I finally got unlazy enough to finish sanding my Bingham takedown longbow!!! Got the first coat of finish drying as well....How many coats should I use, and is it ok to light sand between??? I'm using Helmsman spar urethane, by Minwax, in a rattlecan! Here's a few pics, that Bubinga really darkens up when sprayed!!!!
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/100_0885.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/100_0886.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/100_0889.jpg)
Nice looking bow. Yes you can sand between coats. As a matter of fact you are better off using 0000 steel wool between coats. As to how many coats, that is up to you. I would go a minimum of four and up to eight light coats. Brokenwing
Thats gonna look good!! Now no shootin it till its done!! :archer:
Bubinga is a great riser wood. It some times is fairly porus but can be filled with enough coats. Spar works best with thin coats.
Man, that looks great! What kind of wood is glued to the belly side? I like how you shaped the riser, and the grain in that wood is nice.
Never used the finish you are talking about, but I like to fill in the grain all the way if I can. But it's a personal preference. After a few coats, the "protection" will be done.
Dan, It's Hickory, and Walnut, glued to the belly side....My new best friend, KennyM, helped me a BUNCH, with this, my first build!!! Looks like I'll have to git me some OOOO steel wool, and git to work on coat #2!!! Thanks ya'll!!!
One thing I found about that spar urethane--use two or three coats of gloss to get a hard finish, and end with two or three coats of satin to dull it up. Don't spray too much, as it will run! I'd only sand if you have a "bad" spot, and you will sand right thru it very easily!
Looks nice!
Marc
QuoteOriginally posted by john gerrard:
Nice looking bow. Yes you can sand between coats. As a matter of fact you are better off using 0000 steel wool between coats. As to how many coats, that is up to you. I would go a minimum of four and up to eight light coats. Brokenwing
CAUTION - I had someone tell me not to use steel wool with Spar, because if any of the steel wool get's caught under the finish it may oxidize (rust) and screw up the finish. Now, I've use steel wool with Spar before I was told this, and so far I have not had a problem, but I used tack cloth after sanding to get as much of the residue off as possible before respraying. Just a heads up. I now use automotive wet/dry paper for sanding between coats.
Wow Brad that looks SWEEEEET! Now lets go get some bear blood on it!
Yep, use artificial steel wool...those green scuff pads they sell at hardware stores nowadays.
If you miss anything between using regular steel wool and spraying, you will end up with black specks in your finish. Very annoying.
That looks great. I got my materials a couple of weeks ago. Finishing up the drying oven now and will be working on my first one.
Hope mine turns out as nice as that.
Marvin
Thanks, Ya'll!!!
LeRoy, I'm gonna git some carp blood on it first!!! How did your trip go the other day?