Smooth On for Bamboo or Hick Backed

Started by bigcountry, March 15, 2010, 10:51:00 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

bigcountry

Anyone use smoothon for Bamboo or Hickory backed IPE or Osage bows?  I have some left over that Kanga sent me and don't want it to go to waste.  I have two bows I need to glue up.

Moen

Yes i have.. BBI and BBH`s with no problem. I use 60 grit sanding paper before glue up. I also use West System epoxy, with no failure.
Never believe that you are worthless .... you can always be used as a bad example!

soopernate

I humbly follow in the learned footsteps of those who precede me.

bigcountry

At what temps did you cure em at?

Would URAC be a better choice as far as strength and gap filling?

Would 130F be enough?

Diamondback59

ya it ll work why go to all the trouble tb 3 works just as good and a whole lot easier  brock
yep im a bowaholic,, elkaholic !!!

bigcountry

QuoteOriginally posted by Diamondback59:
ya it ll work why go to all the trouble tb 3 works just as good and a whole lot easier  brock
I have used TBIII twice.  I had glue creep.  I talked to Dean Torges about it, and he said he didn't recommend it for IPE. I know Richard Scaffold uses TBIII and loves it along with other friends.  

Have you ever used Smoothon? What temp did you cure?

Moen

Never believe that you are worthless .... you can always be used as a bad example!

OkKeith

Mark,

My hot box gets about 120 unless the shop gets really cold overnight. I put bows in 8 hours (or over night, whichever) then shut the box off and let everything cool down slowly.

As far as Tightbond goes, it is a little slipperier and can let things move around if the bow is not wraped tight or bound to the form snuggly. If I use TB I go with the TB1.

I read somewhere (may have been written by Torges) that the only difference between TB1, TB2 and TB3 is its waterproofness. The article said that the additives make the glue less strong. It went on to say that if you're gonna put a weatherproof coating on the bow (poly- or the like) waterproof glue is a moot point and why sacrifice glue effectiveness for a waterproof quality you don't really need. Besides, the TB1 is usually cheaper.

I use the Smooth-on because I can doulble the Part-A to Part-B and get a little more heat resistantance for when I shoot in the 110 degrees of an Oklahoma summer. May not matter but haven't had one come apart yet.

Used to use Urac, but I'm not big on the glue line it leaves. May have been my own lack of skill (probably), but using the toothing plane left tooth markes at the end of riser laminations that I could never figure out how to get rid of. The Smooth-on seems as fool proof as anything. Then again you know how ingenious us fools can be.

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

bigcountry

Great information Keith.  I apprecate it.

razorback

Would love to hear anymore info on the TB products. I have those and not the epoxies so if they can be used for glue-ups  that would be great. Can anyone coroborate the the great info OkKeith posted above. I always have trouble trusting a single source for information, those pesky teachers ruined it for me  :)
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

kiltedcelt

Iive  used Smooth-On for bamboo/ipe and it worked just fine. I always wipe the ipe down with denatured alcohol right before the glue up and I prep my bamboo by grooving the gluing surface with a sharp-toothed jigsaw blade. I glue my blanks up at 150-F for 6 hours. In the debate about TB versus Smooth-On, I've heard that TB will work just as well in wood-to-wood as Smooth-On but ONLY if the mating surfaces are completely and totally flat. Smooth-On is better if you have any irregularities between the two mating surfaces. I also use Smooth-On to glue on field points and to glue on nock overlays. In both of those instances I don't cook it, but just let it cure for a full 24 hours before stressing the joint.

OkKeith

Tony,

Take a look at this link. About as excellent an article regarding glues for bow making as you will ever find (my opinion, other's as well I bet). Written by the "Dean" of bowmaking (hope he doesn't mind the pun).

http://www.bowyersedge.com/glue.html

This is where I read the info about Tightbond.

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

razorback

Thanks OKKieth,
I will check that out. I hope you don't think I was doubting you, just looking for multiple sources.
Tony
Keep the wind in your face and the sun at your back.

bigcountry

Thanks OKkieth.  I see Dean has addressed Smoothon also.

OkKeith

Tony,
No problem. "Crede sed proba"... Trust, but verify.

Mark,
Sure thing. Good luck with the bow build.

OkKeith
In a moment of decision the best thing you can do is the right thing. The worst thing you can do is nothing.
Theodore Roosevelt

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©