Working Grip Shapes

[Dublin Joe]

I've got my second red oak board bow underway.

It's 72" tip to tip, 1 1/2" wide at the center tapering after midlimb to 5/8" at the nocks.  The thicknesses are 3/4" at the center, tapering to 7/16" at the nocks.

I have no scale yet so its weight will be whatever it ends up being once I reach 29".

Given it's a long bow, red oak, and only 1 1/2" wide, can I shape the width at all to form a grip or should I simply round over the edges?

I'd like to look at working grip shapes in a gallery but nearly all the pics I've found feature glued-on risers.

If any of you could direct me to more info I'd be much obliged.  Jawge, I've read that you like working grips so I'm hoping you'll add your .02.

Joel

[walkabout]

if you left a section of the center untouched, say 5 inches or so, you may be able to thin the width down a little to make it more comfortable, although whether or not it will hold up is really up in the air depending on the quality of grain, etc. if you do end up doing so you can also layer leather to make the grip area more rounded, with the leather getting progressively smaller from bottom to top, rounding it out. my working handle bow uses this grip type, and even though i left it full width the leather really makes it easier to maintain consistent grip. i glued the leather together with superglue around the edges then sanded it until the whole thing was faded into a nice shape, with one piece being on the back of the handle and one on the belly.

[Dublin Joe]

OK, I can now fully draw this bow.



It's braced just over a fistmele which is about 6" from the belly.



There doesn't appear to be any twist.



There's a little more string follow than I would like: 1 3/4".



She slapped me a little but sent arrows just over 100 yards and the grip really needs some work... my hand hurt worse from the edges than my forearm did from the beating.  I didn't notice any hand shock, though, so I'm optimistic.

I'll probably refine the tips/nocks and the transition from midlimb to tip taper for aesthetic reasons, work out the grip, and finish her off with an alcohol stain then seal her up with a wipe on poly.  That is unless any of you warn me in advance about something.  How does red sound?

Joel

[walkabout]

not too bad. from the pics it looks like much of your bend is localised within the first third of the limbs, leaving the outer two thirds a bit stiff. for the handle id just round the edges over to pencil size and then wrap it.

[Dublin Joe]

You're right.  I'd read that leaving the last 6-10" stiffer was a good thing.  Since it's shooting pretty well I thought I'd be done but now I think I'll risk dropping the weight a little for the sake of a better curve.

Would doing so have beneficial consequenses?  Perhaps a longer cast?

[walkabout]

generally i leave the last 5 inches of the tips nonbending so i can take off width later to help ease handshock. if this bow doesnt have any handshock, you dont need to narrow the tips but will need to at least get it bending out to 5 inches. it will help with draw length, as well as give you some more speed from removing the limb mass at the tips. go carefully though, so you dont take too much and lose alot of weight. if you can get them bending like the inner thirds youll be in bussiness for sure, its got the start of a beautiful "D" shape. as far as the set, dont be discouraged, my bend through handle took almost the same amount of set and i was careful as anything during tillering. alot of people swear bows with string follow are sweeter shooters anyway.