Hi,
I have built the arrow tapering tool (shaft taper, not nock taper) that someone of you invented. I really love to taper my arrows with this simple but effective tool but the sand paper just needs to be replaced too often. I am also thinking about using rasps but I need some infos or better pics how the rasps are arranged and how coarse they need to be.
Thanks,
Joe
I based mine on the how-to model on this site and replaced the sandpaper with a couple of mill bastard files. Works great!
Did you put the files lengthwise in your jig? Isn't a file made for removing wood when it is pushed forward and not sideways? I thought you will have to cut your file in several pieces and then mount them vertikal in the jig?
Thanks,
Joe
Yes, lengthwise. No need to cut them since the rows of teeth on the files are at 45 degree angles. You may have to run the drill in reverse if you set the files like I did. The angled rows of teeth actually worked like screw threads when I ran a shaft through the first time. If this happens, try running the shaft in reverse. The files work very quick and leave shafts reasonably smooth. Also, I used double sided foam tape to hold the files in place.
Thanks Luke, I will buy me two files and try it. Your remark about the thread effect is very helpful. I will arrange the files in a manner that I will not need to drive them in reverse (this always loosens the chuck of my drill).
I was using 2 double cut files which were attached to angle iron using magnets. The magnets allow me to remove them and clean them regularly.
The setup worked but the shafts would ride up and down, so I recently switched the setup to one file and a wood guide with a 1/4 circle routered into the base of it. The 1/4 circle is 3/8" diameter. When pushing the shaft into the file, rotate it so that the shaft is rotating upwards into the file (i.e. clockwise if your file is on the left, counter-clockwise if your file is on the right). The friction of the shaft against one file will keep it firmly on the base and consistent with the space between the magnet and the base of the wood guide.
Using files it only takes 30 seconds going slowly, so I see no reason to use rasps.
If it wouldnt be too much trouble,Some people like me,need pics.It shure would help,if you could post some of your setup.
Thanxx.
Here's my setup. But I like the sound of Barry's better. I may try it. Ignore the mess. Besides A Clean Work Shop Is The Sign Of A Sick Mind....
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/haldol/taper%20tools/3d42a8f5.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v90/haldol/taper%20tools/51aca432.jpg)