i'm currently shooting a 50# at 26" longbow with easton 2013 xx75 arrows tipped with a magnus 2 blade broadhead. the whole combination weighs about 382 grains. i know i should probaly shoot a heavier arrow but i've already had a terrible time trying to tune this bow and get good flight with broadheads so i would rather not change it. i also like how i get flatter trajectory. i plan on hunting whitetails and sika deer in maryland this year. do you think this set up will be adequate.
I shoot 53# @ 26" and it would be too light for me. A 26" 1916 will weigh about 440 and my woods weigh between 530 and 570. Trajectory at hunting ranges is fine.
If I have my figures right. 44# bow 382gr arrow.
382 divided by 44 = 8.68gr per inch. Not super lite but it's liter than most here. As long as the BH is sharp & well placed all should be fine.
If your hunting a thicker skined critter I would recommed a heavier arrow. my.02 worth.
Dude from the Desert
Nope,
Not heavy enough, just my opinion.
Bert
They would be too light to suit me. I like to be around 10gr. per pound of bow weight. For one thing, the bow is a lot quieter and for another, penetration is much better.
Russ
Far to light for me.
Too light for what? Hunting? Targets? 3D? small game? Elk? If they are for hunting, then the bigger and tougher the animal the more penetration you want and you'll need the mass behind the arrow to get it. If all you're trying to penetrate is styrofoam or a piece of paper, the sure, get all the flatness you want in the trajectory. It takes a lot of the guesswork out of ranging the target.
Vinnie, While I believe that your arrows are lethal I would consider them too light for me to hunt with. In my opinion hunting arrow weights begin at about 480 grains and go up. I would rather shoot 480s out of a 40 lber than 380s out of a 50 even if both are flying perfect.
How does one go about adding 100grains to a shaft anyways? Is their some brass insert I can glue to the inside of a shaft?
Btw, Im not the original poster, but I have a similar problem. I'm getting good flight and think my set up is okay, but everyone here says its much too light. I'm shooting roughly 360grains out of a 45# @ 28". I can't afford new broadheads and I have Easton Excel 400 carbons that weigh 8.6 per. inch. I'm sure any weight you could use on them would work for the original poster's 2013 xx75.
With your bow, I would like to try a 1916 for hunting deer.
Way to lite,.... you're bow has to be quite noisy to with those arrows, you can get almost 200gr by filling them with 1/4" plastic tubing, weight would be great and it make those alluminum arrows really quite :bigsmyl:
You might also want to consult your regulations. Here in Idaho, they would not be legal that light. Four hundred grains minimum here.
-Fritz
That buck at the top of the page was killed with a 398gr arrow. The bow i was shooting was 55#@29" and i used a snuffer. My current set-up is 50#@29" and my arrows weigh 392gr. They work fine for whitetails but i wouldn't take them elk hunting.
dont go any less than 500 grains,if you were to shoot a bad shot, a 380 grain arrow won't dig deep, so in my opinion take the guess work out and do some more tuning, read ol adcock's post about arrow tuning and go to work.
It would depend on how quiet the bow is.The arrow will do fine but if your bow is not pretty quiet the extra speed you are getting is not going to help.Faster arrows are really no better if a larger percentages of your shots wind up connecting in the wrong places when the deer jump.Been there and done that. :)Most times I wind up around the 10gns mark not because I think I need arrow weight but because I know I get better results with a quiter bow even if some would call it slow. jmo
i just got some 2016 xx75's. i tried to bareshaft tune them but the best i can get is having the bareshaft hit about 2 inches below the fletched arrows. the 2016's are 10.6 grains per inch but they are slightly too stiff for my bow set up. they fly about right with 150 grain heads. this would bring my weight up to about 476 grains. does this sound better
As stated a couple of times...a 1916 (or 2016 left long to start) should smoke out of the bow...a tougher arrow that will give you a bit more weight and calm the masses.
That said...if the noise level is suitable and they fly well, go hunting...it isn't too light for wt's.
I see you posted just as I did...the added weight and new arrow are a great choice...as long as they fly well. The added weight will sure make people on the board feel better, the wt won't be more dead, though ;)
Heavier will only put you deeper in the dirt with deer.
Steve
This is a great post to bring out the heavy arrow vs. light arrow guys. Each of us has our own opinion and set of anectdotal stories. That doesn't make any of us right, necessarily. Personally, I have moved to the "heavier arrow" side in recent years for most game because of my experiences over the last 16 years. Also, until someone does a more thorough study of arrow penetration on live and freshly killed game than Dr. Ashby, I am going to take his word on it unless experience says otherwise.
No doubt that shooting critters in the right spot is the most effective way to put them in the freezer, but there are many things that can and will go wrong at times.
This said, if you want to stick with the shaft that already flies well for you and bump the weight up some, try the weight tubes at 3 Rivers. You can get up to 8 grains per pound of weight increase without significantly changing the spine. Best wishes, Brady
I tend to sit right in the middle on this subject because both camps have valid points so I try to stay at 8.5 grains per pound of draw wieght up to 10 grains perpound and that retains a good trajectory as well as giving enough energy for penitration Good luck Delin
Vinnie, i'm not completely clear on what your drawing. is your draw length 26" ? and your bow is 50# @26" ?
yea my draw length is 26"s and my bow is 50#@26"s
It sounds like you are shooting 7.6 grains per pound, witch may be a little hard on the bow.
Of course, shooting low arrow weight at a 26" draw won't be as hard on the bow as a low arrow weight at say a 29" or 30" draw. At a shorter draw you may be a little more concerned about KE and due to this you may want to bump up arrow weight some.
i agree that a 1916 shaft would probably be the best. you could probably get a 2016 to fly with some good weight up front.
You're on the cusp of a 1916/2016. If you want to add weight and use 2016s, cut them to 28" and get yourself some 125grn steel bh adaptors and glue on 160 STOS or other good broadhead to jump your weight up and lower the spine some on the 2016s. You'll be over 10grn a pound, have a quieter bow and no stress/penetration issues. It will all be on you to make the shot.
i had four 2016's laying around. they are 28"s and fly good with just a 125 grain head.
that brings my weight up to 450 grains
Chad knows, 8gpp. is fine for whitetail out of 50# bows. I know guys who shoot around 7gpp. for most of the game they hunt. I would like a little heavier but they will do. Shawn
the new arrows are about 9 grains per pound, but i still might stay with the light ones around 7.6 grains per inch. i just have a lot more confidence with the lighter arrows and to me i think shot placement woulld be more important than anything, but i'll see how it all works out.
Confidence is the key.
Vinnie, your last statement is exactly why i shoot light arrows. I shoot better and i am more consistent with them than iam with 10gpp. At the ranges i shoot, 8gpp gives me a great trajectory. I don't have to worry about execessive arrow drop nor do i have to worry about penetration.
chad i see you shoot fairly light arrows too what kind of penetration do you get when you shoot a deer(down to the label, the fletchings, etc) and about how much do you get when you hit bone like the shoulder. are you still able to cleanly kill the deer. thanks
QuoteOriginally posted by cjones:
That buck at the top of the page was killed with a 398gr arrow.
I can fletch your arrows and make them a little heavier. :wavey:
Vinnie, The buck at the top of the page was killed with exactly 7gpp. I hit the shoulder on entry and came out in the armpit. The arrow penetrated to the fletch and fell out the exit hole after a couple jumps. I shot a doe in the late season was standing broadside at 10-12 yards. The arrow went through both lungs and was sticking in the ground almost 15 yards on the other side of her.
thanks alot chad that deginetly makes me feel more confident with my 7.6 gpp set up. also just wondering what kind of arrow were you using and what broadhead.
I was using easton axis 500's with a 125gr snuffer.
thanks alot i really appreciate it.
No problem. I'm glad i could help.
No need to change a thing imo, hit the spot with that set-up and you will be gutting a deer in an hour. I've killed 4 deer in the last two years with a longbow at a draw weight of 53#@27 and total wood shaft arrow wt of around 425gr (two blade magnus or woodsman).
assuming i shoot the 380 grain arrow/broadhead what kind of broadhead should i shoot with it. i already have two blade magnus broadheads that i like. does anybody else have some suggestions as to what i should use.
also do you guys think this set up would only be good at ranges to 15 or 20 yards, or would i be able to shoot 25 or thirty yards with them and still kill the deer cleanly
If I were useing it I would use smaller feathers (4" tops) and one of the smaller 2 blades.(stinger, muzzy ect)Big feathers are overkill on light weight arrows and are not needed.A light arrow slows down a lot quicker from the feather drag so it needs to be kept to a min.If you want to shoot fast arrows get the most out of them instead of holding them back. :) jmo
thanks james i already shoot 4" feathers and am thinking about switching to a 2 blade stinger or a b-52 G5 broadhead. i've alreadys shot about fifty arrows with this set up today and i am grouping 3 arrows within a 4 inch circle at 25 yards. with this light arrow will i be able to cleanly kill deer at 25 and 30 yards.
25 yards with a 380 gr. carbon arrow with a long bow! I'll tell ya what, heres what ya do, set up some phone books at 10, 15, 20, 25 yards shoot at them notice your penitration depth at each yardage then decide. 10, 20 yards max in my opinion and 20 is with perfect conditions with a 550gr. arrow, besides i like seeing the hair on their nose, getting close is the key, besides the last buck, last year, that i shot dressed out at 242lbs. Hit a buck like that squarely in a rib at 25 yards and you might run into problems.Jonesy
As long as you can hit what you're aiming at, you can kill deer a lot further away than 30 yards.
One lung hits w/ no exit holes are no fun.I've been there and don't care to go back.There is always a trade off so beware of your long range consistancy at foam when your in the feild.
25 yards is a long shot with any weight Trad bow, not do to penetration but a lot can happen while the arrow is on the way there. The deer can take a step, turn slightly whatever. I keep my shots under 20 no matter the #age unless the deer is totally relaxed and feeding or something. Shawn
I would love to get a 25 yard shot in the desert...... No cover + 6'3 300# Makes for a bad combo here. I spend alot of time shooting at 30-35 yards. I fully understand that a closer shot would be better. mark