To All,
Well... here's the deal. I (kinda by accident,) have sold EVERY piece of compound equipment I owned to a good friend who is just getting into archery. Now the only thing you will find in my house is Traditional equipment. I guess I'm committed. :thumbsup:
So... With the help of some great folks on this site... I am VERY pleased with my shooting abilities!!!! :notworthy: (Thanks everyone!) So... hunting season is quickly approaching, and I am slowly getting my rig set up for hunting Blacktails, and Roosevelt's. Eventually... I have to make the decision on broadheads.
After a lot of reading... I'm leaning heavily towards the two bladed Brodhead. I have read and heard some great things concerning the penetration of the 2 bladed broadheads... and feel that this may be the proper route for me to take. (I'm flinging a 560 grn arrow at 170 fps.) But... here locally... All I can find that is even close to a "2 Blade" is the "Phantoms". They are a 2 Blade with a set of bleeder blades.
I read once that Fred Bear was a big fan of 2 blades... but only introduced the "bleeder blades" to provide more clearance (less friction,) for the shaft as it passes through the animal. I like the idea... but am just really looking for some good insight on 2 blades... vs 2 blades w/ bleeders.
So... I would love to hear your thoughts!
Take care!
Donnie
The problem with 2 blades is, that the wound likes to close fast and the bloodtrail sucks. The Magnus vented with bleed blades are perfect. They`re almost a copy of the old bear razorheads.
Take a GATCO sharpening kit, get an additional coarse diamond stone. Go with 15 degrees, both at the main blade and the bleeders. After grinding to the fine stone, take an old leather belt and use the inner side as a strop to remove the burr. This thing will shave your arms clean. I had a perfect blood trail with the bleeders at my Pope and Young buck last fall. I killed another deer a couple days before this buck using the broadhead without bleeders. I couldn`t find any bloodtrail until the next morning and then recovered the deer. If you hunt in Oregon rain forests, a good blood trail will be essentail for revovery...
3 Rivers Archery (http://www.3riversarchery.com)
I personally don't worry about the slit closing idea that a lot of people talk about. I have shot 14 elk with zwickey deltas and probably about 25 deer. Haven't had a problem with blood trails. I first went to two blades when I put down the compound in the 80's. I thought I might need the penetration. After using them I would not go back to a multi-blade head even if I did shoot a compound. I have had a few marginal hits and the penetration was more important than a lot of blades. Gary
Hey Donnie!
Still flingin em with that Checkmate H2 I sold you a while back?
I use the 125gr Steelforce head and have had good results. I'm shooting hi 40's to low 50's in weight and prefer a two blade head myself. The name of the game is to get your head very sharp and zip it thru the vitals. If your bow/arrow is tuned and you do your part with shot placement, you will be fine. A well made 2 blade head passed thru the boiler room will leave a blood trail Ray Charles could follow. At least, that is my experience.
JL
I shoot two blades more than anything else and have found them always to be up to the task and then some. I like and use all types though depending on my mood. I am of the personal belief the best multi-blade head is a two blade with bleeders like you mentioned, they are a great compromise.
Another really good option is a BIG 2 blade, best of both worlds!
Like mentioned above, blood trails are more a product of shot placement and sharpness above other factors such as the number of blades. The larger the quarry, the more I'd lean towards 2 blades, although multi-blades will certainly work as long as your equipment is adequate.
An inbetween is a "4-blade" Zwickey Delta. The bleeders on it are quite small. I usually have one or two of each (4-blade and 2-blade)in my 4-arrow bow quiver. I've shot the 4-blades for about 30 years, though I'm now leaning toward the two-blades a little more for the same reason Sagebrush uses them -- better penetration when one gets a marginal hit.
Thanks for the responses!!!
Tecum-tha,
Yes... I have hunted the rainforests of the Pacific Northwest all of my life, and because of the amount of rain we get... I have never relied on a recovering an animal by the blood trail. (Lots of other clues to follow as well as blood. ;) ) Personally... I like to have them fall within either eye sight... or ear shot. I will definite try your idea on sharpening!
LEFTY_IN_WV,
VERY seldom do I ever shop on line... I try to keep my shopping locally, and help the economy within my area. Do you have any suggestions of a beater Brodhead than the Muzzy "Phantoms" that I mentioned earlier? (I may have to consider shopping on-line. :rolleyes: )
Sagebrush,
Now that you are shooting the 2 blades... do you think the "bleeder blades" are more of a help... make no difference at all... or no help at all?
JL,
I was just thinking about you the other day! Yes... I am still shooting my Chek-Mate that you sold me, and thus far... we can add about a dozen or so grouse... and a bunch of blue-jays to its history! I have also purchased a second Chek-Mate for my son. (Chechen & Bolivian Rosewood riser with limbs veneered with Waterfall Babinga... and Tamo Ash.) Now he doesn't want to shoot it... and I will probably be the new owner of it!
I did purchase a new set of limbs which are at 53# @ 28", (I'm pulling 27 1/2") and its hard to think of being any happier with another bow. I found an area only about 25 minuets from my house that hold two herds of elk. (One herd has bout 30 head of elk... while the other only holds about 15 or 20.) I'm not too worried about shooting the Blacktails... but I am really wanting some deep penetration with the big bodied Roosevelt's. (I'm thinking that the 2 blade is the way to go.) Again... do you think the bleeder blades make a difference... or am I just fretting over nothing?
SlowBowinMO,
Ya know... I have never even though of those BIG 2 bladed jobbies! Don't they make some that have a really long taper as well? How are they on arrow flight? Do they plane much? Also... Do you have any suggestions of a BIG 2 blade that would be a good choice?
Orion,
I will take a look at the Zwickey 4 blades.
Take care!
Donnie
Donnie,
I'm a big fan of the Magnus I, I like to call them flying hatchets! I've heard nothing but great things about the Simmons as well.
A big 2 blade will fly surprisingly well from a tuned set up in my experience. A Magnus I 2 blade gives as much cutting as a Woodsman, but will out penetrate it in most real world scenarios. That is my opinion and I will readily admit not everybody would agree with me on that.
Most of all use what you have confidence in, as long as it's wicked sharp and placed where it belongs you should have success.
P.S. When I refer to a 2 blade with bleeders I'm thinking something like a Zwickey or a Stinger. To me a Phantom is a true 4 blade head (and a very good one).
50 years of experience, trying all kinds of heads, has taught me one thing for sure. DO NOT USE MULTI-BLADE HEADS!!! I use the wide, 135 grain, Magnus two blade and I get wonderful penetration, great blood trails, and quick kills. I've taken hundreds of animals with these heads and that's all I will shoot.
I had some seriously BAD results with three blade and four blade heads! Replacable blades are the worst of all! Many times they will shear off on bone.
Think about this: a two blade punches through bone. A multi-blade has to SPREAD the bone to get through. This causes loss of penetration so fast you wouldn't believe it.
It's bowhunting, plane and simple. A stick, a string, a wooden shaft, and a simple, two-blade head. Don't make something more of it and complicate your sport.
Just an opinion, but one based on a lot of experience.
Too Short
Whoops...that should be "plain and simple" not plane and simple!
Still Too Short
I shoot 2 blade Stos and Grizzlies. Can't go wrong with either. Tried bleeder blades early on and could never get them to shoot. The also whistled badly. Stick with a shaving sharp quality 2 blade aboard a well tuned arrow at 10-11 grains per pound and listen for the crash:)
Jon
i like fixed blades, woodsman,snuffers and magnus stingers
I like 4 blades myself,& haven't had any penetration problems with them on deer size game...
I was with a guy who shot a yearling Elk from a rock ledge with a Snuffer. Zero penetration from a 76 pound recurve!!! The arrow hit the shoulder blade. I have had the photo of that shoulder blade in posts here before. The Snuffer cut a triangular shaped hole in the scapula and didn't go in to the rib cage. Arrow number two had a Zwickey two blade on it and passed right through the Elk.
Deer? Maybe, but why even take a chance, especially from a tree where you might hit the spine? Two blades penetrate just about anything with a heavy shaft.
I shot a Cape Buffalo two years ago with a 960 grain, diamond wood shaft tipped with a 125 grain Magnus. Read my lips: it SEVERED a 3" wide rib going in and then SEVERED a rib on the off side...this means CUT-IN-HALF! My outfitter couldn't believe it. The Magnus head was still sharp, too.
Go with two blades and make your shots count!
Too Short
'What do Y'all think of 2-blades w/ bleeders?'
I think they are find and dandy for deer, if not, I'd have quit using them long ago. I also use them for most big game animals....bear and hogs, and wouldn't hesitate using them on Elk out of my heavier bows.
I`m another who trusts in the penetration of a two blade head. I can honestly say poor blood trails have never been a problem.
I believe the hide stretches just a bit and the opening in the hide is usually larger than the actual width of the broadhead.
In addition to the penetration advantage, is the ease in which a standard two edge can be resharpened.
I have tried two, three , four, and even a six bladed head (Kolpin) . I always come back to a tried and true two edge.
I have an old Bear razorhead that I killed five deer with. I had to retire the head after it had passed through a fat late season doe and bent upon impact with the frozen ground.
This is an age old debate that must be decided by you, and you alone. Just get both lungs and you will have no worries, no matter which head you use.
Well, I cant say thanks enough for everyone's input!!!
SlowBowinMO,
Your comment on the "Phantom" being more like a 4 blade is one of the many things I was wondering about. The bleeder blades DO seem kinda big... and I was wondering if the size of the "bleeders" would affect penetration. I live in an area that is COMPLETELY dominated by compound archers... so the equipment found in the local archery shops are going to be geared towards equipment producing very high speeds. So... I have been wondering if the "Phantom" would work well for me... or if I needed to go to a true 2 blade.
Dwarf,
I think it was Ashby's report was one of the reports that I was reading concerning the effectiveness of the 2 blade. And... your comment about the 3 blade (or more) makes since about "Spreading the Bone". Thanks for the great insight!!!! :saywhat: )
Tim,
While shooting my compound... I only shot the "Thunderheads". Well... Now that I'm shooting Traditional only... I' find myself completely oblivious to the different name brands, and styles of the broadheads. So... I will have to look up the Woodsman, Snuffer, and the Magnus to see what they look like. (Thanks!)
bluegrasshunter,
I understand what you are saying. I'm not so much worried about the deer... especially the Blacktail deer, which are a lot smaller than the Whitetail... but I will be doing a lot of hunting for the Roosevelts... which are actually a larger bodied elk than the Rocky Mountain elk. (Big bodied... smaller antlers.) Several years back, I shot an elk with a compound which flung a 470 grn arrow at 288 fps. and I was using the 3 bladed Thunderhead. I took a beautiful quartering away shot, and the arrow lodged in the heavy muscle on the far side. ("Muscle"... not bone.) I still killed the elk... but the lack of penetration has worried me ever since. (Good Luck this season!)
Terry,
On yer Buffalo... did you use the 2 blade with bleeders? Actually... one of the reasons I ask is because even though I will be hunting mostly for elk and deer... we have a huge buffalo ranch near by, and on occasion... a buffalo gets out, and the late rancher's wife (rancher died last Fall,) said that I could shoot one if it was ever wandering out in the woods. So... who knows! I might be adding buffalo to my list of critters!!! :)
Bonebuster,
I have never sharpened my own Brodhead's.... I have always purchased the pre-sharpened type. But... It sounds like I may have to learn how to sharpen my broadheads if I go with some of the 2 bladed types mentioned in this thread. I understand about shot placement... so we can lay THAT one to rest. :thumbsup: I'm more concerned about the off hand... "Marginal" shot that can happen to all of us. If it happens that I make a marginal shot... I sure would like to have the deep penetration on my side!
Take care!
Donnie
QuoteOriginally posted by Donnie:
Terry,
On yer Buffalo... did you use the 2 blade with bleeders? Actually... one of the reasons I ask is because even though I will be hunting mostly for elk and deer... we have a huge buffalo ranch near by, and on occasion... a buffalo gets out, and the late rancher's wife (rancher died last Fall,) said that I could shoot one if it was ever wandering out in the woods. So... who knows! I might be adding buffalo to my list of critters!!! :)
The 1st shot on Buffy was with a TWO blade at 15 yards, and it only went in about 5 inches....it deflected on a rib and stayed outside the rib cage.
The 2nd shot was 35-40 yards with a Wensel Woodsman....and it burried to the fletch.
I don't have a problem spreading bone since I don't aim at those places. Never had any penetration problems with 4 blades on deer, ...they pass through them like they are made of paper.
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?c=10&s=42&p=69&i=5233
http://www.3riversarchery.com/Product.asp?c=10&s=23&p=152&i=5025
This is a neat post. We all have opinioins and not all are the same. A new comer to our sport has to learn somewhere. This site can be a good place to learn or a poor place to learn. So far, I have seen a lot of good information being put out here and I think this is, indeed, a good place to learn.
I struggled for years to learn about bowhunting. Heck, I started in 1957 after my mom nailed a Whitetail buck with her bow. I was hooked! But...there were no bowhunters around, no internet, and few magazines/books on the subject. I had to learn by trial and error until I began to meet other bowhunters. They taught me a lot. It's the responsibility of us "old timers" to pass this info on.
Cheers from Too Short
Donnie, I bet you can get Stingers (2 blade or 2-with bleeders) at any shop near you. Use the bleeders on deer and the 2 blades on Elk. You could easily use the bleeders on elk too because they are pretty small. Tough as nails (or a shovel, look for THAT post a while back!) and resharpen with a few light strokes of an Accusharp.
I used three- and four-blade heads for several years. Pretty much the only time I ever kept an arrow in a deer was if and when I hit the spine. With four-blade heads, they'd stop cold right at the bleeders. With three-blade models, I'd get the very tip of the head through the far side of the bone.
Then in 2004 I went to Colorado for my first elk hunt and I decided to switch to two-blade heads. I've stayed with them ever since.
Since then I've accidentally spine shot one whitetail. The broadhead completely blew through a vertebrae, splitting it like a piece of firewood. The front 15" or so of the arrow was hanging out the far side of the deer.
On a whitetail buck back on '04 I hit him tight to the near side shoulder on a slightly quartering away angle. The arrow hit the knuckle where the off side upper leg bone attaches to the shoulder blade. It sliced right throught that knuckle and burried in the dirt. I was impressed.
Last September a friend of mine and I headed to Ontario for a moose hunt. The owners of the resort, who were also our guides, were a little skeptical of what a recurve could do to a mature bull. After a minor debacle one of the other hunters in camp had with a bull he shot with a high-poundage compound and a mechanical head (which took three shots to get into the rib cage), they were a lot more skeptical of my odds on getting a clean kill with a stickbow.
A few days later I put a 520-grain carbon arrow and a 2-blade head completely through a broadside bull at ten yards, splitting a rib vertically on the off side. The bull was coming straight to my guide, Ted, who got a great view of my arrow blowing through the moose and flying off into the bush. It took me longer to find the arrow than the bull.
Would a three- or four-blade head have done that? Maybe, maybe not. But I know I never have to worry about penetration with the heads I now use. Bloodtrails have never been a problem either, so long as I put the arrow where it was supposed to go,
Good to hear Donnie! That is one bow I regret letting go of. That bow about shot itself! if you EVER decide to cut it loose, give me a holler.
When I shot this spike, he duck/spun on me and I caught him in the shoulder :banghead: ...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v75/Rugerfan/ResizeofIMG_0727.jpg)
The 50lbs Border zipped the Steelforce tipped GT thru the shoulder and exited the lower neck on the other side. If I were to look at a three bladed head, it would be in the woodsman type config 3:1 ratio. As long as the 2 bladers' keep puttin in the freezer, I'll keep on launching them.
JL
The 3 blade is self defeated for best penetration by design. Any resistance such as a bone on any one blade pushes the rest of the head into a wedge. A 4 blade is only slightly better because the blade opposite it can cut the wedge away, but still drags on the other 2.
True - compond shooters don't need to worry too much about this with the power they are shooting.
The 2 blade pulls the most penetration out of any setup.
Donnie;
Remember, those dollars you spend locally aren't just dollars, they are your voice as well.
Go back to that compound shop and tell the owner you would sure like to spend your money with him, but he does't have quite what you are looking for. If he is any kind of buisnessman at all, he will have an order catalog on the counter in under a minute, and the broadheads you watn in less than a week.
If he doesn't, well, you know what to do with your money.
I'd say "case closed" on this one.
Terry,
Just out of curiosity... What grn arrow and about what speed are you shooting? (Again... I'm at 560 gns. @ 170 fps.) I'm curious how a set up like mine would stack up against a buffalo. I know it has everything to do with shot placement, and I know a lot of fellas around here shoot arrows that are a lot heavier than mine, and are doing some terrific things on some purdy big animals. I guess... in short... since I have never taken a large animal with Traditional equipment.... I just cant help but wonder "How my Set-up" will perform of a large animal, such as a Roosevelt. Course... I'll never know until I drop the string on a deer or an elk... and somewhere in the back of my mind.... I know that I will be pleasantly surprised. ;)
LEFTY_IN_WV,
Thanks for the links! For now... I am shooting carbon shafts.... so I will be looking into something that is threaded, for the insert. But... I am already messing around with cresting... and I'm already eyeballing some cedar shaft material! (Thanks again!)
Dwarf,
Yep... this is a great place to learn. I mostly read... and really haven't posted much. But... in the last 2 or so years of reading... I have picked up a lot of stuff from this cyber Traditional community. I have yet to have anyone actually show me how to shoot my recurve. Most of my present ability came through MANY years shooting a compound... and knowing the basics about arrow flight. But... in truth... I have had to "un-learn" much of what I knew.... and through trial and error... and gleaning what I can off of this site, I'm shooting better now that I ever thought possible!!! So... for some fella who lives up in the Piney forests of the Cascade Mountains... and having no one to watch or to learn from... I feel pretty good about what I have learned over the internet!!! :cool: (Thanks for your input!)
beachbowhunter,
I will definitely ask about the stingers! The more I read... and the more information I get through this thread... the more I am looking at trying to find a 2 blade with the 3:1 slope. Looking at the "Woodsmen"... it looks as though with that much of a taper... you would really get some great penetration. Also... LEFTY_IN_WV gave me a cool link to the X-Block Diamond sharpener. It looks like the cats meow for sharpening... I guess I'll now have to look at the "Accusharp". (Thanks!)
Jason,
Your statement abut not having to worry about penetration with a 2 blade brodhead backs everything I have read about them. As I mentioned earlier... Hunting most of my life in the Rainforests of Western Oregon hasn't provided me with a rich history of "well marked blood trails". I (as well as anyone else who is accustomed to hunting in the rain,) have had to learn how to track a deer or an elk by other means. But... no matter how good of a tracker you are... the shortest track is usually as a result of a deep penetrating arrow... if not a total pass through. So... Id prefer the deep penetration as apposed to a well defined blood trail. But... I'll be happy to have both!!! (Thanks for the input!)
JL,
Boy... I sure am glad you like your "Boarder" as much as you do. I'd suggest that you give it a name, tuck it in at night... and give it a good nights kiss. That way I can sleep better knowing that I'm going to be completely selfish cuz I aint turning this bow loose! :D (Yes... I'm very pleased with the "Hunter II" you sold me! I have no need nor desire to sell it! She's got a good home!)
bowdude,
I have never heard it explained that way... and what you said made perfect since! To be honest... I HAD one of the hottest wheel bows around... and I was never overly impressed with the penetration that I received from my 3 bladed "Thunderheads". At this point... my personal opinion is that with a lot of the newer Brodhead's that are coming out... with their "Chisel" tips, and short ratio slope... you need that kind of speed to punch the arrow through the hide of an animal. I now shoot my recurve more than I EVER shot my other bow, (and I shot it A LOT!) and with the lower speeds... it is becoming obvious that I need to use a little wisdom in choosing a Brodhead! (Thanks for your explanation!) :readit:
Jeff,
Yep... before I go on-line and shop for Brodhead's... I will defiantly find out what my local archery shop can do for me. He is good enough that I think he will be more than happy to accommodate me. He is a good guy with a top notch shop... but he DID give me a funny look when I told him I sold every piece of wheelie equipment I had! (Oh well!... Rome wasn't built in a day, ya know! :D )
troutms,
It is for me! Although... so often times I have always been the "silent reader" on may of these threads... gleaning from the questions of other newbie's. The information provided to me within this thread has been rich... and I know I will refer to it often. I only hope others received as much out of this as I did! :thumbsup:
To All,
I have a long list of broadheads to look up and take a gander at. (I have my homework to do!) So... at the risk of possibly being somewhat repetitive... let me ask you this...
"What would be the Toughest 2 blade (threaded for inserts,) broadhead available with a 3:1 ratio?" (Hopefully in 125 grns.)
Take care!
Donnie
If I was gonna shoot a 2 blade it would be a STOS..
.
My set up for Buff was not my normal set up for deer. I usually shoot 530 grains at about 180FPS out of 60-65# bows for deer, and 630 grains for hogs. I shot the buff with a 70# Morrison Cougar(no slouch), and a 680 grain arrow with a 2 blade that deflected on a rib....and the 2nd arrow weighed 630 grains with the WW that stopped on an off rib/shoulder.
All I am saying is that most guys set ups as yours, 530 grains @ 170 FPS is enough energy to pass through a deer with plenty of penetration in the dirt as well. I like penetration, and blood trails(if even needed), and lots of tissue damage, that's why I've shot 4 blades at deer for over 22 years. The only time I don't get a pass through is when I hit the off shoulder or leg bone on a quartering away shot, but the damage is already done. I have enough energy to pass through a deer like butter.......the only time it MIGHT be questionable is on a very alert deer as tense muscles and movement may impede penetration. I've only hit one 'my side' shoulder out of over 60 deer with 4 blade Zwickey Deltas, and that was a TX freak that ducked and rolled and lived to see another day.......and there is no guarantee that a 2 blade would have passed through, ...but if he would have ducked and scooted, like a buck I shot this year, I'd rather have my 4 blade go through the liver (as did) than a narrow 2 blade.
I also have only taken 2 spine shots facing me, over 15 years ago, one at 10 yards and one at 12.....both hit the dirt and never made another step even though the arrow didn't pass through. I haven't taken that shot again since then, even though I've had plenty of opportunities to do so.
No doubt a 2 blade will out penetrate a 4 blade, but that sure don't mean a 4 blade wont pass through a deer like he aint there either and leave more damage and blood behind at your specs.
Remember, I'm talking about deer........and if I was to go elk hunting, the head I was using would depend on the bow I I was shooting at the moment.........most likely a 4 blade Zwickey Eskimo.
That being said, you gotta shoot what YOU feel is best for YOU. If you make the perfect shot, all this is moot, but I've always aimed and favored my shots away from the shoulder a bit more most times....ON deer. And its worked like a charm for me. I feel that with my set up the smaller bleeders on the Zwickey is not impeding that much penetration,....One, I get them bleeders razor sharp, they negate arrow pinch to a degree, and make more than a slit putting more blood on the ground.
Some other head my be the charm for you. ......If I had reservations at all, I'd use a narrower 4 blade(Zwickey Eskimo) or a wide 2 blade(Ace Super Express).......and make sure either were very sharp.
What's your gut telling you?.......that's what you need to go with whether its a wide or narrow 2 or 4 blade.....and if you go elk hunting you might want to opt for a different head.......no big deal. Just work on putting the arrow in the right spot.
I hope Jason and the other's comes back.......they've got some good advise as well.
Proof's in the puddin'!!! First pic is from my Iowa buck...over 200# fielddressed, second pic, Mo doe, 3rd pic, almost missed...lol, Iowa doe!!! Plus, 2 more Mo does, both liver, and back of far lung, all dead! All taken with the Magnus 4 blade (2 blade with bleeder)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/IMGP6467.jpg)
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/IMGP5945.jpg)
This last pic, to me anywho, looks like that broadhead was still spinning!!!!
(http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b147/fireman_3311/IMGP6746.jpg)
Paul... I find it interesting that your relationship with Paul Shafer didn't lead you toward 4 bladed Zwickey Eskimos... I've got a lot of respect for Shaf, but am a Magnus I fan from way back, like you.
(http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d171/IronBull_/BloodTrail_e.jpg)
I would assume that you have heard of simmons land sharks, If not it would do you no harm to check into the interceptors.Ive killed deer with woodsmans,nugent,bear,magnus,zwickey,these are all great heads but,never have i seen a more devistating wound channel that is produced by the 190 gr. interceptor. I believe 160gr interceptors are the glue on type.Jonesy
Somebody called them "Flying Hatchets"...nope, they are "Flying CLEAVERS"...Magnus I heads with a steel insert. Awesome heads.
I'm a big fan of the Grizzly Grande 190 2 blade broadhead. I really like the toughness of that broadhead and have been impressed w/ the Ashby reports on splitting bone via twisting torque force rather than cutting through bone with a sharp edge
But still I was not completely happy with that broadhead. :knothead:
I was considering fabricating a new line of broadheads and conducted a fair amount of research into the matter. I came up with a hardened tool steel 2 bladed head 3 1/2 long by 1 9/16 wide. The broadhead has the ability to be used either 2 or 4 blade. My finished product is very nice, but on the pricey side to produce. Knowing how "Frugle" some of we archers are I don't think I could have made much of a profit, considering the cost of production.
I have recently found a much simpler solution. :thumbsup:
My issue defined was I wanted a four bladed head for deer/antelope sized game (animals which would not have severe penetration issues) and a two bladed head for the larger species w/ heavier bone. I wanted the single bevel cutting surface and a 3 to 1 ratio. I like the ability to adjust the weight of the braodhead by using various sized Broadhead screw-in adapters. From the low end of 30 grains aluminum to the upper end of 125 grain steel, there are quite a few options to aid in tuning the arrow/broadhead to the bow. Admittedly I would like a broadhead 1/2" wider than the Grizzly Grande. I do not believe there is one ideal broadhead for all applications. However, I am very pleased with my most recent modification to the Grizzly Grande 190. Using a cutoff wheel on my Dremel tool I was able to cut a thin curf (Slot) into the ferrule of the Grizzly. This allowed me to insert a Magnus bleeder blade, thus converting the Grizzly to a four bladed head. I've modified the Magnus bleeders to snap off at heavy impact w/ bone. This modification is simple enough to do that I do not feel the need to continue on with trying to get my custom broadhead into production. The cost of Grizzly's is next to nothing and the bleeders are cheap too. :campfire:
This season I'm going to give my big Grizzly's a try as a four blade on some deer sized animals. And I'll hang with the original 2 blade configuration when I hunt Idaho Elk.
just 2 more pennies worth of useless commentary
Terry,
Yep... I agree... I will definitely go with what I think will be the best broadhead for my set up. Unfortunately... at this point and time in my career as a Traditional archer... I don't have enough experience to listen to my "Gut Feeling". So... I will have to rely upon "Informed Opinions". :thumbsup: So... after reading some fantastic information from this thread... and spending much of yesterday evening searching on the web for all the broadheads mentioned... I'm heavily looking at a 2 blade.... possibly something within the Magnus line... or STOS. (Probably "Magnus") Again... thanks so much for the great info!!!
fireman,
Nice looking shots! I'm just happy to pop the two lungs! Cool photos! :cool:
Jonesy,
Yes... I have, in fact I was looking at them last night. Although... with the curved edge of the broadhead... I was wondering how easy it would be to sharpen them. I know that a straight edge would be easier to sharpen. (At lest it would be for me... :) ) Do you have any experience sharpening the Simmons... and if so... was it difficult to get an even edge on it? (Thanks)
Roger,
The more I look as the Magnus... the more I think I like them. I also saw on their web-site that they have a lifetime warrantee. They will replace any Brodhead that you "break." (That sounds cool!) :cool:
Mike,
Your design sounds interesting. Yes... a lot of archers like to pinch their pennies... while others don't care about the cost... they just want the best. Just look at today's bows. Some folks are paying well over a thousand dollars for a bow... and that is on BOTH sides of the fence! (Just a thought.) :thumbsup:
I looked at the Grizzly's and wasn't real comfortable with the double angles on the blade. If I'm gonna sharpen them... I will probably want to start with a single... angled edge to learn on... then maybe one day consider either the Grizzly or the Simmons, "Shark". (Thanks for your input!)
Take care!
Donnie
Donnie, at first yes, it was a little difficult to sharpen them but, with consistancy you will find the correct swing/ on the file. I used a new basterd file and a ceramic rod to finish.Jonesy
Great thread.
Does anyone know if the MAGNUS II heads that have the bleeder blades have the ENTIRE edge sharp? It looks like only a small amount is sharpened near the tip. At least it looks like that small area is sharpened more than the area behind it that goes to the end of the edge.
Anyone?
Thanks
Nala
Nala, the entire leading edge is sharpened on all Magnus bleeders. The rear trailing edge is also sharpened on the Stingers only.
No problem with my 'ole Razorheads and bleeders !
Good huntin !
DR