Today, I take the AMF Red Wing Hunter out at lunch and shoot about a dozen times and then when drawing back I hear a "Crack"! Examining the bow I find a one inch crack on one side of the bottom limb right at the fade-out. The maple lam pulled away from the fade-out. The glass is fine and the crack does not go though to the other side. Anyone ever fixed anything like that? The crack is open a little when strung but closes tight when not strung.
Any suggestions? I don't want to give up on it yet. I've had it for two months and been shooting it 3-4 times a week.
Dave you can try stringing it, dribbling some thin CA glue in there and then unstringing and clamping. Not sure how long I'd trust it though.
You can do what you want but I don't think I would trust glue to fix a problem with that much stress on it. That area is weak now.
Just thought I'd ask an obvious question, the string is dacron, right? I have seen this happen on older bows with the low stretch materials. CKruse
I only use b-50 string.
One time a Black widow owned by a freind seperated from the limb tip to about 18 inches up the limb. We refilled it with smooth on and used coins on both sides then c clamped it all the to the tip every 1 inch or so. That was 3 yrs ago. It's the only bow he shoots. We cleaned it out with a little acetone. I used a sliver (smaller than a toothpick)of fiberglass to push glue in as far as I could. A little extra is good it will squeze out when you clamp it down. Open it as far as you can without splitting it further before putting the glue in. Hope it works for you.
Traditional Beagle, Glue is
about all that holds laminated bows together anyway. I'd try it nothing to loose, If it gave way in that area wouldn't cause too much personal dammage.
Ron
I might just try it. I think epoxy might be more flexable than CA though.
I've done that repair on a 35 year old Shakespeare bow. I put the riser in a vise, pulled on the limb (carefully)to spring the crack open, and poured all medium density super glue into it I could. In my case the crack went all the way through so I just let a bunch drip on the floor. When "full" of glue, I let off the pressure and put a c-clamp on it. Don't use the accelerator, you're not in a hurry here. It's shot 100's of arrows since. I would recommend, however, covering the glass (masking tape should be fine) and cutting a couple of blocks the shape of the limb so you can clamps squarely and not damage the glass. As mentioned above, you have nothing to loose, the bow's already broken. When you shoot it after the repair, be sure to wear glasses and perhaps a heavy coat until you trust it.
After reading the replies on the Trad talk site I might be persuaded to think that if it is the glue starting to fail because it is old then You may be at a loss. I guess you have to decide how you would feel if it had a total failure, nothing left to hang on the wall.
Ron
Well, right now I'm out a $100 either way. So I might as well try to fix it. I don't really need it hanging on the wall if it won't shoot. It would just make me mad every time I saw it. Let alone the grief I will get if the wife finds out the bow I just bought last month is broken :eek:
I have a bow that has a small crack in it as well right in the handle fade. I am sure it is that my fade was not done correctly and it is a 68# bow. I may try and fix it with glue, as stated above, and lighten the poundage to something in the 50-55# range.
Let me know if it works for you. Thanks.
I would try the superglue fix.Nothing to lose at this point.A bow that you can't shoot is just a chunk of wood anyway. jmo
Well, just to report back. I used professional strength loctite CA glue. I clamped it up and let it dry. You can't even tell where it seperated.
I have shot about 200 arrows or more since then with no problems so far. I am going to continue to baby it. At least I'll get my money's worth out of it.
LOL good deal!