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INFO: Trad Archery for Bowhunters



10" skil miter blades

Started by Wingless Arrow, January 16, 2012, 05:42:00 PM

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Wingless Arrow

So i found some 10" carbide teeth skil saw blades laying around, and my miter saw is 12". haha. so i guess i have some knife material. i was wondering if anyone had an idea of what type of steel they are made out of. and if you don't, what would be the best method to heat treating a mystery steel?

thanks,

JL
You see I'm against hunting, in fact I'm a hunt saboteur. I go out the night before and shoot the fox.
-Tim Vine

kbaknife

Those are not any good for knives at all. The only purpose of the round saw blade is to hold the carbide teeth! The body of the saw blade could be any combination of worthless materials.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

Wingless Arrow

is this problem specific to carbide teeth saws, or skil brands? because i've seen a bunch of knives made from old saw blades.
You see I'm against hunting, in fact I'm a hunt saboteur. I go out the night before and shoot the fox.
-Tim Vine

GrayRhino

I think the problem is with carbide tipped blades.  Since the carbide tips, not the actual steel blade, are doing the cutting, the steel can be, and is likely of, a lower quality.
God  now commandeth all men everywhere to repent.  Acts 17:30

"All bowhunting trips are good,  some are just real good!"  Bill Baker

"We're all trophy hunters...until something else comes along."  Glenn St. Charles

kbaknife

Ryan said it very well.
And even on some saw blades that don't have carbide teeth, especially newer ones, only the final section away from the center that contains the teeth is hard. It's a two part affair, with the teeth section being welded to a worthless center core.
Just think, considering the $$ involved and the necessity of companies to save money, why would they make a saw blade with hardenable, martensitic steel throughout the entire body of the saw blade, which is expensive, when only the working portion needs to hold an edge?
Usually when you see knives made from saw blades it's either because the knife maker didn't know what he was doing, or, it was from an OLDER saw blade that was verifiable as being L6 or something close, which does make a heck of a knife when properly heat treated.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

James Oertel

most carbide tipped blades are L-6   it does not hold an edge or harden evenly.
life is too short,enjoy it !!!

Lin Rhea

James, I am not one to argue, but L-6 is a fine knife blade steel. It is. In addition to that, most Carbide tipped saw blades are not good for making good knife blades, but it's not because it's L-6, but because it probably is not L-6. There is some confusion about saw blades. They are not all the same. L-6 was a common steel used for large circular sawmill blades and may still be used, but your common everyday circular saw blade from the Depot aint L-6 steel and aint good knife blade steel.

I only step in here at this point to offer clarification, not to be offensive.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

kbaknife

L-6 is a fantastic blade steel.
Deep hardening and about the same nickel content of 15N20, is used regularly in Damascus for contrast with O1 because it has about the same Carbon content.
L6 will cut 'till the sun goes down.
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

Wingless Arrow

Thanks for the response guys. Well I'm sure I'll find some other use for it. Looks like I'm back to the drawing board for good materials.
You see I'm against hunting, in fact I'm a hunt saboteur. I go out the night before and shoot the fox.
-Tim Vine

Lin Rhea

John,
     Spring steel is a good blade material. I have used some "drops" off of new spring cut offs from a local spring manufacturer. I can forge them down to blade sized pieces. If you dont forge, ask around for buggy springs or something like that. Get the word out and you'll be suprised what shows up.
      If you find an old antique sawmill blade, without carbide teeth, it should make a blade that is servicable.
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

Wingless Arrow

thanks Lin, ill definitely be looking around. i think for now ill just order a nice blank, what would be the best steel, if i can choose from any type?
You see I'm against hunting, in fact I'm a hunt saboteur. I go out the night before and shoot the fox.
-Tim Vine

gables

1080-1084 are often recommended for new knifemakers because the heat treat can be simple and yield a great blade. 5160 can also be a great first steel to work with.
"Art is thoughtful workmanship." W.R. Lethaby

Wingless Arrow

Thank you, i will have to look into those kinds.
You see I'm against hunting, in fact I'm a hunt saboteur. I go out the night before and shoot the fox.
-Tim Vine

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