Home Grown Hunting Equipment for 2006/07 (UPDATE - Nov. 5th, 2006)

[Osagetree]

Using a sharp pair of siccors I cut out the outline drawn skin.

 

This cut out will be the backing. I got as much pattern in it that I could get out og the skin.

 

Starting in the middle of the handle, I run a small bead of titebond wood glue down one limb.

 

And then use my fingers to spread it out and remove excess glue. The glue not need be that thick. To thick and it will make the backing lumpy when dry due to the wrapping it down.

 

Then lay the skin on the glue right side up and smooth it out.

 

After it's all smoothed out I wrap it with an ace bandage starting at the handle and working out towards the limbs.

 

 

[Osagetree]

Flipping the bow around I do the other limb the same way.

 

When I get it all wrapped up, I lay it outside to dry for a few hours or even overnight if I aint in a rush.

 

 

[Eric Krewson]

A couple of tips on applying snake skins. If you buy some of those cheap, metal handle glue brushes(1/2") you can get a really even coat of glue on the bow. If you put a similar thin coat on the skin before you put it on the bow you won't need the ace bandages. Lay the skin on, adjust the pattern to fit the bow and work any excess glue and bubbles to the edge of the skin with your thumbs.It takes me about 1/2 hr to smooth the skins out just the way I like them but the end result is a perfect fit. After the skins have dried for about an hour I trim the excess skin from the sides of the bow. After the skins dry for a couple of days I remove the scales and brush on a thin coat of super glue with one of my metal handle glue brushes and let it dry for a couple of hours then sand the skins with 600 grit wet or dry sand paper. Sure makes a nice smooth finish with no projections.

Whenever I mention these glue brushes to people they give me a quizzical look so here is a picture. Unbeatable for applying urac for backing also.

[Shakes.602]

A MILLION and One Ways to Use a Good Ol' Ace Bandage!! Those I have a Bunch of, from wearing them about all the time years ago. Who'da Thunk It.
 This Fine Forum and Reading the "Bowyers Bible #1" just Amazes Me to No End!!!
  Thanks ALL of You for Sharing

[Osagetree]

Thanks Eric, I do use the super glue to finish up and if I were not using such a long skin I would have applied the glue to the skin as well as the back of the bow. It was easier this way with the longer skin,,, I hate glue and it hates me,, I get it all over the place even on short skins. I do appreciate your input though,, you are one of the talents on tradgang that I spoke of earlier in the thread!

After a couple hours drying outside in the sun, I unwrapped the ace bandages. The extra skin is hanging over the edges and on the overlays.

 

I use a fine small file to remove the excess skin at the edges of the limbs. Always working/filing from the skin to the bow as not to pull off the freshly glued skin.

 

Once the edges are clean it's time to get it off of the overlays.

 

I trim the outline of the overlay with a pocket knife my Dad gave me years ago,, I sure miss him!

 

Then the skin is easily peeled off the overlay. This makes a nice fit between skin and antler overlay.

 

Leaving me with some clean edges!

 

A real snake in the grass,,,

 

[Osagetree]

Taking shipping tape, because that's all I got, I apply it directly to the skin backing with the adhesive side down. Once it makes total contact, I remove it slowly and the loose scales on the skin come right off sticking to the tape. I repeat this until no more scales are seen on the tape.


 

I'll let the backing dry all evening and night before I try to ressume the tillering. bending it before the skin and glue complety dry out may cause the backing to come loose.

Here is the profile of the bow on the tiller tree and the pre streached string hanging there that I made for the bow today.

 

[Osagetree]

I got stupid and let this bow go bad   :mad:  


In this pic I had it tillered to about brace.



This ain't good!

I put on a short string and when I put it back on the tiller tree and went another couple inches on the draw, one limb gave and hinged before I new it happened. I could not believe it! When I examined the hinge area there were three large compression fractures.





Hinge shot at brace.



Dang this is really embarassing    

You guy's are watching this as I go along so you get what really happens if you go to fast or you ain't paying attention you screw up alot of work. Two bows down the drain on this thread and season is coming quick.

Well I hope the old saying is true,,, you know "Third time is a charm"

[Lewis Brookshire III]

Keep your head up man, it will work out. This is a great thead by the way!!!!

[TimBow2]

"you win some you lose some" and this is a GREAT THREAD !!!!!!!!! really enjoyed reading it.  

[longbowhntr]

Oh man I hate to see that happen, but bow building must go on.

Show us a picture of the next stave your going to work.

I have really enjoyed this thread from the start.

Joseph, sir, you will never know how "many" and "much" you have inspired with this thread.

Chin up and keep this show going. Third time...buddy!!!

David

[Osagetree]

                       

[Osagetree]

[Lewis Brookshire III]

There is still hope!

[Luke Vander Vennen]

http://www.bowyersedge.com/patch.html
Would that help at all?? I think it might be too far gone, but you obviously have a better idea with the bow in your hands. That is a fairly nasty hinge going on there, ouch, really sorry to hear about that  :(  

If it was me I'd go with the locust. If you really don't that bow to fail it might not be very good to be playing around with those knots.

Good luck!!!!


P.S. Is it possible that it hinged because the bow absorbed some of the moisture from the glue? Whenever you apply glue it's good to let it cure for a few more days before bending it.

[kennym]

Dang it!!  My hats still off to ya OT.

[Frenchymanny]

Osage, Sir,

There is fantastic work there so do not give up!

Your buddy up north,

Frenchymanny

[Osagetree]

Yeah, I did intend to wait a day or so before resuming tillering. But, After coming in and reading more on the Tradgang I was pumped up and could not wait, so I put it back on the tree and gooffed it up.

Luke may be right, the moistier may have assisted in its demise, but more than likely it was my fualt though.

[knife river]

You had a bit of nasty luck, but I'm learning tons!  Success breeds confidence, but not always a lot of knowledge.  Most knowledge (and character) comes from mistakes.  Hang in there, Osage!  This is the first thread I look for every day!!!  :D

[Osagetree]

I have decided  to start on the locust as Luke suggested.

Stripped the bark
 

Trimmed the edges
 

Cut off the bad end and to length
 

Chased the ring
 

Finished stave
 

Narly knot in one of the fade areas
 

The knot starts one top of back side and angles through and out the opposite belly side.
 

I do not like this a bit. So, I am going through the whole wood pile until I find a suitable stave.

 

I am down to the last of the good wood where I gather my logs for bow making. So, it is now showing up in the wood I have to work with. In the area I cut my wood, I cut the last two good tree's this past winter, so I will have to start looking for a new supply to cut this winter.

The two logs on top of the rack are the ones I cut in January of last winter. I will split them soon, and they will be ready for me to work in August of 2007. So, that gives my wood about 1 year and 8 or 9 months to dry.

I am waisting time, so I'll get to work on that pile of twisted osage and black locust. I'll keep you all updated as I progress!

[Luke Vander Vennen]

how much leeway do you have in laying out the bow? If you have a little bit extra length and can weasel that knot into the handle, or even farther into the fade, I would try and use that piece. I think if you leave it thick, you might be able to get away with it. Another pic or two of the know might help.