I've been reading through about tapered shafts, center shot, different bow designs, etc.
I'm shooting an old Bear Kodiak Magnum recurve with my compound's aluminum arrows. I would like to shoot wood, but don't know much about it. I found some nice-looking wood arrows (Tred Barta Wilderness Arrows)....are they durable? Is it difficult to glue on broadheads in alignment?
I would really like a longer, more forgiving bow....As money is at a premium, is the sequoia longbow from cabela's a decent bow for the price?
Thanks in advance, gentlemen. This is fun, it's like starting all over again!
Look at tapered cedar shafts. I've shot them years ago (from Kustom King archery) and loved them. Plan on getting some more soon. Glueing on broad heads straight isn't tough with a little care. You might look at getting an arrow spinner.
Can't help you with the longbow, I lean towards recurves myself.
Good luck, have fun and good shooting.
I like your bow! :bigsmyl:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/Archery%20Equipment/06NewYearsEve65KMag.jpg)
If you are having arrow flight problems, give us some stats and we can troubleshoot for you. You only told us that you were shooting aluminums from your compound bow's stash, but are they spined for the K-Mag?
Here are pics of my high-tech arrow spinner. Came with a "Tri-Hone", a three sided sharpening stone set. Low-precision version of a machinist's V-block set. I reinforced one end so that I can use it to straighten wood, and I use the backside of the base to cut fletching.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/Archery%20Equipment/arraspinner.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/Archery%20Equipment/fletchboard.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v249/Killdeer/TG%20Uploads/Archery%20Equipment/Myfavoritetool.jpg)
Killdeer :wavey:
Wow. Very nice shooting! Yours is a wee bit more accurate than mine ;)
Ashamed to say I'm not sure if my arrows are spined for the bow or not...they seem to shoot reasonably well. Shooting superlite 2213's with 125 grain heads.
As my recurve was acquired used, it was camoed at one time and the draw specifications covered. I shot 70 pounds on my compound and would judge my Kodiak to be in the 45 lb. range?
I just started not long ago myself tailfeather. Nothing to be ashamed of my man....depending on your set up.... how clost to center your riser is cut, and the length of your arrow. you may find those 2213 shafts a bit stiff for 45 pounds of bow....Coming from a compound bow background myself, i've learned a whole bunch about building traditional arrows to match your bow. with a center shot bow you can get away with a heavier shaft or spine....these long bows and even some of the recurves, you just HAVE to have that flex to get around the riser....i built a spine tester that has helped a lot.....its a leaerning curve bro....there are lots of guys that will help you out here....i'm still a green horn at this stuff, but it sure is fun to build all your own stuff! i'll share everything i can....Kirk
PS .....Feathers are a must!!!! i started out using vanes....talk about shameful....it was pitiful watching those arrows wag their tail at me.... :goldtooth:
Hey Tailfeather, everyone has given good advice. I noticed that one of your questions was are they durable. I am shooting Ash shafts and I am very pleased with how they have held up. I was shooting 3d the other day and I made a bad shot on a goat target. Straight into a completely vertical rock wall from 20 yards. Arrow still in 1 piece. A couple days later, missed same target with same arrow, still in 1 piece. If you want durability, I would recommend ash or hickory. My bow is a Browning Nomad Stalker II 50#@28", cut to center with a B50 string and it shoots great with arrows spined 60 to 65 cut at 29 1/2" to the back of the point. I draw 28 1/2" and I like about 1" of clearance for when I install broadheads. I hope that I have helped, TMG.
Still don't know your draw length or how long your arrows are. :confused:
On a 28" draw with arrows cut to 29", I would start with something between a 1918 and 2016 (I am using 2013s cut to 28") with a 125 grain head.
Oh, the good targets are freaks, that's why I take pics of them. The bow is accurate, though. :knothead:
Killdeer
Good job Killy!
Another avenue on the arrows is to call a "traditional"(not compound) bow shop that specializes in arrows. You give them all your info and let them do the math on the arrows. Have them explain why they picked the spine weight and the physical weight. You'll need to know what broadheads and field point weight you'll be shooting before you make the call.
Bows, bow manufacture, and type and all personal choices. Good or bad are also personal choices. Good luck with all Archery. You've certainly come to the right place for some qualified help, Tradgang! CK
Thanks all.
Kill-I have a 28" draw and use a 29" arrow. Thanks for the recommendation!
LF- Archery Traditions (Dan Quillians shop) is in Athens...about 15 minutes away. Used to go in there and shoot some before I decided to switch over. Called them yesterday for some of the advice I've been asking ya'll about. Guess what? They don't even stock longbows or recurves anymore! Said there was so little demand?? Unbelievable......
Tailfeather, Unless you are set on wood give John at Sipsey River a call he is a sponsor 205-387-2388.You can get a half dozen Goldtip blems for around $20.They look like wood but they are straighter and don't require special care to stay straight.Also you can add weight to the back of the insert on the inside of the shaft and tune the arrow to your bow.
Tailfeather, I'm with R H. Carbons will cut down the learning curve substantially. Get some, get them tuned to your bow, which should be easy with that bow, and get to shooting. As you pick things up from the expertise represented on this site you can ease into wood. That's what I am doing. I love the woodies but they are certainly more tempermental than carbon. Huntin' season will be here before you know it, spend the time praticing.