Aluminum Arrow jig

[Jakeemt]

I love aluminum arrows. Always have always will. When I buy a pack of  xx75 I know they will be straight and consistent in spine and weight. They are easy to work with and tolerate most solvents. The cheapest way to buy them is as raw shafts. If you do though you will have to cut them to your preferred length. I have always used a small red pipe cutter to cut my aluminum arrows. It's cheap, quiet, portable and does a very good job. It has one draw back however, length. It's not easy to get just the right length by eyeball. Often if you cut a dozen shafts even with careful measurements they are off a 16th-1/8th from one another. As you get better this will tighten up but, you'll still get a few shafts out of spec every batch. So after years and years of doing it the hard way I came up with this jig. It's very cheap. I had all the components laying around in my archery work station.

First you'll need some components. The first is a shaft large enough to just fit over the shafts of your choice. In this case I used an old 2315 arrow for my 2117 gamegetters. You'll also need an appropriate screw in insert and a screw in tip. I used a bludgeon point.

Here are the components laid out.

[Jakeemt]

Standby fella's I have to resize some images.

[Alexander Traditional]

I just ordered one dozen 2016 and one of 1916. I'm liking aluminums more and more for the reasons you stated too.

I can get mine very close,but I'm always up for learning another way.

Where I had trouble is with the inserts. Both spines the inserts will not go all the way in,and I couldn't tap them in either. I ended up with sand paper and then get vise grips and a field point and just kept twisting until I got it in. How do you do your inserts?

[Jakeemt]

Here are the components laid out

[Jakeemt]

Alexander I will answer your question a little further down. For now lets do a little math. My 2117's are 31 inches from throat of the nock to the end. I want them to be 29 1/2 inches. For the jig to work I need to get the jig the right length. To do so I need to account for the insert and the distance between the blade and the edge of my pipe cutter. In this case my insert takes up 3/4 of an inch and the pipe cutter 1/4. Therefore  1 1/2 + 3/4+ 1/4= 2 1/2 inches for my jig.

[Jakeemt]

The sleeve of the Jig is the 2315 shaft which I cut to 2 1/2 inches. I add a bludgeon point for the sake of the kitchen table. Here is is fully assembled.

[Jakeemt]

Now you slide it over your shaft as shown. Then place the pipe cutter directly up to the edge of the jig and clamp it down lightly.

[Jakeemt]

Because of the gap between the blade and the edge of the pipe cutter a little shaft will be left sticking out. You can just grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out.

[Jakeemt]

This will ensure a consistent length from shaft to shaft and it"s fast and easy to use. Here are a few tips and tricks especially for you Alexander. Aluminum shafts will always benefit from a chamfered edge. Even if you never cut them you should chamfer the inside of the shaft at the mouth or the insert will get stuck more often than not. If you cut them with a pipe cutter it will compress the edges of the mouth ever so slightly and you will have to chamfer them. The best and easiest tool I know of is a pocket knife. Simply placed the curved edge of the blade against the inside of the shaft and twirl it around a few times, blow out the shavings, and you are good to go. Also xx75 shafts are slick before you fletch them do your self a favor and give the area to be fletch a rub down with a brillo pad. Your fletching will thank you.

[Alexander Traditional]

I got ya Jacob. I use a rifle reloading tool. I still have a lot if problems.

Your system looks good.

[Red Beastmaster]

For 30 years I've had several graduated lines on my work bench that I use to measure and mark every shaft before cutting. It takes two seconds.

You guys seem to be making a simple procedure difficult.

[M60gunner]

I use a rat tail file to remove burr. You maybe tightening the tube cutter to much making a larger burr? Your cutter maybe dull as well.

[Jon Stewart]

Agree Red, I measure, mark with a pencil and cut away. I inserted a star bit in one of my legs to my work bench and use it to clean the freshly cut arrow. Cleans up nice and insert slips right in. Been doing it this way for around 50 years.

It is nice to see young minds come up with new ideas.

[bigbadjon]

I just cut mine with a band saw and square it up in a disc sander. Perfect every time and takes about a minute per shaft.