I saw a post where someone mention gulleted carbide edge blades for cutting bows..... How many have experience with these ? I just had a Lenox Tri master snag a lam blew out the glass.... Im looking for new options :help:
Belt grinder.
I use 36 grit to get close to the line on the limb width then finish with the edge sander, I still have masking tape on back and belly.
(https://i.imgur.com/LcLStO3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kETYWCR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ixBNK2R.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/UB2cX5W.jpg)
Push pull it under the bit
(https://i.imgur.com/js8NaFq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LFSLF7h.jpg)
Quote from: Sologuy on October 16, 2021, 10:25:18 AM
Quote from: Flem on October 16, 2021, 09:18:32 AM
Belt grinder.
Thats too much dust for me
I hear ya. Unless you have good dust collection or you can do it outside like Max and you have a fan blowing the dust away, grinding is nasty. On the other hand if you don't have good dust collection at the bandsaw when you are cutting fiberglass, you should get fitted now for an Iron Lung.
Are you running those end mills with a regular drill press? If so how fast?
Yes a 12 speed drill press
I don't know stic. They are Coated Carbide
I would say under 900
I had some African Rosewood that had a oily place in it and it clogged up the bit a lot.
If that is the "carbide impregnated" blades from Grizzly, I didn't find them to be all that...
I've never had any luck with end mills in my drill press, unless plunge cutting :tongue:
Max, does your chuck have a tapered arbor?
Max are the bits end mill or burrs ? And how many flutes ? Will tin coated work ? I have a lot to learn about this end mill.
Thanks
Quote from: Flem on October 17, 2021, 09:01:05 AM
Max, does your chuck have a tapered arbor?
That's the $1000 question. I expect Max understands the implications of this, but for those that don't I will explain.
Many (most/all?) hobby shop sized drill presses use a tapered arbour that the chuck is mounted to and inserted up into the column, relying only on the friction of the tapered fit to stay in place. This works great for centering the chuck and carries the torque loads from drilling very well. As a bonus, the axial thrust forces involved in drilling continuously push the arbour up into the column, keeping it tight and re-seating it if it were to come loose for any reason.
If you put a side load on the chuck without an accompanying thrust load, such as when using an end mill as shown above, it is quite possible for the tapered arbour to work loose and have the chuck fall out while the press is running. This is dangerous and hard on the equipment.
Lots of people use their press in this fashion without an issue, but it can lead to a dangerous situation and it is always good to be informed of the possible consequences of your actions before getting surprised in an unpleasant way. After that the choice is up to you.
Mark
Solid carbide for cutting fiberglass
Here is where I got them years ago, I got the ball nose 1/4" and the straight
There web site has changed.
I was surprised how smooth of a cut they make.
https://bursforcarving.com/rasp-type-burs/1-4-fiberglass/
Yes I have a Morse taper chuck, I cleaned the hole out and make sure the male taper has no burs with a flat stone, screw the jaws all the way up into the chuck and put it in the freezer for a hour.
I swing the table out of the way and I have a piece of hard wood to hit with the hammer, now I'm ready to drive up into the taper with a heavy hammer.
"Steel expands when it is heated at the rate of 6 millionths of an inch per inch per degree of heat rise. That results in about 1/2 of one thousandth of an inch expansion per foot per 100 degree temperature rise."
Just the opposite when cold.
I push and pull the riser to and away from me slowly and keep raising the table up.
I have a template for the shelf, the shank on the radius rubs against the template :laugh: :bigsmyl:
Thanks for posting that info Max. I am going to give your technique a try.
Would be nice to have a mill and lathe, but thats not happening, so the drill press has to do it all in my shop :banghead:
A Morse taper on a drill chuck is about 4" long and need to be cut with precision to hold the chuck in.
I'm afraid now days machines are made so cheep, so I don't know.
Mine fell out as soon as I got it (Grizzly), but has stayed in after I froze it.
I found the picture of the bits
(https://i.imgur.com/5M16Nw5.jpg)
This?
https://www.lagunabandsaws.com/store/laguna-resaw-king-blade