< <





INFO: Trad Archery for Bowhunters



Finger groove grinding

Started by Leftieshot, May 08, 2008, 05:03:00 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Leftieshot

What are you guys using to shape the finger groove or grooves after the scales are glued?  I'm talkin about the excess wood and epoxy that needs to be removed.  The radius is too small to get in there with my belt grinders, so the only thing left is a file and man that is slow!  Any rotory tool(dremel or die grinder) burns the wood.

robtattoo

Round & half-round rasp & then files followed by sandpaper wrappd around a dowel for me.

Patience is a virtue  ;)
"I came into this world, kicking, screaming & covered in someone else's blood. I have no problem going out the same way"

PBS & TBT Member

>>---TGMM, Family of the Bow--->

kbaknife

Robert is 100% correct.
I think you may need to get yourself some coarser files! The ones I use remove material SO FAST that sometimes I get in trouble.
Check out this thread and see what I've done ENTIRELY by files:
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=110;t=000442
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

Leftieshot

Thanks Karl and Rob, I saw that thread progress.  I have tried a rasp before but only seem to tear of chip out the edges of my wood.  Is there a specific type or grade of coarseness you two recommend?

LC

Well I love power tools! I'm sure all the great knife builders above are correct though! Nothing like the control of doing it by hand. But the older I get the more I appreciate or need power tools. I've used the dremel tool for years even building my own TD recurves I've used it with the drum sander to shape the riser after bandsawing to rough shape. With that said if your burning wood your sand paper is wore out! It don't take long at 15G rpm. Especially with soft wood. I recently built a 1x42" belt sander that I've been using and was gona post pics but just too many things going on now for me. Hopefully  in a day or two I can post some pics!
Most people get rich by making more money than they have needs, me, I just reduced my needs!

Leftieshot

I currently use Nicholson half round both smooth and bastard.  What others are recommended?

kbaknife

I'm gettin' older, too, 54, that's why I use the right files. They do the job fast and correct, and I only need to do it one time!
Check out your new 3 Rivers Archery Supply in the Bow-building section -
#49 and #50 Nicholson cabinet MaKer's Rasps. They ain't cheap! But the work they accomplish will absolutely amaze you!
When the last deer disappears into the morning mist,
When the last elk vanishes from the hills,
When the last buffalo falls on the plains,
I will hunt mice for I am a hunter and I must have my freedom.
Chief Joseph

skullworks

I use a dremel with sanding drums or sanding drums for a drill press. Just go slow!
'cuz deer huntin' ain't catch & release!

uhdet

Get some 3/4" to 1-1/2" drum sanders that go in your drill press. Get grits from 60 to 120. They make short work of finger grooves. I get mine from Grainger. They will really improve your work.

theunluckyhunter

you could do like i do on my site windows...i draw out the finger groove with a sharpie and color in what i want removed then get a fine toothed hack saw and cut almost to the line just barely spacing out the cuts, then chisel out the waste and use a dremel or file to finish
anything can happen on a texas friday night, if you dont mind your manners you dont mind a fight

Ray Hammond

You can also 'feather' your belt on your grinder about 3/16" off the edge of the wheel, and use that 'slack' belt area to work in there...and you can also slack belt it...its tougher than using a Bader, Wilton, or KMG, but its do-able.
"Courageous, untroubled, mocking and violent-that is what Wisdom wants us to be. Wisdom is a woman, and loves only a warrior." - Friedrich Nietzsche

Lin Rhea

Along with what Ray is saying, you can rip a belt in half length ways and get a narrower belt. A cloth belt, that is. I have done this a few times. When you split it it will rip pretty well all the way around and meet where you started. I start the rip with a knife and carefully tear it all the way around. I have some J-flex belts that are narrow and wavy on the edges. They work good too.

Another thing, I take the flat platten off the tooling arm, so that I have slack belt right in front of me. The reason I say this, is because for a long time I worked from the side of the machine ( top or bottom )to use that slack belt. Still do sometimes.
                                Lin
"We dont rent pigs." Augustus McCrae
ABS Master Bladesmith
TGMM Family of the Bow
Dwyer Dauntless longbow 50 @ 28
Ben Pearson recurve 50 @ 28
Tall Tines Recurve 47@28
McCullough Griffin longbow 43@28

LC

Heres how I do it. Like I said man I love my dremel but a 1/2" drum sander spinning at 15k doesn't take long to wear out some sand paper. I use a small 4x 36" bench top sander for lots of things in knife building. Flat sanding handle scales, sanding off excess glue after glue up and for dove tailing scales and bolsters. Well I ran onto a new one on close out for 32$ and decided to retire my old one and make this 1x42 belt sander. I took off the keyless chuck out of a defunct cordless drill and mounted it on my old sander. The benefit is you've got 42" of belt going around and it lasts way longer.



Most people get rich by making more money than they have needs, me, I just reduced my needs!

Leftieshot

LC, thats is slick!!!  I like it!

OconeeDan

LC, your shop is lacking two things...dust and disorganization!

Contact Us | Trad Gang.com © | User Agreement

Copyright 2003 thru 2025 ~ Trad Gang.com ©