Tip and riser overlays?

Started by Canadabowyer, January 25, 2009, 12:55:00 PM

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Canadabowyer

Any one have a good method of applying and feather sanding overlays?I can do it but I worry that I may be weakening the back fiberglass by sanding too much to get a nice feathered edge on the overlay.  Bob
"non illegitimus carborundum est"

Pat B

Pre-shape the overlay before you glue them down, at least the transition area where they blend into the limb or handle surface.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!
TGMM Family of the Bow

kennym

How you been Bob?

Someone said to put a pc of clear glass under the fade lumber,but I haven't tried it.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Glenn Newell

I do as Kenny said, I glue a picec of clear glass sometimes two under the overlay first, the effect is real good, makes the overlay look as though it is floating on the limb.
Bob I just apply tape where the overlay ends so I can see that I am not filing and sanding into the limb glass when shaping the overlay and just remove the tape when using the fine sandpaper to finish...Glenn...

bjansen

That is a great tip..one piece of glass under the first overlay....i always wondered how you guys made thos tip overlays look like that...Thanks

Trux Turning

If you bevel the end of the tip overlay and wipe off the squeeze out after clamping it makes it much easier to feather them in. I just wipe off the excess with my finger. You can do the same with overlays on the front or back of the riser also.

Canadabowyer

Thanks for all the great ideas.Clear glass would be really cool and the tape idea makes so much sense I can't believe I didn't think of it????
Ken, I am good, going to need some wood soon, I'll let you know when. Bob
"non illegitimus carborundum est"

Glenn Newell

No harm in keeping the overlay longer as well. I make mine 2" long as the angle into the glass on the limb is not as abrupt and it is a lot asier to file and sand...Glenn...

Holm-Made

Your not going to sand into the glass enough to weaken it, unless you use really thin glass or really go to town.  Even by pretapering it before glueing you still have to file and sand it quite a bit to get that nice blend we all like.  There is little pressure on the limbs at that point of the bow anyway.  Most of the pressure in a drawn bow is at the fadeouts.
I have put a piece of clear glass under the overlays several times and it does look nice but you still have to blend it in to the full length glass.  I had a couple bows I built where I used the clear glass first layer and the glass was streaky as some of it is.  The streaks were really magnified by having the full length clear glass under it.  Something to think about.
The two tips on the right have the clear glass as first layer.  Chad

kennym

Hmmm,I like the 2 on the left better.Nice job on the tips too.
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Canadabowyer

Thanks Chad, that helps clear it up for me. Your tips are really nice. Is that black glass or micarta?
"non illegitimus carborundum est"


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