Main Menu

Band Saw Blades

Started by Dan Landis, July 09, 2010, 08:48:00 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Dan Landis

Where can I get good band saw blades?  I know there was a post some time back about this, but can't seem to find it.

Shaun

Grizzly sells Timber Wolf brand as well as their house brand. TW blades are very good quality.

Jason Scott

There is a chainsaw/weed eater/leaf blower/lawn mower/saw shop near me that makes blades from stock they have. They will weld one together to match any blade I put on their parts counter. These type stores are common in nearly any local.

kennym

I think I get mine from toolcenter.com,I'll have to look,need to order anyway.

Lennox diemaster seem to last and cut best without going to carbide(don't cut glass tho)
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Apex Predator

I don't cut glass either, but go through lots of blades.  Probably one per ever two bows.  Mainly just for cutting risers, antler, and horn.  I'm gonna have to buy a good carbide blade and try it out.

Specifically, what kind of blade are you using to cut risers with Kenny?
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

2treks

I use the woodslicer and the general bandsaw blades from highland hardware. I have had real good luck with them and get many bows and cuts from each. I only use the wood slicer for lam cutting.
Chuck
C.A.Deshler
United States Navy.
1986-1990


"Our greatest fear should not be of failure but of succeeding at things in life that don't really matter."
~ Francis Chan

Whip

I've had good luck with the blades from Highland as well.  And I need some!  Better go order....
PBS Regular Member
WTA Life Member
In the end, it is not the years in your life that count. It's the life in your years. Abraham Lincoln.

Dan Landis

Thanks guys for the info.  I'm looking to cut some hickory backing strips and my blade is so dull it will barely cut through a pine 2x4 without burning.  I'll check these site and get one ordered soon.

kennym

Here is the blade I like,you can buy 4 of em for the cost of a carbide,but the carbide lasts longer. You do get that new blade cut sensation 4 times tho with these ,only once with carbide.....

http://www.toolcenter.com/BI-METAL_DIEMASTER.html

These won't cut glass tho!! That said,I don't cut glass PERIOD with my bandsaw.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Apex Predator

For risers what do you guys prefer?  How many teeth per inch, and how wide.  I just haven't been able to get that great "sensation" Kenny mentions.  I normally buy 4 TPI 1/2" blades.  Should I be buying the 3 TPI.  I'm thinking of ordering some narrower blades, since I'm not cutting lams yet.
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

sulphur

i have been using timberwolf blades, but i just put a Olson blade that i bought for $13 at woodcraft.  WOW,  totally impressed worked every bit as good or better than the timberwolf for $25 less.  Woodcraft has a website, i highly recommend trying it.
Rumblin, Stumblin, Bumblin

JamesV

I build a lot of kids bows and rip 2" glass with my bandsaw. 18 feet and a new blade is gone. Any suggestions. I use cheap blades $10 at Lowes
Proud supporter of Catch a Dream Foundation
-----------------------------------
When you are having a bad day always remember: Everyone suffers at their own level.

red hill

Kenny, what do you use on glass?  I haven't tried glass yet but plan to.
Stan

kennym

When cutting prebuild,I use an air  cutoff tool with a 1/16" wheel. If I have to cut in the riser throat,I bandsaw close and then hacksaw.

For the shelf and site window  cutout,I use the tablesaw  :scared:  

Repeat passes til all is gone but what you want.....
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

White Oak

Sulpher, I haven't been at this bow building thing very long but have been using Olson blades for years with excellant success. I just cut out a riser the other day and it did a great job through phenolic and all. I use a 1/4" wide X .025 thick @ 6TPI. I paid $13.25 for these blades.
Kenny I wondered about nibbeling out the site window on a table saw but didn't know how the glass would react.I'll be trying it now. Thanks!!
Ed  :campfire:

Dan Landis

Thanks again guys for all the info.  I checked the Olsen blades out on the Woodcraft web site, and found they have a store in Dowingtown, PA.  I'll be visiting my daughter over the weekend and she only lives a few miles from there, so guess where I'll be going.

vanillabear?


Dick in Seattle

I started out cutting the limb shape and windows with a bandsaw, but, since I don't own stock in a blade company, I gave that up!

Nowadays, I belt sand the bow snot off the layup, then drum sand to a nice square blank, probably like most everyone. I put nice new tape on the blank and draft the bow shape onto the tape, then use the round end of the big belt sander to grind real close to my lines.  Goes very fast.  I have to clean up the edges, but I did on the saw, too.

For awhile, I was still cutting in the sight windows with the bandsaw, but the last several I've gone low tech... high quality wood rasps lubricated with a little patience.  

My Olsen bandsaw blades now last very well!   I have two, keep one set up for resawing lamb blanks, the other for riser shaping.
Dick in Seattle

"It ain't how well the bow you shoot shoots, it's how well you shoot the bow you shoot."

traditional beagle

And all along I've thought my band saws were junk, although very expensive. I think I have been using junk blades, from Lowes, think I'll try a better blade.

Robertfishes

last year I bought a 4 tpi carbide blade, I am using it on my 9th bow this week, so far its still sharp and cutting good..I use a belt sander to grind limbs to the line so the only glass I cut is the site windows and rough shaping the riser..my blade was $120

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©