New Question.....
As Vermonster13 said,each added inch decreases spine about 5#
If I have a cedar arrow 28"-BOP spined at 55#-60#,would it be safe to say that the same arrow 29"-BOP would spine 50#-55#?????
Question #1
I draw a true 28",then add an extra inch for a total arrow length of 29" to BOP.
I have some aluminium 2016's that are 29 3/4" BOP. should I pull the inserts(about 2 dozen)and cut them to 29" or leave them at 29 3/4" and shoot them as is.
Question #2
If you have arrows spined at your draw length,then add 1" to some, 2" to others,then 3" to the rest.....Will all the arrows fly the same because they are all being drawn 28"
Question #3
How many inches longer than your draw length are YOUR arrows?????
Every inch of length softens them about 5#s on average.
I thought it might.....Can you explain why?????
Force the bow puts on the arrow will be a function of the bow's weight not the length of the arrow.
The arrow is attempting to stay at rest. Law of inertia - things at rest tend to stay at rest while things in motion tend to stay in motion.
Spine is a measure of the ability of the arrow to accept that force without bending. Higher spine, stiffer arrow.
Longer the arrow the more flexibility it will have. Lower spine.
Think of two metal rods of the same diameter. One very long (say 3ft), one very short (say 1 inch). Which is easier to bend?
longer arrow =more leverage for the point weight to bend easier, try to bend a two foot 2x4 then try to bend a four foot 2x4 using the same pressure. You will get the idea:0)
Jeff beat me to it but is right on:0)
OK I get it.....But,will 3/4" REALLY make that much of a differance?????
3/4" will not normally make a difference to the average shooter. They will be slightly heavier, but that probably won't be noticeable either unless you're shooting 90 meters 8^).
I wouldn't bother taking that 3/4" off of two dozen arrows.
Thanks George!!!!! I'm really leaning toward leaving them alone.
"3/4" will not normaly make a differance to the average shooter"
"AVERAGE"!!!!! George, I couldn't hit water if I fell out of a boat my friend!!!!!
Yup, Gonna leave'em alone..... :thumbsup:
Thanks Again!!!!!
Shoot them and see if the need cutting.
The question is how they fly, not how long they are. They could be too short, too long or just right. You could have a 26" draw and shoot a 30" arrow if that's what tuned best for your particular bow, arrow, head etc ...
If they fly good length does not matter.The first few shots might go low if you are used to shooting shorter arrows because of the smaller gap but you will adjust in just a few shots.
Woodchucker,
Whatever arrow length you are shooting in practice won't matter too much if you aren't getting them to group.Shoot a group of the same length arrows and work on form and release until you can shoot a good group at 20 yds.
When you can shoot a good group,THEN bareshaft your arrows and adjust length-spine as needed.You will NEVER get a good reading on your bareshafts if you can't shoot consistent enough to group feathered shafts.
When I am bareshaft tuning I don't care as much about arrow lenght as their spine.I use carbons and a little length can affect them a lot.I like to stay around a certin length because I gap shoot, but that is another subject.
Good luck and good shooting,
Randy
3/4s of an inch in aluminum should not make much of a difference but with carbons you will notice it. Shawn
It's a lot like a horse's tail... the long hairs are a good swish, but cut them to an inch or less in length and you've got pretty stiff bristles for a brush. Anybody can bend a 4-foot long piece of tubing, but try bending a half-inch length of the same stuff. I know those are rather exaggerated examples, but I think they work. The same thing is going on with an arrow. HTH.
ttt with a new question!!!!!