I have seen somewhere in a post prior about tuning your arrows a little weak. The rationale was that in hunting situations we often short draw and the the arrow stiffens. Am I remembering this correctly? Did a search and cannot find it.
Though I don't recall making a post on the subject; I go to great lengths to get a single bareshaft to perform flawlessly with wet matted feathers....then add about 10-15 grains of head insert weight to make it marginally weak...just for the reasons you stated. I can assure you that I don't draw cold the same as I do in the backyard in the summer. If I do?....it's not enough weak to matter...the arrow still shoots great.
I've heard this before as well. I don't buy into it but i do have a riser, both LB and recurve limbs that I keep one arrow set up for. Slight weak for the recurve, slightly stiff for the LB. But a bow cut past center gives you a lot of leaway.
If you bareshaft tune, adding the weight of feathers and glue to the back of the shaft will stiffen it some, so it would be good to leave the bareshaft slightly weak. I compensate for this by fletching my bareshaft, and then cutting the feathers back to the quill. This does a pretty good job, but the quill and the tiny amount of feathers that were not cut off does still guide the bare shaft to some degree, so it straightens out after about 20 yards unless the tuning is way out of whack. This means that my bareshaft tuning only really valid out to about 15 yards, and longer than that is really just for show. I've read that some people will cut off a length of electrical tape that weighs the same as the feathers and glue, and then wrap it around the back of the shaft. I would imagine the electrical tape is flat enough that it doesn't guide the arrow at all, and is probably a better idea than cutting the feathers back to the quill.
I am the guy that posts about wraps of tape to compensate for fletching weight.
I also use shrink tube used for electrical connections. The shrink tube can be cut to weight before installing on the shaft and seems to last better.
I am a big fan of bare shafts. Even once tuned, using them will show you how your form is doing.
I'm a believer in bareshaft shooting on a. Regular basis as well but I know I cannot, and would tend to suspect the average archer cannot, shoot the difference of stiffness and weight feathers add.
That said, I'd it gives you confidence, that is what counts most.
Also I've noticed I have more of a tendency to over draw in hunting situations not short draw. It's something I've become quite conscious of.