The 'over thinking' thread confirmed my initial self-assessment...I'm a platinum card carrying over thinker:)
Ok...that said, I would think many of us shoot our arrows and pick out the best performers (or as I like to think of them...the pets). Its especially true when I'm using woods. But it doesn't really matter what arrow material is being used; there are just some arrows I like better than others; if only for no other reason than....I just like them better.
So for those of you what system do you use? For me, those arrows that I like the most; I place three vertical marker dots just in front of the nock. If I really like it, I then add a different nock color so that I can grab it easily from the arrow rack.
If its pretty good (but not the best) it gets either a two dot or one dot designation. Yet still, those arrows that are barely a passing grade, I place a "5" on the arrow...usually at the cresting. Why a 5? I have a 5 arrow quiver; but I place it in the four slot so its the last arrow I usually grab on the outside edge of my quiver. If I need a follow-up shot for a dispatch arrow, I call this arrow, the 'kick' arrow for the reasoning that you might can figure out. They are usually broken on one shot so it seems a fitting end.
If's it the best arrow of all time (lol), I re-fletch with all white feathers, assign three dots, and a different nock color!!!!! You will see this arrow usually in the inside first slot of my quiver. Naturally, I shoot these very select few golden arrows very well as they are the best of all time...right?
Okay, now that I have had a bit of fun at my own expense, what is your system? Hopefully not nearly as complex as mine!
I don't mark them at all. If they shoot well, I place them in the quiver. If they don't shoot well enough, they simply don't go hunting.
That likely works very well for most folks, but for an over thinker that's insanely primitive :biglaugh:
I'm with Sam!!! :thumbsup:
Honestly, I just have too dang many arrows to mark....
I have 11 boxes of arrows on the shelves downstairs. Most are full, that's about 10 dozen "good" arrows.
My "beaters" are in a 5 gallon bucket. Probly about 30-40 in there....
We probably have the same number of arrows...except mine are scattered from wood to aluminum to carbon. Obviously, I'm a 'little bit' compulsive, but as a border line TP'er, it provides me the confidence I need to shoot well.
It's a lot like a saying in women college sports as I've heard it quite a few times. "If you look good, you feel good, and if you feel good you play good". It's all rooted in confidence.
The arrow marking for me is about 65% mental and 35% useful. I see arrow marking all the time on other people's arrows; but more often than not it's on a 3-D range.
For me I just figure it's not the arrow, it's the guy pulling the string. With wood arrows the good ones stay the "bad" ones fly away.
Quote from: Stringwacker on August 10, 2022, 09:48:37 AM
The 'over thinking' thread confirmed my initial self-assessment...I'm a platinum card carrying over thinker:)
Ok...that said, I would think many of us shoot our arrows and pick out the best performers (or as I like to think of them...the pets). Its especially true when I'm using woods. But it doesn't really matter what arrow material is being used; there are just some arrows I like better than others; if only for no other reason than....I just like them better.
So for those of you what system do you use? For me, those arrows that I like the most; I place three vertical marker dots just in front of the nock. If I really like it, I then add a different nock color so that I can grab it easily from the arrow rack.
If its pretty good (but not the best) it gets either a two dot or one dot designation. Yet still, those arrows that are barely a passing grade, I place a "5" on the arrow...usually at the cresting. Why a 5? I have a 5 arrow quiver; but I place it in the four slot so its the last arrow I usually grab on the outside edge of my quiver. If I need a follow-up shot for a dispatch arrow, I call this arrow, the 'kick' arrow for the reasoning that you might can figure out. They are usually broken on one shot so it seems a fitting end.
If's it the best arrow of all time (lol), I re-fletch with all white feathers, assign three dots, and a different nock color!!!!! You will see this arrow usually in the inside first slot of my quiver. Naturally, I shoot these very select few golden arrows very well as they are the best of all time...right?
Okay, now that I have had a bit of fun at my own expense, what is your system? Hopefully not nearly as complex as mine!
You can buy stick on vinyl arrow numbers and wraps from Lancaster that will work. Many people number their arrows for various reasons. It's a smart process to examine flyers and diagnose arrow issues vs personal issues. I've used it to figure out nock clocking and insert clocking corrections.
At times if I think I have one arrow acting out, I will take a marker and number my arrows. I only shoot wood. That way I can keep track and see if is the arrow or me.
Quote from: Sam McMichael on August 10, 2022, 10:20:38 AM
I don't mark them at all. If they shoot well, I place them in the quiver. If they don't shoot well enough, they simply don't go hunting.
Ah, yup! This is all there is to it :thumbsup:
I number them by the fletching. Not so much pick the best, as to isolate an arrow that consistently does not fly as well as others.
I mark a few with my brace height. Use them to check my brace height. At least one or 2 in my quiver will get a brace height mark. If they don't shoot, they don't go in the quiver. I use those for stumping and plinking.
Just finished a batch of woodies from surewood. As I straighten them the best ones get set to the left. After a week of straightening the six best ones get broadheads and the rest get field tips and judos. Then the broadheads are shot just to be sure....[attachment=1]
Tim B
I only shoot woodies, and make them up in batches of 10 or 12.
As I build and straighten them, the best go to the left on the drying rack, and the worst to the right.
But it's rare to get a "tomato stake", you know, a shaft that simply will not play the game and stays too crooked to make into an arrow.
When the shafts are finished ie. sealed, crowned crested etc etc, the first 3 or 4 on the left get broadheads, the next 3 or 4 get field points, and the rest get blunts for stumping etc. As the ones with blunts break or get un-useable, I start putting blunts on the field point arrows.
Works well for me :biglaugh:
Best
Lex
Guess my thinking runs contrary to the norm. I mark the questionable arrows and use them for " hail mary " shots . As for hunting arrows I will sort them by spine and weight besides straightness, woodies I am referring to. I didn't take "used" aluminum's hunting. Only shot them with BH's a couple times to insure they flew correctly. Carbons are "spined" to find high and low side for nock placement.
Guess I don't shoot or "over think" to well. For my woodies I mark them after the first coat. I put a date of fabrication(M/YY), Alpha indicator for wood type and number. Each wood type gets it's own number sequence. Number sequence starts over each year. I pay attention to how they fly and the less desirable ones down get to ride in the front seat.
:campfire: :coffee: :archer2: :campfire:
I usually tag the ones that are really special...according to special animals I've killed or special places or people or both.
Don't have a recent pic... but this one is in my TG file uploader from 2016..... got quite a few more than that since we sold the buiz n bulding in 2017.....
Thanks for the reminder.... need to update my pic.
[attachment=1,msg3008900]
Quote from: woodchucker on August 10, 2022, 10:36:40 AM
Honestly, I just have too dang many arrows to mark....
I have 11 boxes of arrows on the shelves downstairs. Most are full, that's about 10 dozen "good" arrows.
My "beaters" are in a 5 gallon bucket. Probly about 30-40 in there....
I am with woodchucker I have too many and to tell you the truth there might be hand full that didn't fly right because they didn't spin true.
Nice T, I've seen that pic before and many of your additions. I'm sure I missed a few!!!
Great idea on the rack sir!
Ya'll won't like this....
I mark my arrows with colored stripes, using electrical engineering color code (aka resistor code: black=0, brown=1, etc.). I use two colored stripes or a broad stripe with thin borders under the feathers to show the spine. Between feathers and nock I use stripes to show the arrow weight, not including the point. On the foreshaft, about halfway from crest to point, each arrow gets a single stripe or two stripes to show arrow number. It's easy to notice during target practice if a certain arrow isn't flying or grouping as well as the others.
Tim
Those are beauties!
I shoot carbon, am particular about my bareshafting, my wraps are numbered so I can identify an arrow that might be a habitual offender, but that rarely happens. They have all been pretty consistent, so I've never felt a need to single out any favorites. If I were shooting wood that might not be the case but overall, I'd say that am pretty much OCD free.