Howdy all!
UPDATE QUESTION:
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If I use a lumber yard board, not stave, should I take the board (If in good shape) and just use the front of the board as the back of the bow? Just like that? OR do I still need to cut the board-face down to one growth ring like I would a stave?
Thank you guys for all the input! Have a great day HH
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I'm not sure if this is the right place for this post or not but, here goes.
I am thinking about making my first bow. I have been reading and looking at stuff and have a few questions.
I read The Ferret's post on making an osage bow, Tim Baker's on making your first wooden bow, and different articles I found on the web.
I really enjoyed both post. My question is this:
To make a hardwood(hickory probably)wooden bow (Tim Baker post) should I draw it down to one growth ring like The Ferret's post? Or is that just an osage thing?
Unless I mis-read it, (could very well have!!!lol) Tim Baker's post didn't mention getting it down to one growth ring.
What wood do yall think is best for a first time bow-builder?
I have read that hickory is pretty forgiving, do yall agree with that?
Thanks for the advice! HH
HH, with hickory you just remove the bark and presto, there is your bow back. With osage, mulberry and maybe a couple other woods you have to chase a single heartwood growth ring. I have not made a hickory bow yet, but I know it makes a nice bow. Hickory,from what I'm told, is hard to get to the desired moisture content. White oak is a very good wood for a first bow, like hickory, just peel off the bark.
Good luck with your adventure....Terry
Good osage is a great beginner's wood. It is very forgiving of mistakes. I highly recommend Dean Torges' book "Hunting the Osage Bow" (bowyersedge.com) You can make osage in a narrower, rounded-belly desing that allows for some mistakes without causing permanent problems.
Hickory makes a great bow but I would not call it forgiving. It is best in a wide-limbed, flat-belly design which is more difficult to lay out and tiller. Small mistakes are amplified in this design. It is also more difficult to tell when it is dry enough to work in earnest.
If you are using a stave, it is best to get to one growth ring. If you are using a board, selection is critical.
Here is my website: Website (http://residents.bowhunting.net/sticknstring/default.html)
I have a lot on making bows.
Mickey "The Ferret"'s Board bow content is on there too: Ferret\\'s Board Bow Instructions (http://residents.bowhunting.net/sticknstring/brdbows.html)
Have fun and don't be intimidated. It isn't complicated but that doesn't mean it's easy. You can do it though.
John
Dean Torges Video on the Same Subject is Informative too! Besides That, THAT MAN JUST CRACKS ME UP!!! :goldtooth:
Okay guys, I sure appreciate the input!
Yall have a great day, HH
If anybody else has something to say, please do! I love getting feed back.
Just go down to your local Home Depot or equivalent DIY store, select a nice straight grained oak or maple 1x2x6' board. You will have to pick through the stack, not just grab the first board you see. If you have any concerns about the grain running off th edge of the limb you can back it with cloth to keep splinters from raising. There is no need to work the back down to a growth ring on a board bow, if you select one with a fairly straight grain and then glue a backing on. You can use just about any kind of cloth fron canvas to burlap, even denim from an old pair of jeans or fiberglass mesh drywall tape. Do be aware, however that these types of backings WILL NOT prevent string follow!! The best defense against string follow is using good dry wood, and a good job of tillering. If you make your first bow using this method, if you mess up and the bow breaks your only out maybe ten dollars and your time. And you can get started on another bow in the time it takes you to get another board.
Hope this helped, and good luck.
Dale
okay, I think I'm clear now. Thanks Nailbender! Yall have a good day, HH