A billet of Damascus

[Lin Rhea]

I recently worked up a billet of damascus and took a few pictures along the way. Actually, Wyatt did the photography. It seems I am making a lot these days and I am thankful for my forge, the one where I leaned my arm.

I will describe the billet and then show a few progress shots. The billet starts with 9 pieces of 1/4 inch 1084 5 inches long X 1 1/2 inches wide. In between these is 3 layers of 15N20 X about 1/16 inch for a bright line.

 

In the above photo, the lowest layer of 1084 is left long to help weld to the handle.

Grinding the edges even. Some were sticking out a little.

 

Coming up to heat to where the flux will melt.

 

Bumping the billet to set the weld. I do this twice before moving the steel much.



Then I can start drawing it out.

 

[Roughcountry]

Thanks for taking the time Lin, gonna enjoy following along.

[rover brewer]

love it,,exciteing get the steel that hot and slamming it together sparks flying.Would have loved to be there,can't wait to see the finished product.

[akaboomer]

I would love to have been there to watch the process. I learn more every time I get to watch you work on a project. Thanks again for taking the time to help some of us.  

Chris

[Bobby Urban]

So you get it hot and then pour on your flux?  What are you fluxing with?  I have made a few out of band saw blades and binding straps but most everything I do is trial and error.  Love to learn from the pros.  I was told that I should wait for the steel to look like it is sweating before I set my weld.  Is this correct?  How big is your power hammer?  I have always set my weld by hand and then gone to the hammer to move the steel but I think I will try using the hammer to set the weld.  

Very cool Mr. Rhea - thanks

[Lin Rhea]

Bobby,
       I use borax for flux, although I am soaking my billet (cold) in kerosene before I start. I view the weld as a separate step, so I treat it as such, before I start the actual drawing of the bar. It has to get hot and from what you describe, it aint hot enough. The flux needs to dance around, not just sweat. I see three stages of the flux besides it merely melting. Sweating, dancing, and foaming. I take mine out to weld when it just starts foaming. Not a minute more. The weld needs to be a dead blow, more of a press that's why I use my press to make the weld. Of course you can use a hammer, but you'll have to just bump it with a heavy hammer and not smack it with your regular forging hammer.

[Bobby Urban]

Thank you - that helps a lot.  Looking forward to see the blade(s) that come from your billet.

[Lin Rhea]

I have a blade rough ground and ready to heat treat, but have no pictures yet. The damascus pattern is nice and the blade style is from an antique bowie made in Sheffield, England. I'll try to take a few shots along the way. There's enough left in the billet for another large blade.

[JMR]

Great pics thanks for sharing your time and expertise with us

[Idahomike251]

Lin, If possible, I would like to see some more pics of the steps. It's really great.  Mike O.

[Kevin Evans]

Nice work Lin.
Do you parically cut and fold or completely
cut it in pieces and restack?

[Doug Campbell]

Looks like you were "rounding" the billet out Lin, what's the end pattern your aiming for?

[Lin Rhea]

I like to cut and re-stack. It gives me a chance to grind it clean and to lightly etch the ends of the pieces. This helps me to orient them in the stack.

I was hammering the corners in in order to bow the layers inward with a "W" pattern in mind. It's what I call a "laddered W".

I have that billet finished. I'll try to photo some of the next one in later stages Mike. The blade that I am working on from this billet will be ready to photo soon and I'll add shots as I go along. Thanks

[Bodork]

I'd like to see more pictures as well. I've heard the process before but have never seen it. Way cool!  
By the way, that picture of you doing the grinding looks incredible. Something about the way the light is reflecting off of you and the clarity makes it look like a painting or something. I can't really describe it, but it looks like it should be on the cover of a magazine or something.  Mike

[tippit]

Lin,
This is a new game for me as I'm just starting to do my own damascus and know very little.

1) How does this stacking with 1/4 inch 1084 & three layers of 15n20 compare in pattern to stacking 1/8 inch 1084 & one layer 0f 15n20?

2) What are the differences in color (dark/bright) using 1080 or 1095 with 15n20?

[Lin Rhea]

Jeff, My 15N20 is about 1/16 thick, so I was trying to get the ratio a little closer to even. Your ratio is 1/2 to 1 while mine is 3/4 to 1, so depending on the intended pattern, yours and mine will not look much different. If I used one layer of 15N20 in between my 1/4 inch 1084, that would be 1/4 to 1 ratio and it would look somewhat different from that alone.

As for the color,you would think that all 10 series steels would have the same look, but it seems that 1084 is darker, but I have not done controlled comparisons. I believe your etch and finish has a lot to do with your contrast and over all look.

[OconeeDan]

Thank you for this Lin, great post.
Dan