Anyone use a Worksharp machine to sharpen 2 blade heads? Looks like they would be good with the finer grit belts. I bet they would do well on single bevels too.
I've got the Work Sharp - Ken Onion model, plus the optional blade grinding attachment. A considerable investment but it's the one tool that will do a professional job on everything from hedge shears to knives to broadheads. I can bring any edge to a hair-splitting and mirror-polished condition.
I bought one and tried it for my broadheads. Didn't like the results and returned it.
Bisch
Never used one. May work? At least to get you to the where the blade is at a start point to scary sharp.B
been using carbide, then dmt, then leather strop. Never had an animal complain they were not dead enough.
Hedge~
Love mine for knives. Not so much for sharpening broadheads.
Kevin,
If you have time, maybe a tutorial would be helpful to more than a few guys. I think Terry at the Footed Shaft used one also.
Quote from: Kevin Dill on August 11, 2021, 12:41:22 PM
I've got the Work Sharp - Ken Onion model, plus the optional blade grinding attachment. A considerable investment but it's the one tool that will do a professional job on everything from hedge shears to knives to broadheads. I can bring any edge to a hair-splitting and mirror-polished condition.
I concur. Use this a lot and it only takes a couple of minutes to put a shaving sharp edge on anything.
I love the ken onion version, for knives. I could never do anything worth while on a broadhead with it. Maybe I need a different attachment or something
Could never get a broadhead to fit just right to sharpen it on mine
If you are using the guides I don't think you will get a good result on broadheads. They are just a mini belt sander. If you can't get a broadhead sharp with one of these things I suspect you are trying to use one of the guides and the ferrel is getting in the way.
I think the basic Work Sharp is poorly suited for typical broadhead sharpening, BUT...equipped with the optional Blade Grinding Attachment it's simply amazing. That's the tool I use when I really need to make hay with blades. I don't use it for a single dull head...I have other ways to get them sharp enough for reusing. Today I needed to sharpen a bunch of single bevel Abowyer heads for an upcoming moose hunt. I set up the Work Sharp and went to work.
Blade as seen before sharpening:
(https://i.imgur.com/OfyTNxcl.jpg)
After first application to honing belt.
(https://i.imgur.com/vRob03Kl.jpg)
Another blade before application:
(https://i.imgur.com/uMnpyfGl.jpg)
And after first belt:
(https://i.imgur.com/kxmHV2Zl.jpg)
At this point the blade has a serious burr, but is looking pretty good. I'm not worried about a completely mirror edge. I'm after a razor-sharp cutting edge, period.
(https://i.imgur.com/cjGAzrFl.jpg)
Closeup:
(https://i.imgur.com/rXhIkJJl.jpg)
After establishing the basic honed edge and deburring it a tiny bit, I move on to the ultrafine belt (not shown) and green honing compound. When the head is beginning to catch hairs, it's ready for the stropping belt using red compound. Light pressure and consistent technique is key. An extremely light strop on the backside and the blade is finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/m0nyknOl.jpg)
Work Sharp with Blade Grinding Attachment and stropping belt:
(https://i.imgur.com/AMPE28Kl.jpg)
What I really like is how quickly and consistently I can get a polished edge on every blade with no struggle. When doing several broadheads it's much better for me than taking the time to use my mothballed K&M or a file or other hone. I carry a broadhead file with me on my hunts, and I can get a head very sharp with it too. I can just do an even better job with the Work Sharp, and less effort.
Thanks
Thanks Kevin!