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Tuning the Easton 2117 aluminum shaft

Started by Ssamac, October 20, 2009, 11:43:00 PM

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Ssamac

Hi guys. How's the hunting?
I'm bareshaft tuning some Easton 2117 aluminum shafts from a Red Wing Hunter 50#. I cut them to 29" and put 125 grain points on them. They fly ok but stick into the target pointing left a bit. I'm shooting about 30 steps. They do the same at 10 and 20 steps. OK so if I put lighter tips they should point left even more. If I cut them down they will get stiffer and point left more. What can I do to get them sticking straight? I can't believe that a 2117 shaft is too stiff for a 50# bow. BTW I have a feather rest and a plain flat arrow plate.
Would appreciate any help.
Thanks
sam  :banghead:    :banghead:

shick

Sam, if I were shooting a 50# bow, a 2117 would be way to stiff for me and my style. I would try my trusted 2018/2115's or even a 2016.  Anywy, I would try a lighter spine just to see.  Hope this helps.......................Shick
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moebow

Yep!  My 50# bows really like 1916/2016 arrows.  Cut 30" and drawn to 29.5, 125 grain points.  2117s like my 60-65# bows.  For my money, 2117s are WAAAAAY too stiff for 50#.

Seems that a lot of folks are really trying to get 2117s to work in any bow -- what's the attraction of 2117s anyway???
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NJWoodsman

2217's with 125 gr. work great with my 55# Samick recurve with elevated rest. 2018's worked well on a 50# "Quarf" bow I had.

I have a 45# 58" R/W Hunter. I've tried to tune it shooting off the shelf, but I got better results with an elevated rest.

Ssamac

Thanks guys. Can anyone use a dozen 2117 Easton shafts camo with the nocks installed and with the inserts. 6 are cut to 29", 3 have the inserts installed and I have the other 9 new inserts for when they get tuned. I paid 49.99 + shipping from Cabelas. (I had a gift certificate) I shot the 3 with inserts about 6 times to get the above results and figured I was overspined with nowhere to go. Don't use Cabelas arrow chart, btw.  Make me an offer and then I'll buy some 2016s and start again, hopefully with better results.
Thanks
sam

Curtiss Cardinal

2117s are the most peculiar aluminum shafts I've ever shot. I shoot 30" arrows. I use 175 grain field points. They are too stiff for 55# too weak for 65# at least with my shooting style.Other people I know shoot them out of much heavier bows.
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Bowferd

Sam,
I had trouble tuning some old 2117's to the RWH, that I shot out of my old Quillian 50-55# longbows.
I had better luck when shooting 250 gr up front.
Best luck with GT 5575's cut to 30" with 100 gr brass inserts and 175 to 200 field points.
Fred
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reddogge

I don't know.  I shot a deer last year with one of my old 2117s with a 43# bow.  I have shot them out of 45# and 50# bows and they fly fine.  I'm hunting with wood this year but I have a few done up in Judo points and I still shoot them.  BTW 125 gr. fieldpoints, judos, broadheads and 29"L.
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Ssamac

Thanks guys. Some of the issue I think is that the Red Wing Hunter is not center shot.

sam

shakey slim

i added 75 grains to frt / shoot 2117 from 55# DAMON/HOWAT 145 GRAIN BEAR BROAD HEAD  seem to work great for my 28 inch draw / 5 inch right fletch off shelf / true weight is 57#
i never regretted a day in the woods/ a hippie taught me to hunt

Ssamac

Thanks Slim
What was total weight of the point +75?

sam

shakeyslim

a hippie taught me to hunt
i left 1971 way back in 1971

ishoot4thrills

QuoteOriginally posted by Ssamac:
Thanks guys. Some of the issue I think is that the Red Wing Hunter is not center shot.

sam
Do you mean "not center shot" or just "not cut to center"? "Center shot" would mean it's cut a ways past center and "cut to center" means it's just cut to center and then stopped there. Some are cut a tad past center but I don't know of many trad bows that are true "center shot". Although many modern day wheel bows are truly center shot.
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