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.38 caliber blunts

Started by madness522, February 05, 2007, 12:46:00 PM

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madness522

I was wondering how you guys weighted the .38 cases to match the field point weight you're shooting?  I put a case about a half inch on a shaft I am getting ready to build and it is really nice tight fit. So tight I had to put the case in a shell holder to get it off the shaft.  I am shooting 146gr field points now and the case is a lot lighter than 145gr.  I would hate to build a set of stumping arrows with .38 case heads and then they not shoot like the 145gr. fields tips.  Any ideas?
Barry Clodfelter
TGMM Family of the Bow.

Bowspirit

I prefer to add melted solder to my cases, when it cools, it usually gives me a pretty heavy point...
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shawnee

Lead shot will work, also, and can be melted or not...your preference.
Well, who'da thunk it!

madness522

Barry Clodfelter
TGMM Family of the Bow.

702plmo

I take some old lead decoy weights and cut off small pieces and put in the casing until I have the desired weight.   Once I have the desired weight I hold the casing with some pliers and place the casing over torch.  this will melt the lead.  After it cools I then hotmelt it onto my stumping arrows.  

  Go to a hobby store and buy the metal rods that are used on radio controlled airplane wheels.  They are very flexable.    
 I cut these about 1/2 inch.  I drill two holes in the sides of the casing and glue in the tiny metal rods .   This will make a cheap homemeade judo style point.
No free man shall ever be debarred the use of arms.
Thomas Jefferson
The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government.
Thomas Jefferson

adeeden

1/4 20 washers super glued inside the casing works well. Use the stainless ones there heavier you can buy a bunch of them for $1.00
"I would rather be lucky then good, any day!"

Scott S.

For aluminums, I leave the field point ON and knock the primer out of the .38 case.  The point sticks through the primer just a little.
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Jerry Jeffer

I also put the shell case right over the feild point. I don't knock out the primer. Then I drill through the head and add a pin to keep the arrow from going too far if I miss. Also adds a little weight since I like to be around 150 gr,
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6 POINT

Use 357 mag cases and it gives you a little more room to put lead in the case and still have it fit down on the shaft.

Falk

Drill out the primer and set in a screw - as long as needed - to get the desired weight. This alone will hold the case to the shaft but add some epoxy to play save.
If you dont want the screw showing, drill only the shaft and insert a nail without head or similar piece of metal and glue the case on top.

Wudstix

I use 9mm casings and 125 grain rubber blunts over top.
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BaldingEagle

Adeeden,
Do you get them at hardware stores? Or, are they spcialty washers of some sort?
John
"It is the difficulties of archery that make it so interesting to true archers."
Archery-Badminton Library

BaldingEagle

QuoteOriginally posted by BaldingEagle:
Adeeden,
Do you get them at hardware stores? Or, are they spcialty washers of some sort?
John
"It is the difficulties of archery that make it so interesting to true archers."
Archery-Badminton Library

adeeden

Any hardware store should have them!
"I would rather be lucky then good, any day!"

SCATTERSHOT

If you really want to thump something, try a .358 Winchester case. They weigh 179 grains, and fit perfectly on the end of the shaft.
"Experience is a series of non - fatal mistakes."

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