Will footing your carbons stiffen the spine? How much?
It's like adding a few grains to the front (10 or 20 maybe)...not enough for anybody to notice.
What size aluminum for a 3000 Vapor shaft?
Not sure Bud....if I were to take a guess, I'd think that 21XX or 22XX will fit. I use 2020/18/16 on the Beman/Axis shafts and they are skinnier.
Thanks !
Just did a search and found out a 2114 will do the job.
Leroy: If your aluminim footing doesn't extend past the actual point insert it will have zero effect on spine.
Thanks Bill
Leroy 2114 will work, also it is like adding point weight and will weaken spine, but you or I or anybody else would not notice. I am gonna do my first ones. I am shooting CXs and I have been told a 2216 will work, I will let ya know! Shawn
Thanks Shawn. Let me know how it works out.
I found 2413 slide right on AD Nitro Stingers.
Any one know what size aluminum works for a Beman ICS Hunter 400?
I just tried 2020 and it is just too tight. Maybe 2117?
Tried 2117 and they work great on the ICS Hunter 400s, Thanks Wudstix
Guys it's easy to figure what size to use. Measure the OD of your shaft and then go here.
http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=2;t=000028
Use page one.
Thanks for the chart Dan! It'll come in real handy.
Guys, I have a couple of questions regarding the footing process.
1)How tight is the footed part supposed to be with the shaft, because I can just slide a 2213 over my CX Rebel hunter. I don't have to force it or anything, and didn't know if a 2216 would be a little better because it would be a little more snug if I'm right.
2)What is the correct length of the footed part, like 1", 2", etc.. and what do you install them with? I was thinking super glue, but don't know the right answer.
Mark,
As for adhesive, I've had pretty good luck using an automotive epoxy called JB Weld. Whatever adhesive you consider using it should be a slow dry epoxy. Stay away from the super glues, the hot melts and the 5 minute epoxys. Rough up and degrease both inside and outside.
:saywhat:
Just curious guys........what is the objective you are after in doing footing? I am new to carbons.
Thanks,
Bjorn
Depending on the carbon...it takes a very durable shaft and makes it indestructable (I guess almost is in order, but damn near).
I've been playing around with it for awhile on easton axis arrows. Don't use anything but JB weld or when you do hit something hard the aluminum will slide back a little. It works to strengthen the tip but I've noticed now my shafts break about 2" from the nock if I hit a rock.
Hey guys, any comments on how long the "foot" is supposed to be?
When I do it, I'll do two inches in the front and a half or so at the nock...on the Beman/Axis arrows I find they have three weak points, the point end, right behind the insert, the nock end.
Try it and see what your results are...breaking two inches form the nock seems strange, but who knows what happens when high speed meets unmovable object.
Won't hurt, that's for sure.
I'm playing around with some Axis FMJ's 400s right now and found that a 1916 gave a snug fit. I cut one 4" long so that when I draw it comes up on the shelf. Wondered if it would act alittle like a tapered shaft or provide more flech clearance. Bareshafted just alittle weak at 29" with 100gr insert and 175gr point out of a 54lb @ 27" longbow cut to center. Haven't fletched it yet.