band-saw blades

gringol · January 12, 2012, 05:46:00 PM

I'm sure there are lots of strong opinions on this, so this may get interesting...

I just got a new band-saw and I'd like to hear your thoughts on a good type/brand of blade. I know very little about band-saws so don't hold back, even if it seems obvious to you.

Thanks in advance.

John Scifres · January 12, 2012, 06:51:00 PM

Get a copy of Mark Diginske's book "Tuning a Bandsaw". Buy Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery.

Living_waters · January 12, 2012, 07:15:00 PM

Olson makes a pro series blade, decent blades for the money and they can be sharpened. You can find video on you tube on how to sharpen correctly. Learning to sharpen a blade can save a bundle of money and assures you always have a sharp saw.

PEARL DRUMS · January 12, 2012, 07:16:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by John Scifres:
Get a copy of Mark Diginske's book "Tuning a Bandsaw". Buy Timberwolf blades from Suffolk Machinery.

Yup..

Crooked Stic · January 12, 2012, 08:51:00 PM

I have learned for what we do with a bandsaw all a person really needs is Bi-metal blades. I use 1/2 and 1/4 blades. The 1/2 is a 6-10 variable pitch. I resaw my lam stock against the fence. These blades are thick enough to keep down most of the wobble and if not forced will give a smooth cut. The 1/4 is used for ruff cutting risers etc. where cuves a concerned. Usaly 6 TPI
Them when they show some wear use them to cut limb tapers. Enough glass cutting will tell when it is time to scrap the blade. $21 apiece.
And yes keep your saw tuned.

Tom Leemans · January 13, 2012, 09:21:00 AM

What John said X3. There's an online article on tuning a bandsaw on the Suffolk site.

stringstretcher · January 13, 2012, 09:41:00 AM

I have looked on the site and can not find the article on tuning a bandsaw?

Tom Leemans · January 13, 2012, 10:15:00 AM

Read all of these
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/six-rules-of-sawing/
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/troubleshooting/
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/did-you-know/

John Scifres · January 13, 2012, 12:56:00 PM

It's actually "Duginske" not "Diginske". I fatfingered that one. And it's called "Band Saw Handbook". Here it is on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Band-Saw-Handbook-Mark-Duginske/dp/B005B1EC6Q/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_1/184-4005664-4273711 but I have found it at my library too.

PEARL DRUMS · January 13, 2012, 01:06:00 PM

I roughed out several self bows with 4 tpi blades and have come to the conclusion I prefer 10 tpi for the same job. Its a smoother cut and easier to control for me. Im not sure what your using your new saw for.

2treks · January 13, 2012, 02:56:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by John Scifres:
It's actually "Duginske" not "Diginske". I fatfingered that one. And it's called "Band Saw Handbook". Here it is on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/Band-Saw-Handbook-Mark-Duginske/dp/B005B1EC6Q/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpi_1/184-4005664-4273711 but I have found it at my library too.

I have the DVD as well John, Good info.

gringol · January 14, 2012, 10:06:00 AM

thanks for the tips, guys. Right now I have a 4 tpi 1/2" blade. Seems to be fine for rough cuts, but I'm going to try an 8 tpi blade...

RomeoWhiskey · January 17, 2012, 12:22:00 PM

http://www.grizzly.com/products/93-1-2-X-3-8-X-025-X-10-Raker-Blade/H8517

I've got a Grizzly 14' bandsaw and use Timberwolf 3/8" 10 TPI blades. I started off with 1/2" blades at 4 TPI and found that while there was a little more stability with resawing the 3/8" 10 TPI gives me a cleaner cut, resaws just fine, and give me much better control and tighter turns when free handing.

RW