I am currently bidding on a lot of the old O.D. green broadheads with bleeders, and wondered if anyone has ever used them, and how hard the bleeder blades are to come by. I have used all different types in the past, but seem to be drawn to these for some reason. Maybe the nostalgia. Thanks, Mark :wavey: :coffee:
Never used them, but if you have an attraction to them....get 'em.
Flatlander,
I shoot those out of my longbow and they work. Tip is kinda soft, when you sharpen them put alittle bit of a chisel on em'. I agree with Jerry. I think what brought me back to them was the nostalgia.
Bill
Mark,
The old green Bear head is all I have used for 40 years or more, with the exception of 3 deer, that was taken with other heads. You can get new bleeders, but I don't think they fit the old heads as well as the old ones did. As said above, put a chisel point on them.
Dunno, but they worked for Mr.Bear! Frank
I look at those broadheads like deer rifle hunters look at the Winchester 30-30 or bird hunters the Winchester mod12 pump. The old standby that probably killed more deer and elk than any other broadhead. They are easy to sharpen and those 'soft' points were strong enough to break the big bone on an elk's shoulder in three pieces, I got physical proof! They aren't fancy but they work! Those bleeders are easy to get but I don't use them because I go with the old Judd Cooney philosophy that a 2 blade does alot of damage when cutting swaths inside whereas a 3 or 4 blade is held stationary by the opposing blades. Also 2 blades get that much more penetration. And yes, chisel is the way to go.
This is nice to know...I just found about a half dozen in my dad's old arrow boxes. Anyone know the weight of em?
i might get soem that are glued on some old fred bear arrows
i use em but not with the blades dony need em :archer:
145 grain at least thats what all my old ones are I've got some old gold ones that have to be over 30 years old.Hey FALK where are you? Your the broadhead expert. The newer S>S> ones come in 110 grain and 145 grain with the bleeder blades
The glue on light green ones that I have weigh in at 112-115 without the bleeder. The bleeder goes about 7 gr. Hap
Sounds like what I have Hap...thanks.
OK guys, time for a dumb question. Several of you talked about putting a "chisel" point on them. Can anyone clarify this or tell me how because I would like to do it right when I get them. Thanks for your input! Mark
Like this
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/OzarkRamblr/Archery/IMG_0705.jpg)
(http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n14/OzarkRamblr/Archery/IMG_0706.jpg)
I've used them all most exclusively for over 30 years,they come with a chisel point, so just shoot em' how they come.
I havn't bothered with the bleeders for years as they often break off anyway.
Their a great head.
As Hap said:112-115 as a glue on without the bleeders-145 is the nominal weight with the short aluminium screw-in adapter. New bleeders are available but I don't use them.(Actually my dad doesn't use them-I save the Razorheads for his arrows and put other heads on mine) Those old carbon steel Razorheads are some of the easiest to sharpen heads ever made. The "chisel" tip was Fred's way of preventing tip curl and helping the head to get through bone. It helps compared to a needle point but the chiseled tip is still rather thin and it is fairly easy to start a roll backward. I have been putting a diamond/tanto tip on Dad's for a couple of years. Seems like a good tip profile and is easy to do.
Tree Man,
Wow, this is a small world! I used to live in Pueblo and deliver Budweiser to the Canon city area. Killed my first Mulie in Texas Creek. Man I sure miss the mountains! Mark