Mulberry Selfbow ?

[longbowhntr]

I was recently gifted a mulberry "fence post" (that's what he called it) that was cut about 5-6 years ago and stored in the dry for all that time.It was wide enough that I split it again and got 2  staves. One is 3" wide and about 6" deep including about 1" of sap wood, the other is 4" wide and same depth.

I have never worked with mulberry before and need a starting point for layout. I did get a look at one at OJAM this year that about blew my mind, it was so thick that I thought it had to be a 100plus pound bow when I first saw it. I thought it was osage. If I remember right I think I was told it was about 40lbs.

Where to start? How wide, long and deep and what design. I would like to get about 50-55lbs at 26". Also do you think these are deep enough to maybe get a belly split off them?

Thanks David

[arrowslinger22]

Having just finished one yesterday, here's what I can tell you.  I'd go at least 2" wide if you can and 66" long.  For that weight, I would expect it might be .75 or more.  Crazy.  Mine is 1.75 wide and 62 and came in at 30 @28.  It's still about .5 to Someone told me "go wider than osage" and they were certainly correct.  The stuff was not very dense and was more like green ash than osage.  I have a bunch of it, so I hope the rest is better.

[RAU]

Ive not tried it yet but I've been meaning to.Theres a nice straight tree on the neighbors land he said I can cut.

Heres a link to somm good stuff

http://www.murraygaskins.com/mulberry.html

[ozarkcherrybow1]

I just finished one up myself. It is one that I started during the bowyers challenge. 60" ntn, 1 3/4 at the fades out to almost mid limb and 1/2" at the nock. This bow was based on the design from "hunting the osage bow". It came in at 55lbs at 28". My other mulberry, that I have been shooting for the last 3 years, is 66" and 57 lbs, using the same design. Both bows are no more  than 5/8 in thickness just outside of the fades, and tapering from there. I love mulberry for bows, just take your time tillering..Terry

[longbowhntr]

Thanks!! Appreciate it. I've got a couple of osage bows to finish before I get started but hope to soon.

Ya'll got any pics you would like to share?

Thanks again David

[John Scifres]

Mulberry varies greatly in its density.  Best to test it by cutting a dry piece 1" square by a few inches and the floating it on-end.  Measure how much is below the water line and then divide by the total length.

If you can't do that then go for a safe 1-3/4"+ wide, 68" bow.

[DCM]

Like John says, you gotta design for the stave in your hand.  If it feels real "light" you know you need more wood.  Once you get to tillering you can always take width (or lenght) if it proves more game than you first estimate.  A longer, more narrow bow will leverage it's lower density and resilience to work.  I have blown a couple up, from very low humidity, so it does have it's limits but it is definately game bow wood.

[longbowhntr]

John and David appreciate both of ya'll jumping in. I'll give it go soon and see what happens.

Thanks again David

[Roy Steele]

I've built quite a few mulberry bows.I keep them a little wider than osage.Anywhere from 1 5/8's to 1 3/4's,60"s to 64"s long.The wider your limbs the shorter your bow can be.