I just made a flemish string jig using some plans I found. It turns out that if I want a 60" string I need to set the movable peg to the 60" mark on the jig. That's would be fine if I could remember how much shorter than NTN bow length a string needs to be! I have a 62" longbow and I managed to fumble around (interpret that as making 3 strings to get one the right length) and come up with 58". That's 4" shorter than NTN. Can anyone tell me what the formula would be for a recurve? I know a recurve string is relatively shorter for a given bow length.
Thanks,
John
For recurves the string should be 4" shorter and longbows should be 3" shorter.
You subtract the 4" from your bow length= 58"
Then add 16" for the braids +16
=74"
The page I look at is:
www2.pcom.net/jthutten/jth/doc/flemish.htm#Formula Hope this helps. David
I do the same as Snag, only I don't use a jig. I just drive two nails in the wall at the length I need, and go from there.
Yes, that is the standard formula 4" shorther for recurves and 3" shorther for longbow, but it does not always work out that way. For example, non ff Silvertip recurves take a string 5" shorter. Always best to measure the string on the bow to make sure.
Danny
You can always take an old string and use it as a template for the one you are making. As you get going on the new one stretch out the old one next to it and check and see how much more you need to make. The B50s and others that stretch you will have to adjust by twisting anyway.
John, the string jig you made with the center peg showing different lengths could relate to the length of the string or to the length of the bow. I bought two different flemish string jigs and the center numbers on one was representing the actual string lenght while on the other is was representing the length of the bow.
Thank you all for your help. Sidebuster, I used to have another jig that was set up so the center peg marked the length of the bow. There was a formula of NTN bow length, minus something, minus 1", plus (I think) 17" and the result was the peg location. My first clue when I made this one was that the longest setting was for 70", too short for the old formula. Sure enough, when I set the jig for 62" I had a 62" string when I was done. This jig is probably easier to use but it will take me a while to get used to it.
Thanks again,
John
Depends on the bow--like Danny said, it's always best to go by the actual string length if you know it.
AMO specs are 3" shorter, longbow or recurve (under 100# tension), but a lot of bows don't go by AMO specs. I've made longbow strings from 1 1/2" to 4" shorter, recurve strings from 2 1/2" to 6" shorter.
The "rule" I heard for years was "three inches shorter for a longbow, four inches shorter for a recurve". That will work on a lot of bows, but when I started making a lot of strings I found out the "rule" doesn't apply on every bow--maybe 50% of the time.
Chad
Here's a good link on string making notes:
http://www2.pcom.net/jthutten/jth/doc/flemish.htm#general
Chad, how much twisting of a string to make it shorter are you comfortable with.. Would you prefer to have one twisted up pretty tight or one with few twists??
Seems like with a 2 bundle string if it's long enough to require a good bit of twisting to make length that the resulting string is more "round" and this carries over to a smoother serving.. Is my thinking on this correct ?
Thanks
Pat, I was not asked but give my answer anyway. And I suppose we are talkking double loop strings?!?
If you do your flemish string with the right number of "counter twist", "back twist" or whatever you would like to call it, there is NO need to twist it up thight to give a nice round string boddy.
In theory, the string would be strongest and more efficient if all strands are parallel. To much twisting - and sometimes I hear of four complete turns to an inch as recommended by Co. XY :eek: - will put uneven stress on single strands and weaken your string. Okay - with modern materials not so much of a concern as maybe with linnen ...
As for a string lenght "formula"
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I had already written some text on this subject yesterday but decided then better not to post it. It's sometimes difficult for me to find the right words. And I guess in that case I would have messed it up. I was also quite sure Chad would take care of the question ... I would like to add some thoughts though:
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Nope! Sorry! Deleted it again! It sounds just to harsh ... sorry!
Falk covered it well. You can get by with quite a bit of twist, even with dacron, but excessive twist is just going to cost you a little bit of performance. I also agree that with proper back twist, your string will be nice and round with just a few twists, no matter if it's a 2 or 3 bundle.
You are correct that a rounder string results in a smoother serving. Usually quieter and maybe a little more efficient also--and looks a lot better to me.
Chad
Falk and Chad,
Sure do appreciate your comments...
Chad, you are always a wealth of information and most willing to share, thanks...
Falk, please find a way to put your thoughts down so the rest of us can benifit from them.
Thank you both,
Pat