Tried a new shaft today and here's what it looks like. This shaft is from a right-handed bow at 20 yards. I only have one so I shot it about 20 times with the same results. Is this shaft too limber or too stiff?
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a242/shortstuff5186/000_0837.jpg)
I think if you lowered your nocking point a smidgen and fletched that shaft, it would be right on. The fletching will tend to stiffen the shaft somewhat, and you're not that far off side to side anyway.
JMHO
ttt
Looks about right to me. I usually like them to shoot just a bit tail right (stiff) from a right handed bow.
Looks ready to fletch!
I always prefer my hunting shafts a little on the stiff side. Compensates for the broadhead
Nock right shows "stiff" for a right handed archer.
I don't mess around with leaving an arrow a bit stiff for the broadhead. I get a bare shaft to fly as straight as I can,,, then I know the fletched shaft will be perfect. Try again a couple inches longer and cut off 1/4 at a time to get to the sweet spot.
JDS III
Guys, look at the impact point of the shaft. This is just a hair weak, which will be corrected by the fletching. Right hand bow, right impact, weak shaft. I'd say you are there.
Stept out to 30yrds and see what you got
I'm with JDS, make it fly true. If the target point and broadhead weigh the same there isn't any corrections needed from the fletching other than errors in the release, thus forgiveness. Assuming that the picture is taken straight on and the arrow is leaning nock right then the picture tells me it is too stiff and will be a little critical in tune. Impact location is not what indicates a correct tune. It is the clean flight of the arrow when unfletched. It is true that adding weight to the rear of the arrow in the form of fletching makes an arrow react as if it were stiffer by a slight amount. But that slight amount is a tiny lean of the arrow, almost not worth worrying about as the fletching will correct that slight difference easily. Much more easily and forgiving than correcting the arrow shown above.
You can answer your own question by fletching that shaft and shooting it. Let us know what you find out.
fletching is going to make that arrow act stiffer yet. I also like it to show a tad weak bareshaft. Then fletch it up and paper tune, then move to group testing for fine tuning. Now if my bow would only get back here from the shop, 7 days till I leave for turkeys, 15 days till I get to start hunting them.
A lil nock high is ok for now. Gotta think about clearence issues. It's amazing when ya get a bow dialed in to see an arrow doing goofy things only to find out a nock was tweaked just a tad off. Something so simple that gets so often overlooked. It's one of the reasons I move to paper tuning after I bareshaft, get it a bit closer, then move on to group testing
That is exactly the way I like mine to look.It should be just right with small feathers and the nocking point as it is will give feather clearance. jmo
I'm confused! Some say weak some say stiff,which one?
WHAT SCATTERSHOT SAID....YOUR SHOWING SLIGHTLY WEAK WHICH IS JUST WHAT YOU WANT BEFORE FLETCHING.
well if your confuzed, try a stiffer spined arrow and see what way it goes, that'll give you your answer.
I believe what Scattershot is trying to say is where that arrow hit, not how that arrow flew. Correct me if I'm wrong here SH
Nock right is arrow stiff.
IMPACT right is arrow weak
Nock left is arrow weak
IMPACT left is arrow stiff.
It's two different styles of bareshaft tuning. The impact tuning is in reference to OL's method of group testing and where that arrow flew in relationship to fletched shafts, or in this case the bullseye. instead of HOW the arrow is at impact is what others are referring too when we are saying nock right is stiff. The nock itself is to the right of the point in the target, hence nock right.
I'll say it again.... Fletch that arrow, and it will be where you want it. Currently, it is a tad weak, and that will be cleared up by the stiffening effect of the feathers. Put fletching on the thing, shoot it, and if you don't hit in the bottom of the yellow, I'll be very surprised.
am I right or wrong SS? You're talking where it's impacted the target (right of the bull) instead of how the arrow is angled in the target (nock right).
Hi, Dan. At longer distances, according to O.L. Adcock's tuning guide, the two methods (impact point and nock right/left) should not be mixed. The right impact at 20 yards indicates a weak shaft, but by the pix not much. Up close, you can learn a lot by watching the nock, so I guess we're both right! LOL!
No wonder everyone's confused!
Fletched one up today and here's the results.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a242/shortstuff5186/000_0839.jpg)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a242/shortstuff5186/000_0838.jpg)
For what it is worth I used to work at an archery shop and help guys and galls bare shaft test. Your arrow is under spined. You want a hunting arrow to shoot slightly left and slightly high nock as a right hand shooter. Just the opposite for lefties. When you glue on turkey wing they will fly perfect.
Buck,
I'm curiuos what your setup is, bow weight, draw length tip weight string material and arrow length. Also what arrows are you currently shooting and what have you tried.
Dan, my bow is a Mahaska recurve (50's style)45#@25". My arrows are 26" 1916's with 250 grain heads.My string is B-50. I've tried 2016 but I hear them hit the riser.That arrow looks good don't you think?
There you go. Nice shooting!
Be very careful about judging tuning from the angle of an arrow in the target. This can be EXTREMELY deceiving.
Paper tune or use O.L.'s bare shaft method.
I agree with longbowmark and it also helps on those accidental short draws with weird positions in a hunting shot.
Chort
I second scattershot's comments. Right handed shooter hitting to the right = weak spine.
I wouldn't worry about the left/right it will stiffen with the feathers and bring it on target. You do want to lower your nock, unless you preffer to shoot a bit low.
this is why I use the bare shaft method over paper tuning. Take a loot at the picture buck posted above. The "shaft hit" to the right (very little) meaning weak spine. The "nock" right will be eliminated by the feathers. The feathers will and did fix the issue. Look how straight the feathered arrow is. Now if you were trying to judge using nock point in relation to were the tip went, you would say the spine is stiff and you would be scratching your head wondering why the heavier spined arrows aren't fixing the issue.
I guess I'm tuned.Thanks for your help.
Too bad about all the confusion. Should have been a simple fix. Arrow right, weak spine. Minimal right impact is cured with fletching.If you need any further info, go to O.L. Adcock's website and take a look at his bow tuning section.
Good luck!
Gene
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