Refinish? Where to start?

Started by flcrkr, May 12, 2012, 03:06:00 AM

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flcrkr

I have an older bow that looks like someone sprayed with a clear coat and it ran. I would like to refinish the bow, where do I start? Do I sand first then use steel wool or vise versa? What do I do about the silk screens, serial number, draw weight, draw length etc.....how do I keep them? Do I write it down and once it's been sanded rewrite on bow? And if so, with what? What kind of sealer should I use? Polyurethane, Tru-oil? Should it be sprayed or hand rubbed? All information is greatly appreciated. Thank You!!!

Dimondback

I just started building laminated longbows over the last year and have been struggling with getting a really nice finish trying several methods. In this trial and error process I have had to "refinish" my creations a few times. I have been using those foam sanding blocks in different grits to remove the old finish and then using steel wool as the final sanding. You will lose the data written on the bow if you take it down to bare wood as it seems that many bowyers (including myself) write the information down between coats.

The last two bows I have completed have finished nicely and here is how I did it (this is not "original information" but compiled from a lot of research here on this site.

1) Sand the wooden parts of the bow (riser and limb edges with increasing grades of sand paper)

2) Rub lightly with a damp rag to raise the grain of the wood.

3) Lightly Re-sand to smooth out the newly raised grain and then wipe with denatured alcohol.

4)Rub on a thin coats super glue to the exposed wood parts, allow to dry and then lightly sand then repeat until all of the grain "holes" are filled. Be careful not to glue yourself to the bow, yourself to yourself, or yourself to your scotch glass during this process. Ask me how I know   ;)  (This step may not be needed if refinishing an old bow as the grain may already be filled with previous finish) Reclean with denatured alcohol.

5) Rub in coats of Tru-Oil into the wood only following package instructions until a uniform finish is achived. Lightly buff the entire bow with 0000 steel wool and then wipe down to remove dust.

6) Re-write the bow information onto the limbs as desired using a fine tip Sharpie PAINT pen. (NOT the standard sharpie marker which tends to bleed) Allow to fully dry.

7)Wipe the entire bow down with Wipe-on poly with multiple coats as directed on the package, lightly buffing with steel wool between coats.

8)Allow to dry for 24-48 hours and attatch your arrow rest.

9)Go shoot it and admire your work!

Hope this helps...it is what has worked for me.
"Do or Do Not, There is no "Try"
Martin Savannah 45#
3PC Home Built Longbow 53# @ 28"
MAJ - SCARNG 1998 - Present

4runr

DB had some really good info there.

Here's how I go about it.Take photos of all decals and writing on the bow. Order new decals from Al.
Sand the bow with 150 grit, being careful not to overdo it on the glass. Resand the bow with 220.
Then I start coating with Minwax wipe on poly.
After a few coats put the writing back on and the decals. Then I continue coating, with light sanding between coats with 400, until I reach my desired finish.
Kenny

Christ died to save me, this I read
and in my heart I find a need
of Him to be my Savior
         By Aaron Shuste

TGMM Family of the Bow

JJB

Good advice above.  If you want to save the original decals and lettering you can place tape over them so they don't sand off.  I've done that with a few with good results.
-Jay

Jack Hoyt 75

Does Al still make and sell decals?
Hill Country Bows - RER

TGMM, Compton Traditional Bowhunters, NWTF Member
Indiana NWTF State Board Member
Indiana Bowhunter Association Member

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