I know it's a carbon shaft question...not wood! But I like carbons too. So, last night after I finished up some spruce shafts and turned to making some carbons up. I realized I didn't have anymore of the epoxy glue that the place I had bought the shafts from recommend. I looked at the Platinum Fletch-tite tube and it says it is for carbon along with other substances. Will it work for putting inserts in these carbon shafts?
The glue you have will probably work fine as long as you clean all of the residue out of the inside of the shafts from where you cut them. I use 90% rubbing alcohol and Q-tips. Good luck.
would recommend a trip to a hardware store and get long cure 2 part epoxy over the fletch tite. You will get a better bond with the expoxy.
I think I am more comfortable with the epoxy idea. I would hate to have a failure while hunting or losing a head in a target.
I clean the inside of tube with a 22cal brush and use sand paper or anything to ruff up the insert,then i use the amber hot glue.I havent had a problem yet,and they are easy to remove with a hot long screw. :campfire:
No, the Fletch-tite will not work, it will hold them there but pull out fairly easy. Long cure epoxy is best. I used to use 5 minute epoxy and had some trouble with them pulling out, went to the 24 hour stuff and it is the best. Shawn
Thanks guys. How about JB Weld??? I have to get some for making a knife.
I use Goat Tuff glue, without any prep to the inside of the shaft whatsoever, no alcohol, no roughing up. Never had one pull out. Then again, I'm not quite sure how I would manage to get them back out if I wanted-
I've used Fletch-tite on mine, and I abuse my arrows pretty bad. They've held up so far.
Fletch-tite is a liquid fletching cement -- not designed for inserts or points or any type. Ferr-L-Tite is a hot melt glue designed for inserts and points. That's what I've been using to glue inserts into my carbons since about '92 or so, and I've never had a problem with it.
I like Bohning Powerbond,never had one pull out and I like to be able to get the insert back out if I decide to change it.
I second what Hill Boy said. Been doing it that way with zero problems.
Be patient with the heat and they can be removed.
Three of the ideas are good.
I have used hot-melt and it is good if you are patient.
24 hour epoxy is better than 5 minute and both can be removed by heating the tip with a point inserted to weaken the epoxy.
JB weld is probably the strongest and I bet hard to remove. You could glue a battleship to the empire state building with JB Weld. My friend once repaired his exhaust valve seat with it and raced his motorcycle for the whole season.
Im a Loctite superglue guy,,,and they will remove easily when heated in the field point
If you will dip the tip in water immediatly after installing the broad head it will set the hot glue quicker and better.Use amber glue for permanent .Use the white glue when experimiting.wipe everything down with mineral spirits alcahol or paint thinner,water somthing before applying the hot glue. good luck
I use Loc-Tite gel type super glue. Had no problems and it is quick and easy. Been shooting broadheads into a yellow jacket block without any pulling out.
QuoteOriginally posted by Hardhed:
I use Goat Tuff glue, without any prep to the inside of the shaft whatsoever, no alcohol, no roughing up. Never had one pull out. Then again, I'm not quite sure how I would manage to get them back out if I wanted-
BINGO! thats what i do and aint had a problem yet!
as to answer your question on how to remove them, just heat up a field point that is screwed into the point then pull it out. however, if you dont manage to get all the way into the shaft before it sets up, dont heat it up and push it in and leave it, cause it wont hold. been there done that got that tshirt...
pull it out, clean it and then reglue it and out it back in.
NO! dont use fletch tite for inserts, also got the t shirt for that. used it on a bowfishing point, it managed to stay on one night but fell off before we went the next night...
Go to golfworks.com and get some epoxy for golf clubs. they make some specifically for carbon and its made to take an impact. If my heads can take me beating them on the ground when I miss, the glue should hold an insert just fine.
Been using JB Weld for a while now. Never had one pull out.
Roknjs, great idea. Should of thought of that. There is a golf club repair place here in town. I'll see if I can't buy a tube off them. For now the JB Weld seems to be doing the job.
I use Gorilla Glue. I've never lost an insert and it's heat reversible. I shot the iron pig at ATAR and of course it ruined the arrow, but the part of the shaft that was touching the insert was perfectly fine. 10 inches up the shaft, though, it looked like a slinky (Easton Excel 500).
I've not had a problem with them pulling out...but you hit a softball or bigger sized rock with my setup and you'll quickly find out the heirarchy of adhesives.
I've tried a bunch of different glues (powerbond, gorilla glue, various CA(superglues) glues including the goat tuff and loctite brands, all the hot melts I could find, devcon slow and quick cure epoxy as well as a couple of off brands, and Easton epoxy packaged with axis type arrows) and found nothing would keep the inserts from being pushed into and mushrooming the shaft until just recently trying JB Weld. This is by far the toughest I've used, followed by gorilla glue and powerbond. I'll probably start footing my carbons because a really hard hit will snap the shaft above the insert instead of mushrooming like it used to.
My local golf shop uses a cheap epoxy, nothing special. However, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has used any special purpose golf glue in comparison to other glues they've tried.