Hickory Takedown

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · June 22, 2015, 06:55:00 PM

Hey guys,
Just trying to get things in order for a couple of bows I want to make this year. I have 3 that I would like to complete before the hunting season if possible. They include a takedown hickory selfbow.

Now the bad thing about me is I have broken every single selfbow I attempted. I have a pair of billets that I got sometime early last year. I have no idea on what style I want to make. All I know is I don't want it too wide nor very long. At the longest I would like is around 66 ttt. I am shooting for between 45-55# range.

Can all you selfbow guru's assist an absolute beginner on what type of dimensions I should be using. I would like to say I would flip the tips some and add some reflex into the limbs with heat tempering. I am going to do some research around here on hickory builds but wanted some information and insight from you guys.

Thanks in advance,
Justin

Mad Max · June 22, 2015, 07:58:00 PM

Let's start with the breaking first and take care of that. make sure you are doing things right.

more info on that??
where are they breaking?
do they break during tiller?

before you start bending them, ALL the file marks and scratches have to be sanded smooth !

end of fade and width stop at the same place !

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · June 22, 2015, 09:46:00 PM

Normally they all have broken due to me not following the grain of the wood. I think that I have attempted 5 selfbows and all have had some sort of slight snake to them. I have yet to be able to find anywhere a nice straight simple beginner stave. I have watched Gary Davis movie many times and tried to follow his information there. I also have read Dean Torges osage bow book. I just feel that I may not have developed the skills for building these types of bows.

Mad Max · June 22, 2015, 10:53:00 PM

yea you do

stay at it
we will help

John Scifres · June 23, 2015, 12:14:00 PM

66" for up to 28" draw, hickory I'd go 1-3/4" wide for half the limb, tapering to 1/2" nocks. That'll get your weight.

Forget about heat bending. Make a successful bow first.

Mad Max · June 23, 2015, 12:18:00 PM

QuoteOriginally posted by John Scifres:
66" for up to 28" draw, hickory I'd go 1-3/4" wide for half the limb, tapering to 1/2" nocks. That'll get your weight.

Forget about heat bending. Make a successful bow first.

x 2

follow the grain
if the string does not line up we will help you threw it

I have not broke any but I sure have screwed some up

Troy D. Breeding · June 23, 2015, 05:53:00 PM

When I first started making hickory bows made them 2" wide for half the limb, then tapered to the tips. After I had a couple shooting I reduced the width to 1-3/4".

Mad Max · June 23, 2015, 06:30:00 PM

post some pictures of the Hickory
let's get started

I watched youtubes and started on my own
before I new about the forums

I learned something new every one that I made

passion for knowledge · June 23, 2015, 07:43:00 PM

I'm fairly new at the bow making game - working on 5 & 6 at the moment.

#1 - Oak board bow - came in a bit light, but not a bad start #28 @ 28"

#2 - Oak board bow - better - #42 @ 28"

#3 - Osage board bow - broke while tillering.

#4 - Maple Holmegaard style (posted on Trad gang) - #53 @ 28.

#5 - I'm working on an experimental oak recurve at the moment - set up a steam chamber for bending limbs - riser is already made.

#6 - I have another riser that I want to use to make a takedown recurve, based on what I learn from #5.

Maybe you should start simple and cheap, and go from there.

Here's the maple....

http://s25.postimg.org/xtt23c53j/P6025851.jpg

Shoots really nicely.

I have a 60lb recurve that I bought a few years ago. That's when the bug bit me.

I make my own arrows and strings.

I just love the whole process - making 'em, understanding how they work, the aesthetics and the icing on the cake - going out and shooting!

Main thing is ENJOY!

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · June 23, 2015, 10:36:00 PM

Thanks PFK... I have been building bows for a few years now and have many under my belt. Just not a selfbow as of yet. I am a glass guy and an occasional BBO.

I'll figure it all out one of these days.

takefive · June 24, 2015, 02:58:00 AM

Justin, I made this hickory selfbow last winter. It's just a bit wider than 1 1/2" at the fades. I kept that width for half the length of the limb then tapered to 7/16" wide tips. It's a little over 1/2" thick at the end of the fades and tapers to 3/8" thick at the tips. The grain on this stave was very straight. Find one with good grain and you'll be just fine. Bet if you start at 1 3/4" wide you'll be in the ball park for 50-55#.
I've seen one of your BBO's and quite a few of your glass bows and was impressed with the quality of your bows. Maybe you just need some tillering advice for the selfbows? I know that I usually do.

http://tradgang.com/noncgi/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=125;t=012370;p=1

bowhntineverythingnh03743 · June 25, 2015, 04:28:00 PM

Thanks takefive.... I appreciate your compliments. Your bows are beautiful and I have also read all of yours that you have posted. I am going to give this a shot once I finish a small recurve. Just got all my material ready today so I'm finishing fitting the riser and then I will be onto this hickory bow.

I will certainly start a thread and document my process as well as I can and ask for tons of tillering advice.

Mad Max · June 25, 2015, 04:43:00 PM

COOL

To me , glass bows are easy er than self bows.
self bows, out of 20 or so, I'am still learning

takefive · June 26, 2015, 07:48:00 PM

Thanks for the kind words, Justin. I tried a glass bow awhile back and the glue up kicked my butt. Everything slid, riser, glass, and lams. Since then, I've read some threads on how to strap them down better. I have everything I need to try another one except the courage to face another glue up

Glueing on a backing or a couple of lams on a wooden bow is just way easier.