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Glue

Started by TheFatboy, March 17, 2010, 05:38:00 AM

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TheFatboy

So, I've ordered some combed flax to help reinforce a few weak areas on my upcoming yew branch bows. I was about to order some Titebond, and figured that Titebond III would be the best choice. But I remember reading in TBB1, that hide glue is the best choice for gluing flax and other such fibrous backings.

What would be the best choice? Titebond III or Titebond Hide Glue?
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

TheFatboy

The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

bjansen

Titebond 3, I dont think Titebond's brown bottle of "Hide Glue" is as good as actual Hide glue.

Silent Bear

Titebond hide glue is not waht you want, I would suggest buying some hide glue from 3 rivers or anywhere else that supplies it, the best hide glue that I have used is homeade from sinew scraps and pine pitch
When a man speaks of truth he has nothing to hide. - Silent Bear

When a man moves away from nature his heart becomes hard. - Lakota

When we show our respect for other living things, they respond with respect for us. - Arapaho

frank bullitt

Titebond would be the easiest to get, and should work fine. I have hide glue and would use that, myself. As for the liquid hideglue, it would work fine also, but tends to take alittle longer to dry. Also most places that carry it, don't realize it has a short shelf life, check the date on the bottle!

If I remember right, Jay Massey had wrote you could add like vinegar to speed the drying!

TheFatboy

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I think I will try out the Titebond 3 then!

This is the first time I'm gluing anything to a bow though, so I'm pretty lost, to say the least. I have no idea how to prepare the glue, and all those things.

Should I warm up the glue, dip the flax fibres, squeeze out the excess glue, apply a layer on the bow and comb it out? Or is it not necessary to warm the glue first? Any advice is appreciated right now  :readit:
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

frank bullitt

Andreas, you can thin the glue down some with water, brush it on,maybe give a couple coats to the wood. Then dip the fibers in the same bowl of glue, and do like you mention. Kinda of the way I apply sinew. Should work good!

TheFatboy

That doesn't sound too hard! Thank you Frank  :archer:
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

walkabout

just brush on a thin coat of the glue to the back of the bow first and let it dry to size it, this will help ensure that the wood wont soak up too much moisture in the glue up of the backing material.
Richard

TheFatboy

Sounds logical. I will do that then.

Thanks for the input  :)
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

Tree man

Hide glue makes good, strong, flexible bond.......but it is water soluble. Titebond III makes a good, strong, flexible bond .......and it is WATERPROOF. I'm glad I know how to make hide glue....but very thankful that I can buy and use TBIII. It is BETTER!

frank bullitt

Hey Justin, do you use TB3 for a finish, then?

With hide glue or any glue, I stll use a finish over it. None of them are waterproof! They still will breath.

walkabout

i have to agree, even though titebond says its waterproof it probably does breath a little bit. if you think about it when you glue something up it has to dry on the inside somehow, and the outside edges of glue dry the quickest. so logically the glue probably allows some moisture to escape/ enter, although the bond will still remain strong.
Richard

TheFatboy

I've also been considering cherry bark backing. I have a lot of cherry bark which has dried for some time now. But I guess nothing prevents me from backing one with flax and one with cherry bark  :goldtooth:
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

walkabout

there ya go. im currently working on a dyed burlap backing for my sisters bow, its gonna be purple and black striped. kinda time consuming because i have to dye a few inches at a time with one color, then repeat with the other but im sure shell love the end product. i might have to round up some birch bark to try as a backing some day to see how that works. anyway post some pics when ya get the flax done, i think ive only seen one bow backed with it before.
Richard

TheFatboy

I ain't gonna back in entirely with flax, only reinforce weak spots. Apparently, flax does not stretch very well, so a full flax backing would probably overpower the belly.
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

walkabout

lol my bad. id still be interested in seeing your method though, i posted a topic not long ago about patching bad spots and this is somewhere along those lines.
Richard

TheFatboy

I'll be sure to post pictures of the results. Expect no miracles, I am merely a rookie!
The whole problem with the world is that fools and fanatics are always so certain of themselves, but wiser people so full of doubts.

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