Reducing draw weight of new blank

Started by lcamp319, May 01, 2018, 10:20:51 PM

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lcamp319

I am attempting to finish a laminated longbow blank.  Grip and overlays went well. I have not touched the back, belly or sides of limbs.  Tiller seems good for what I know.  Problem is draw is 43#@28", I ordered 35#.  Talked to company where I got blank.  They said is not uncommon problem and that I can "trap the limbs" and bring down to desired weight of 35#.  Eight pounds seems like a lot?
Can I slowly, slightly and evenly sand the edges to bring weight down without schmuking it up?  Maybe a 1/32" off each side?
If it means anything, limb edges are square to sides and about 1 5/16" wide at fade outs.
Any recommendations appreciated.

C. Johnson

To "trap" the limbs means to make them into a trapazoidal shape. You'll want the back of the bow to be the narrower side.

What I do is file each side of the limb at about a 20 degree angle. Do an even number on each side. String the bow and check tiller. Rinse, lather, repeat.

You can sand the glass if necessary to bring down the weight a little more.  The trick here is to go slow and check your progress frequently.

I think you'll be able to get close to your target weight.

Good luck!

BMorv

I'm not sure the blank has glass, but the technique is still the same. Is it all wood or glass?  You shouldn't have a problem getting down that much if it's all wood.

Life is too short to use marginal bow wood

kennym

For a glass longbow, unless made really narrow to start, 8# is doable, carefully!

Check tiller and limb alignment often!

If you have a 1.5" wide at fades bow and take 1/16 off each side, you will lose about 3-4#,  you can trap as described by Craig above to lose another 3 or so and final rounding of limb edges should get you close to 8# off. 

If you haven't done any tillering work, you might ask the company to exchange the bow for the weight you ordered.  8# off order weight is a bit much IMO
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

Forwardhandle

I'm glad you posted this thread I have bought every book on glass bow making I can find and in any of them very little is said on tiller technique or how to crown the glass how much how far etc , crowning I have often wonder how far you can go with out raising fibers ? Side tiller narrowing the width is pretty strait forward but crowning technique is not well explained it can be a little nerve racking never haven tried it . So I'm guessing the point is don't miss your weight by to far...lol
If you fear failure, you will never try ! But never except it!!

kennym

I refuse to sand the face of the glass, I know people do it, but it looks too easy to really screw up a limb or bow.........
Stay sharp, Kenny.

   https://www.kennysarchery.com/

lcamp319

Thanks for all the advice.  Things turned out well. I trapped/filed the edges of bows back at a guessed 20 degrees.  First time, filed glass down to edge of wood.  No weight change.  Second time, filed edges at same angle until maybe 1/32" of wood exposed. Very little weight change.  Third time, filed edges at same angle until 1/16" of wood exposed.  Bingo!! Dropped to 35# and is exactly where I wanted.  Would not have had the nads to try without all the advice.  Thanks.  Will make a perfect bow for newbys and form training.

jsweka

Quote from: kennym on May 03, 2018, 06:18:02 PM
I refuse to sand the face of the glass, I know people do it, but it looks too easy to really screw up a limb or bow.........

My thoughts exactly!
We put the glass on a bow to keep the wood from blowing up.  Just seems stupid to then cut into the glass.

I've dropped bows 10+ lbs by narrowing the limbs and/or trapping and it obviously worked well in your case.
>>>---->TGMM<----<<<<

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