I am finally gonna do it and got some ??

Started by mwmwmb, June 22, 2009, 10:20:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

mwmwmb

Okay, I am gonna start with a straight long bow and was thinking of keeping it kinda simple (Black glass and maple cores).

I am gonna do a band form like Apex, It looks like from the build alongs that folks just use a 2x8 screwed to another in L shape is that correct?  Also, do you need anthing on top of that before the lams like on the mdf forms with the thin metal strip. I know a pressure strip on top of lams but what about under?

Any tips on getting the fades paper thin?

i will probably add some more questions tommorow.

Thanks to all the guys on here with the how to's and build alongs and general help.
thanks bjansen for letting me borrow the binghams dvd

mwmwmb

i will be billing the form this week and make an order from kenny later this week.

bjansen

Your welcome sir.  Check out some of Apex's builds, he used a rounded strip on the top like to keep the pressure even on the lams (rather than have higher preasure on the edges).

As for the fades, put a block behind the riser and make sure you sand it flat and even on both sides.  Do a couple dry fits to see how the lams are mating up with your riser when you clamp it down.  I usually leave the fades 1/32 or so until the final fit, then grind them paper thin by just lightly touching it to the sander. Then one final dry fit and you should be good to go.  

Also, when building that form, I have been putting strips of rubber or cork on it too (cork being the make your own gasket cork rolls you get from autozone), which I think helps even out the pressure when clamped down.

Good luck

Apex Predator

I glue a piece of thin aluminum to the form to even out the minute dips and bumps, and then glue a thin piece of rubber over that.  

For the fades, you want to use a "squared to your sander" piece of wood as a backing.  It's easier to get them thin if your sander is running off the end of the fades, when they start to get thin.  You have to keep your piece moving, and finish with light sanding pressure towards the end.  It helps to have a smooth surface under your work piece, so that you can move it smoothly, without hitches and hangups, which cause dips in your fades.
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

dutchwarbow

marty, what type of adhesive do you use for glueing the aluminium/rubber ?

Nick
in the old days religion had it's use to keep nations together. Today, religion tears nations apart.

Nick

Apex Predator

I use contact cement.  I was worried about it in the heat,but it's all clamped together while in the oven.  Never had a problem with it.
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

mwmwmb

Thanks guys,

Also, is there a minium width for a cut to center on around 50lb bow?

Apex Predator

I wouldn't worry about cutting it to center.  All my straight longbows are cut to within 1/8" of center.  It really depends on what your riser is constructed of.  I made one out of osage with no laminations and I could feel it flex ever so lightly.  Every one since then has been laminated in one form or another, and I have never had another flex.
I didn't claw my way to the top of the food chain to eat vegetables!

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©