It's JGK1269 fault :goldtooth:
It's been a year since my last build.
Cocobolo and Bocote riser and Veneers, shooting for 45@28"
I made the veneers last year, If you want to see. What did you do today 2023 page 53 is the start
Just a few pages and some info :thumbsup:
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=177832.1040
These are for the mosaic strip
Walnut and Canary wood, NOT to fancy
(https://i.imgur.com/FczoWnR.jpg)
These are flat grain coco, I made some edge grain too. This pair is .023 thick
(https://i.imgur.com/ef2ZtHI.jpg)
Coco at the top with some sap wood and Bocote on the bottom.
(https://i.imgur.com/smNVmlU.jpg)
I got the riser woods squared up today.
(https://i.imgur.com/0pTqphn.jpg)
And the Mosaic guyed up.
(https://i.imgur.com/5OEhMTD.jpg)
No way, I basically just asked for over this on the recent reflex thread not realizing you'd started this thread!
Looking forward to it, Mark. :thumbsup:
Quote from: dbeaver on March 27, 2024, 11:21:27 AM
No way, I basically just asked for over this on the recent reflex thread not realizing you'd started this thread!
Just a plain Recurve :thumbsup:
Lol I switched the 50s style and 60 inch :knothead:
I'm bringing it.
I'M NOT FEELING IT, NOT ENOUGH CONTRAST. ??????????????????????
I have some Hard rock maple and Padauk
I could spray some Shellac on it and see?
Maybe I could take the walnut and Canary out and use the Padauk?
(https://i.imgur.com/60wkKnD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7ClRywe.jpg)
I sanded 2 lams on my .005/.002 sled, It's .005 coming out of the fades and changes to .002 to the tip.
(https://i.imgur.com/u9IUUF6.jpg).
I sanded all the epoxy off all the sides and cut it in half.
Resaw and milled them to .050
(https://i.imgur.com/vAMyMp3.jpg)
Also Resaw and mill the strip to .037
(https://i.imgur.com/2owdQXQ.jpg)
I put some Tape on the riser blocks and double side tape them down.
(https://i.imgur.com/eouR0Tw.jpg)
This double side tape It's .003 thick and works really good, The tape is for holding Insulation to metal buildings.
Put it down and peel of the protector. The template is taped to the riser block so I can fold it over on the tape carefully.
(https://i.imgur.com/4xeMYqt.jpg)
Off to the band saw to cut between the lines and Pattern sand them.
Very good Max. I just found out that my understanding of the phrase:bring it on,is not correct. Language :knothead:
Quote from: Buemaker on March 27, 2024, 08:10:25 PM
Very good Max. I just found out that my understanding of the phrase:bring it on,is not correct. Language :knothead:
You had it correct Bue :thumbsup:
bring it on
phrase of bring
INFORMAL
used to express confidence in meeting a challenge.
Do we need Donuts today, Yes bring it on :thumbsup:
or
You have your fist up for a fight, Bring it on
Okay, thanks, good to know :)
This was the last one I made.
No white and black in the mosaic strip on the one's I am making.
(https://i.imgur.com/g1VAEnI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5lDFUtc.jpg)
1st stripe cooking
It's easer to make 2 riser at the same time ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/3lVSZeF.jpg)
I was going to wait and see, but Mark is taking too long to get this done... :biglaugh:
What's a 50's style recurve?
Mark
Fine looking veneers! Real eye candy :shaka:
Quote from: mmattockx on March 28, 2024, 10:47:27 PM
I was going to wait and see, but Mark is taking too long to get this done... :biglaugh:
What's a 50's style recurve?
Mark
Not as much deflex
(https://i.imgur.com/X76BdJU.jpg)
I hear other Bowyers say it and there bows look like the picture above. :dunno: :biglaugh:
It's going to take some time, I'm only working 4 hours or so a day :tongue: :)
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Thanks onetone
Looking good my friend.
:thumbsup:
C'mon Mark, what you doin the other 8 hours of the workday? :bigsmyl:
Looking good (but too slow) :clapper:
Quote from: kennym on March 29, 2024, 08:10:29 AM
C'mon Mark, what you doin the other 8 hours of the workday? :bigsmyl:
Looking good (but too slow) :clapper:
Just get some :coffee: and :campfire:
"I dont always shoot a recurve but when I do its a 50 style" Says the most interesting man in the world :biglaugh:
Quote from: Mad Max on March 29, 2024, 07:24:18 AM
Not as much deflex
(https://i.imgur.com/X76BdJU.jpg)
I understand, thanks.
Mark
Quote from: Stagmitis on March 29, 2024, 09:11:05 AM
"I dont always shoot a recurve but when I do its a 50 style" Says the most interesting man in the world :biglaugh:
:)
Yep
I sanded all the epoxy off the risers and they look good with the Padauk and some Alcohol.
(https://i.imgur.com/zwBTIyC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KYG2DLf.jpg)
I printed more templates and cut windows so I could see the first strip and line up for the next strip, double side tape again and ready for the bandsaw and pattern sanding.
(https://i.imgur.com/ZsxkCrv.jpg)
I got my taper lams, parallel lams and veneers milled to width, also measured the stack thickness so I would know exactly how thick to mill the last lams (Maple parallels).
Bamboo tapers for under the back glass and Hard rock maple for the belly side.
(https://i.imgur.com/FhSSUMZ.jpg)
This is "The hog thickness sander", I love it, very accurate, I use my Grizzly Drum sander but I finish everything with the Hog, NO snipe. It's a push/pull type, Just keep the lam moving and a final pass with no adjustment and it's good. :bigsmyl:
I can sand short pieces (scrap 6") with it for over/under lays, tip wedges and Butt wedges.
It has a solid aluminum drum and very fine table adjustment for the thickness.
(https://i.imgur.com/cTgrx1A.jpg)
That is looking beautiful Max !! :clapper:
I really like that accent mosaic line through the veneer splice, matching the outer lams to the core lam with the single dark dots creates a very cool look !!!
Max, I have seen how the sandpaper is fastened to the drum, I am thinking 40 grit clothes backed paper that is kind of stiff, can that be used? Bow is coming along nicely.
Quote from: Buemaker on March 29, 2024, 07:20:10 PM
Max, I have seen how the sandpaper is fastened to the drum, I am thinking 40 grit clothes backed paper that is kind of stiff, can that be used? Bow is coming along nicely.
I use the 8-1/2" x 11" 80 grit. You can get it anywhere.
There is a slot across the roller and a 1/8" round rubber bar you wedge in the slot. :thumbsup:
I bought a big O ring, and cut it up into 3" long pieces for spare's
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Thanks Noah70 :goldtooth:
Rubber bead that window companies use to lock window screen onto aluminum frames works perfectly also.
The figure in that riser wood looks like the pics we see of the storms in the atmosphere of Jupiter ...wowza! Rock on!
Quote from: onetone on March 29, 2024, 10:41:40 PM
Rubber bead that window companies use to lock window screen onto aluminum frames works perfectly also.
The figure in that riser wood looks like the pics we see of the storms in the atmosphere of Jupiter ...wowza! Rock on!
I got those from Rosewood Arc. I said I want nice boards, Both boards had "best boards in the house"
I made the veneers from it to.
(https://i.imgur.com/22cC7um.jpg)
Here's a 50's forward handle bow I've wanted to build. Love the simplicity of the form and construction. From a how-to magazine article which featured, but was not written by, Howard Hill.
[attachment=1]
I've come across that picture many times in my searches :thumbsup:
I have a copy of that booklet somewhere. I ordered it from Kitteridge Bow Hut and used it to build my first bow in 1983. I seem to recall most of ot was written by Tom Jennings.
Quote from: Mad Max on March 29, 2024, 09:37:36 PM
I use the 8-1/2" x 11" 80 grit. You can get it anywhere.
There is a slot across the roller and a 1/8" round rubber bar you wedge in the slot. :thumbsup:
I bought a big O ring, and cut it up into 3" long pieces for spare's
Mark,
Can you take a pic or two of the drum and how they fasten the sandpaper? I have a home made thickness sander that might need to be modified to work the same. Also, can you measure what the drum diameter is as well?
Thanks,
Mark
2" roller 3" long
The slot is .600 deep and .400 deep
(https://i.imgur.com/VzvTPhC.jpg)
I use this rule to press the 1/8" rubber into the slot.
(https://i.imgur.com/VsFyt8D.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HKLEkfj.jpg)
1st---One end of the sand paper goes in the deep slot, crease that edge
2nd-- I use the last used sand paper next to the new one to show me where to bend it.
(https://i.imgur.com/MveSCxY.png)
Thank you, sir. How deep are the slots?
Mark
Quote from: mmattockx on March 30, 2024, 05:33:18 PM
Thank you, sir. How deep are the slots?
Mark
.600 and .400
FWTW Mark, the slot in mine is canted away from center and arrow indicates direction of rotation.
Quote from: onetone on March 30, 2024, 08:03:35 PM
FWTW Mark, the slot in mine is canted away from center and arrow indicates direction of rotation.
I can't see it down in there, but it could be. :dunno:
mine rotates the same as your drawing. :thumbsup:
Second glue up is done.
(https://i.imgur.com/G6KWu8g.jpg)
I think the inclination of the slot helps to keep the sandpaper in place ...
Bue made a suggestion of using a cloth backed abrasive. I am going to give that a try.
Quote from: onetone on March 31, 2024, 10:03:14 AM
I think the inclination of the slot helps to keep the sandpaper in place ...
Bue made a suggestion of using a cloth backed abrasive. I am going to give that a try.
The thicker the sand paper the more it want to crack in the bend where the rubber strip holds it in.
I bought some really good sand paper with a more durable backing, Doesn't work well on the Hog, so I use it for other things. ;)
Quote from: Buemaker on March 29, 2024, 07:20:10 PM
Max, I have seen how the sandpaper is fastened to the drum, I am thinking 40 grit clothes backed paper that is kind of stiff, can that be used? Bow is coming along nicely.
The O ring strip would be hard or imposable to get in, but a smaller diameter O ring strip could work.
Here is the info on the site.
THE SLOT IN THE 2" SANDING DRUM IS THE KEY TO CHANGING AND USING ANY GRIT
REGULAR SHEET SANDPAPER. NO SANDING SLEEVES TO BUY. ALSO JUST 2 THUMB SCREWS ON THE VACUUM PLATE TO REMOVE AND CHANGE THE SANDPAPER.
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I had the 1/4 HP motor for many years so my investment was low. :thumbsup:
Quote from: onetone on March 30, 2024, 08:03:35 PM
FWTW Mark, the slot in mine is canted away from center and arrow indicates direction of rotation.
I went out there today and looked and mine is the same as yours. ;)
Max, regarding the 1/4 hp, would it be detrimental to go with more hp or possibly be more versatile?
You can only push/pull so hard the 1/4 HP does not bog down any. ;)
The second glue up with the strips looks good.
I have my riser on the template to pattern sand it to fit the glue up form.
Off to the band saw.
(https://i.imgur.com/t8FZpn5.jpg)
I have it close to the pattern and will run it threw.
(https://i.imgur.com/zlI3hxN.jpg)
Nice fit to the form with clear glass and my taper.
(https://i.imgur.com/6F9F59l.jpg)
Max, I fit the back of the riser the same as you, actually I think I was the one who posted the method in the first place, here on TG. One question, do you use a template when you grind the belly side too? I have been mostly free handid that side.
Quote from: Buemaker on April 02, 2024, 08:56:13 AM
Max, I fit the back of the riser the same as you, actually I think I was the one who posted the method in the first place, here on TG. One question, do you use a template when you grind the belly side too? I have been mostly free handid that side.
Free hand :thumbsup:
I have a lot going on with my rental builds so it's going to be slower. :banghead:
Time to do the belly ramps, I double side tape the pattern on the riser and marked 1/2" lines for 2" to sand the fades, 1/16" at 1" and 1/8" at 2".
(https://i.imgur.com/C1JqqYK.jpg)
Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them.
I use the line on the template as a gauge to keep a nice curve past the 2" mark.
(https://i.imgur.com/CiNrekn.jpg)
You can get bumps and dips when doing this so I use this flexible rule to see them, just some light pressure on the rule and you can see them. ;)
(https://i.imgur.com/HScRtBi.jpg)
I did a dry run, looks good
Ready for glue up.
(https://i.imgur.com/TD8VtEA.jpg)
Good looking fades on that baby Max.... :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Quote from: Kirkll on April 04, 2024, 09:08:09 PM
Good looking fades on that baby Max.... :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Thanks :thumbsup:
"Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them."
This is a very good plan, don't ask how I know this... :laughing:
Also fades can cause a lot of problems when not thinned enough, even delamination from hinging right there if not thinned enough.
You doin a fine job my friend!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I've snapped a few fades off a riser. That'll end your dry fitting right there. Might keep you out of the shop for a few days while your tails between your legs.
Quote from: kennym on April 05, 2024, 08:27:44 AM
"Fades are done except the last 1/2", I wait just before glue up to finish them."
This is a very good plan, don't ask how I know this... :laughing:
You doin a fine job my friend!! :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
I think you showed me this :thumbsup:
Flexible ruler was a good idea and waiting with the tips. I have a couple broken ones in the scrap chest.
Quote from: Buemaker on April 05, 2024, 11:25:04 AM
Flexible ruler was a good idea and waiting with the tips. I have a couple broken ones in the scrap chest.
You can always add a 3/16" overlay on the back of the riser , pattern sand it again, and redo the fades again. :bigsmyl:
Don't ask how I know :tongue:
Good idea Max, but I am not sure about gluelines out in the tips where it is some flexing?
Sanding out those long lean fades can be kinda scary sometimes, and I've broken the corners a few times on certain types of wood that is more brittle in nature. I do all mine free hand on the edge sander table using 36 grit paper after drawing the pattern on the block. It's amazing how accurate you can sand these things to a feather edge. If there are any slight wiggles I can feel, I use a spindle sander sleeve with a piece of 1.25" closet rod dowel to smooth things out by hand, and hand sand the very tips with 80 grit flat on the band saw table.
With that being said.... I always use a power lam on one piece bows to extend the fades out further. I just hate having limbs bending hard at the fades with a hinge lock to them. The PW's eleminate that completely and pushes the working portion out a wee bit from the riser fades.
.02 cents worth.... Kirk
Quote from: Buemaker on April 06, 2024, 07:13:20 AM
Good idea Max, but I am not sure about gluelines out in the tips where it is some flexing?
The whole limb bends, it's glued too :thumbsup:
I have a lot going on for being retired :dunno:
Rental building is going to be good for me if it goes threw. :jumper:
I had to go to The Tennessee Classic also. :saywhat:
My form is setup and ready for glue up.
My mule tap has a loop knot tied in the middle, it helps me starting from the center of the riser.
I use a 1/4" pin for the stack and riser on the back. I use furniture wax in the hole and a inch or so around the hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/oNaMMhD.jpg)
Lam stack are in order and will flip 1 at a time.
(https://i.imgur.com/HvhNzwg.jpg)
More A than B
(https://i.imgur.com/1D0fpNL.jpg)
In the hot box until the morning, door is cracked open and only 120* or so
(https://i.imgur.com/R044rkv.jpg)