I am going to give some Gold Tip 5575s a try with my recurve. I am buying some bare shafts. Need help with how to cut, what kind of glue to use on inserts and nocks and for fletching feathers, and anything else you can advise me on. Thanks, David
Hey Dave,you need a high speed saw to cut them with so they don't splinter; a buddy of mine uses an electric miter saw and I use a arrow cut off saw. For incerts I use low temp hot melt and for nocks I use nothing; thet stay in because of a tight fit. The only thing we use for feathers is Fletch tape,no matter what the shaft is made of. 5575 Are pretty stiff so you may need a heavy point. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the advice, Dina. I'm picking up a 6" cutoff saw tonight for $38.95. I see where some like to use plastic wrap(what is used by dry cleaners) for the insert while cutting them down. I thought this would work good..?
Snag,
What's your draw length and poundage of your bow?
You'll more than likely need 100gr.inserts,to weaken the spine.
55#@28" I ordered some 50gr. brass inserts and plan on trying some 160-200gr. field tips. ???
That should get you pretty close.
If you have`nt dealt with carbon shafts before, you will be surprised how stiff they act. Don`t cut too much at a time.
Even with the brass insert and 200 up front they still might be stiff if you cut much off the full length shaft. Might even try one without cutting it at all. When you get it right it will be worth the effort. Good luck.
The bowyer had me shooting this bow with 80-85# spined arrows when I first tried it out. They flew great! The bow is center cut and he said I could easily shoot several arrow spines out of it. So, I am hoping this will work.
Snag, I have done alot of testing with GT 55-75.
I shoot a BW 53# @28 I draw 29" 56# I bare shaft tested mine with the following set-ups I started with 2 bare shafts and glued in a 50gr brass insert in one. a 100gr brass insert in the other.
I started with an arrow lenght of 31" and a total of 225gr up front in both. (125gr tip & 175gr tip)
I had the best results @ 30" Note I removed the nock and cut the shaft from that end. I cut 1/4"
at a time. @ 20 yards I could hit or be right next to a playing card.
I shoot a Delta w/insert total weight 177gr and a 125gr snuffer (reason for different inserts). Carbons are really easy to tune if you just take your time and follow the results.
There is so much info on this sight that no question will ever go unanswered. Good Shooting
Dude from the Desert
Thanks guys and gal! I appreciate the info. Do you use Duco for the fletching? I have read the slow setup epoxy is the way to go for the inserts and nock...?
DesertD it is nice to get feedback on a similar set up as mine. Thanks. The shafts are going to be 30.5" so I will start with that length and see where it takes me. I have 160,175,200gr field tips...so I think I have the bases covered.
Whatever you do, if you bareshaft following the set up OL Adcock has on his site, make sure you have several both bare and fletched to compare.
and... don't do what I did..only change the bare! Doh! :eek: :rolleyes: Change ALL arrows, bare and fletched and use grouping to dictate what to change in set up.
Be sure you're shooting consistently enough at your test distance to ensure your "readings" are from testing, not shooting variances. :)
After that..it's all slicker'n door handles ina owl rehab pen
take 1 arrow and leave it full length. glue in your insert with hot melt, or car-bond (found in most archery shops that sell carbons). then put your nock in. nock does not need to be glue because they fit tight enough. shoot the arrow full length without feathers. if it shows flying underspine (usually nock left) cut down 1/4 inch and shoot again. repeat as needed. i would say if you are a true 28 inch draw and are shooting the arrows cut to around 29 or 30 inches with 250 grains up front, it will be real close.
Make sure you have the arrows set-up the way you want to shoot them ie: caps, cresting, or wraps. Fletch 3 up and leave 3 bare if bareshafting. Follow O.L. bare shaft instructions if you are going to bare shaft.
Only make one adjustment at a time (brace, nock point, or spine).
Start with full lenght shafts and cut from there. I have ruined shafts by cutting too short. As for the inserts you hot melt while tuning since it is easier to reverse. After you have found the right lenght arrow you can use the glue you what. I have used super glue and goat tuff with no issues.
As for feathers I have switch to fletch tape and will never use anything else again.
I may have forgot something, but I am sure someone will see it and bring it up.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Chris
So Duco doesn't work with carbons? When you bareshaft you want to end up a little weak because when you fletch that will stiffen the arrow a little..? Am I remembering that right?
A little weak is the most forgiving. I use fletch-tite platium for the fletching. Mark
I recommend fletch tape, fast and easy