board bow question

[redneckrampage]

im thinking of building my first board bow, i have a friend whos a carpenter and started asking if the wood is to be quartersawn or flatcut, im guessing quarter sawn am i correct, and would ash work for a board bow along with red oak, thanks for any input
steve

[bowur]

ya definitely that would work. Ive used a lot of quartersawn ash and it works really good. It would be better than red oak. Just make sure its white ash.

[George Tsoukalas]

All cuts work. But must be straight grained. I have to go be back later with more info. Here's my site. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/

[George Tsoukalas]

Are you still here?    Jawge

[ddtbishop]

George - I am having a difficult time finding straight grained hickory.  Do you know of a good supplier?  Thanks.  ddtbishop

[Loren Holland]

Ditto, other than 3 rivers, pine hollow, rudder bows, etc what do you do.  I have had a local lumber yard cut "hickory backings" for me (but i suspect they were really pecan, so i haven't used it for a bow yet)...i found a hickory board in the cabinetry section at Lowes (not in the lumber section, they will tell you they don't carry it.) however it blew up on me  right before i was about to transition to the short string. (i think because it was too dry, and i don't have a moisture meter)

[Roy from Pa]

George, you say all cuts work. I assume you are talking about backing the board with something? How could a flat sawn board work without coming apart if not backed?

[George Tsoukalas]

Roy, with plane sawn and rift sawn. I allow 2 run outs per limb for a 50-55# bow. That's without a backing. You can have more with a backing. I look at the edge grain but for these  2 cuts you can also look at the face to asses the grain suitability. For 1/4 sawn you really need to look at the edge grain.. For 1/4 sawn there can be no run outs at all or she'll break on you. But all cuts make bows. dd, regarding hickory boards I would only buy from bowyers if I were buying  online. Local lumberyards are good sources  as long they let you pick through the stacks. Red oak is a good bow wood. Good in board form too. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Roy, think of it as yes the grain is violated but it's violated equally. Very similar to decrowning a log stave, As long as they bowyer faithfully follows dips in the grain the job is good. I don't advocate decrowning anything though. Jawge

[Roy from Pa]

George, I am confused here. I'm thinking in terms of when using a real log stave, you take the back of the bow down to 1 single growth ring. If you violate a growth ring and make the bow anyway, the back of the bow will prolly come apart there, correct?

So how could a person make a bow with a flat sawn board? There have to be numorous sections where there are violations of growth rings. Help, LOL Roy

[Silent Bear]

Roy, taking the bow down to 1 single growth ring is not necessary to making a durable bow it just adds extra insurance for making a high poundage bow, the wood can still be violated and make a very good bow

[Roy from Pa]

Thanks Bear, all these years I was under the impression that the back of the bow had to be 1 single growth ring. Tell's ya how much I know, LOL.

[George Tsoukalas]

All the rings are violated equally provided the grain is straight tip to tip on a board. On a log stave, if you nick the back you'e created that one weak spot. Jawge

[Roy from Pa]

Ok thanks George, I got what mean now, Roy

[ddtbishop]

George and others - thanks for the comments and replys.  ddtbishop.

[Maxximusgrind]

My first good hunting bow (that I made)was lumberyard ash.I think I got lucky on how it worked out.It pulled 63@28".It stacked at full draw,but I left it at that because I didnt want to loose any weight.and didnt back it because I wanted to see how long it would hold.After about 3 and a half years it developed a crack from the stacking,But it was a great time while it lasted.