Hey all, I guess this will need to eventually be in the builders forum, but this will be an attempt at a self bow. Received this 72" Osage stave yesterday, goal is a 61" bow with some back set and maybe a tad of recurve. 25" draw at 42-45Lbs. I may or may not back it, but if I do, will be a raw hide backing. Just not so sure how much skill is involved chasing a ring. Any inputs will be appreciated. I will probably not do a build along but just give updates. Should those be posted in builders forum? Later tater!
John
Nice, go slow with draw knife.
That's my problem, slow and steady is a hard thing for the impatient, lol. I have started after watching the primitive archer work on one and I will try to do this! I can think of nothing more satisfying than adding the aspect of a self made bow taken to the field to harvest meat.
When you layout the bow follow the grain with the centerline if it snakes from side to side. Use a semi dull drawknife to chase a single ring on the back. Leave extra wood around any knots, even small seemingly insignificant looking pin knots. At only 25" draw and roughly 40 -45lbs you won't need a rawhide backing on a 61" Osage bow if you do a good job of chasing one ring on the back. A rawhide backing would just add mass that will slow the cast. That's a good looking stave. If you haven't already done so, read Jim Hamm's chapter on this subject in TBB 1. Go slow like Katman said and best of luck!
I'd like to do the same sometime soon. I bought clay Hayes' book. if you haven't already I highly recommend it.
Quote from: goose_ on August 20, 2023, 10:44:29 AM
I'd like to do the same sometime soon. I bought clay Hayes' book. if you haven't already I highly recommend it.
Yes, agree while heartedly. Clay AND Ryan Gill of HuntPrimitive will be my guides. I only mentioned I would back this now because being my first, just not sure I can do the one ring thing.
Will you post pics of the end grain on each end so we can see the ring thickness? Being your first stave bow I'd suggest you going a little longer to start, maybe 62" to 64". You can always make it shorter later. When chasing the back ring start at about 6" from one end, chase the ring from there then move out another 6" and so on. When you get near the middle start on the other end working towards the center. After you get a clean back ring seal the back again. Even if it is well seasoned it can still check when a new ring is exposed. I use spray shellac for this. It is quick and easy to apply and remove later. A quick wipe with denatured alcohol will remove the shellac.
When was the stave cut and how has it been stored since.
Also, do post this on the "Bowyers Bench". Even though you'll get some good advise here going where the bow builders will be more helpful to you.
Your best selfbow building tool is patience. If you feel yourself getting mad, anxious or loosing concentration step away and come back later. If you don't you WILL, more than likely screw up.
Quote from: Pat B on August 20, 2023, 01:33:56 PM
Will you post pics of the end grain on each end so we can see the ring thickness? Being your first stave bow I'd suggest you going a little longer to start, maybe 62" to 64". You can always make it shorter later. When chasing the back ring start at about 6" from one end, chase the ring from there then move out another 6" and so on. When you get near the middle start on the other end working towards the center. After you get a clean back ring seal the back again. Even if it is well seasoned it can still check when a new ring is exposed. I use spray shellac for this. It is quick and easy to apply and remove later. A quick wipe with denatured alcohol will remove the shellac.
When was the stave cut and how has it been stored since.
Also, do post this on the "Bowyers Bench". Even though you'll get some good advise here going where the bow builders will be more helpful to you.
Your best selfbow building tool is patience. If you feel yourself getting mad, anxious or loosing concentration step away and come back later. If you don't you WILL, more than likely screw up.
I will take end pics and post. From what I know, purchased from Etsy, said cured and sealed. U will see what I see when I post. I will post these and others over on the builders group.
Leave it all on the Powwow.
Also don't forget Dean Torges book which you can get right here on Tradgang.
https://digitalstore.tradgang.com/
Ends of the stave. I am just going to start on top with draw knife and practice on each ring until I get by these cracks to see when I get at least a 60 -61"bow.
More pics after an hour of back work, trying to get to a good starting point. Sealed it after working it this time. Nothing done to belly yet.
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Ok, when I start to chase one ring from end to end, looking at this photo, what color is it I want to leave exposed, dark or light? May seem a dumb question, but, u know....anyway, this is one heavy stave, I have been splitting white and red oak staves from trees down in my yard and those are like pine compared to this Osage, is that normal? Ready to get it down a ring or two practicing but I think I can do it.
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Is this crack going to dictate the width of my bow? The top photo is before I cleft off almost half and was definately free of it, I at least it thought it was gone, when I was done, I sealed it with shellac and in less than 30 mins, the crack is back. Should I just split it here?
Hunting The Osage Bow is a must read . If you have the patience to read it it will help you immensely. I have a copy that I bought from Dean at ETAR.years back. He spent some time with me and my daughter and I at our campsite. True gentleman. I will lend it to you if you promise to return it.
Quote from: glenbo on August 23, 2023, 07:46:17 PM
Hunting The Osage Bow is a must read . If you have the patience to read it it will help you immensely. I have a copy that I bought from Dean at ETAR.years back. He spent some time with me and my daughter and I at our campsite. True gentleman. I will lend it to you if you promise to return it.
Thank you for the info and the offer, just ordered it and vol 1 if Trad Bowyers Bible. I need pictures to show how to run one ring. It all looks the same until it sits, then I can see the rings fading in and out, but too late then.🤷🏻♂️
the light rings are early wood and the dark ring is what you're looking for. Take off wood until you start to see the light colored spongy looking earlywood. Keep a shallow angle on the drawknife and use little short pulls on the drawknife to get just below the earlywood to the darker ring. I find it helps if the drawknife is not too sharp. A sharp drawknife wants to "dig in" if the angle is too steep, where as a duller knife digs in and hits the much harder latewood ring and slips over it instead of digging in. The drawknife I've used for this purpose has never been sharpened in 30 years and has a curved blade which really helps. Fancy grapevine handles.