Issues with Natural feathers to Aluminum

[beemann]

Wipe with Acetone and fletch with Saunders NPV.  I would stop sanding.  I don't have any problems. 

[Bruce M]

Just a follow up   
Seems as though the Fletch Tite does the trick for me. When I have an errand shot or I hit the area of the target that is shot out it used to just pop the feather off, actually I could just softly push against the feather and it used to pop off.
Now I haven't had any feathers "pop" off but this morning I had an errand shot and it had a glancing blow to the feather. The base of the feather stayed attached to the shaft but the feather barbules were striped from their base with that white feather base still attached to the shaft.
So I am now a fan of Fletch tite, Thanks for the help guys/gals.

On edit; My routine is just clean with acetone, no sanding, apply Fletch tite, spread it with a tooth pick and apply it to the shaft... Wait 5 mins. in clamp, put it in the rack for 48 hours.

[M60gunner]

Good to hear you resolved the problem. At the price of feathers these days one doesn't need any frustrations like you had

[Lori]

I asked. "Acetone with a clean rag till they squeak, then fletch tape, it's easy and fast"

[Benoli]

Another vote for Saunders NPV. I use it for fletching direct to clean shafts and over cresting. I crest using Testors then a couple coats of Minwax semi-gloss poly. Never had a problem.

[trad_bowhunter1965]

I don't shoot aluminum but but I have used Saunders NPV on carbon and wood with no problems.

[Howitser]

I prep my shafts by spraying some Brakekleen on a paper towel and rub down the shafts good.
When dry I use fletch-tite on the feathers. Never had a prob.

[Wheels2]

I am another vote for NPV.
Holds really well and remains pliable.
Fletch-Rite seems to have a life span once you open it regardless of the amount that you use.
If I am in a hurry I add a tiny drop of supeglue at the ends of the fletching.