Hey all, I picked up a samick red stag recurve bow just to play with and work on form, it's only a 40# bow. I'll be shooting it at 29" what spine carbon arrow would everyone get for it and also aluminum size? I know where a load of old Easton autumn orange arrows are at but I need to know around what size I need. And what would everyone run far as tip weight on both carbon and aluminum to start with.
I would need a 600 or full length 500 loaded up front
I've got 100 brass inserts and would like to use 125-150 grain points
The following should put you in the ball park:
Black Eagle Carnivore 400...31"...std insert...175 gn tip...~422 gn total...~10 gpp
The following should put you in the ball park:
Gold Tip Ultralight 500...30"...100 gn insert...125 gn tip...~436 gn total...~10.3 gpp
Quote from: Friend on August 07, 2021, 09:43:05 PM
The following should put you in the ball park:
Gold Tip Ultralight 500...30"...100 gn insert...125 gn tip...~436 gn total...~10.3 gpp
That's more what I would like to run point and insert weight wise
I would lean toward 2016 on the aluminum at your 29" draw and 30 inch arrow.A 1916 would be a valid choice as well.
You can always play with point weight from 100 up to 175 grains.Aluminums typically dont respond as well to extreme front loading like carbons.
I shoot 2 bows, 40@28.5 and 41@28.5. For carbons I shoot 700 spines cut 29 with 145 grain heads. And in a cedar arrow 50-55 cut 29 inches bop with 125 grain heads. With my 40 lb bow I can also shoot 45-50 cedar as it has a dacron string. If you are new to traditional bows you may very well find you won't draw 29 inches but if you do a 600 should be right on the money.
My 40 pound bow likes 31 inch 500 GT trads with 200 grains up front. I draw it closer to 43 though.
Do you really have a 29" draw? I find that most shooters over-estimate their true draw length. Have someone check it while you draw your bow.
Or take a 3x5 index card, punch a hole in the center and slide it halfway down an arrow. Draw your bow and the card will bump against the riser and slide out towards the tip as you draw. Careully let down and measure that position.
Best to know what you have, before you start.
I know there are some good lighter heads out there. Just a suggestion, it is easier to find a sturdy head that is around the 145-185 grain screw in models. Don't cut all your arrows at once. As you shoot, your form could change and thus a longer draw. You will find arrow tune is critical when shooting off the shelf. Not complicated, just a little time consuming until you are getting the best flight. No two releases are alike, just like Scott said this will get you close.
1916's. Works great for me.
I shoot a 40# @ 29 Black Widow. A full length GT 500 with a std insert and 125 gr tip works great. I do not see the need to front load that arrow for that now.
I use a 175 grain tips, on 600 spine arrows, 29", for my 40# bows. You are welcome to come by and borrow a few to try before you buy any if you want. Since were neighbors.
I shoot Gold Tip Traditional 400 spine with 100g brass insert and 125-150 g tips or broadheads. I shoot a Samick Sage riser with 40# Journey limbs with 29.5 in pull. I just started three years ago but am confident that when my first shot at a deer comes I will be ready with this set up.
Get some bare shafts & play around with them.
I run heavy spine with lots of point weight to get pretty heavy arrows. But I've taken forkies from our mountains weighing around 160-180 lb. So I take the overkill method. Never know what I'm going to find out there. I like knowing that my setup can take a 300-lb bear or pig just as well.
If it were me, I'd start with a heavy front-weighted 400 spine. Start full length with 125 heads and a 100 gr brass insert. Then I'd chop until I got the flight I want. I take off about 1/2" at a time with a bench disc sander. If that 400 spine is showing stiff at full length with all that weight up front, then I'd drop down to 500 and repeat.
The result is going to be a ridiculously heavy arrow for draw weight with a rainbow trajectory. I've become an Ashby fan & accept the distance limitations of traditional bows. It's not as good for 3D or field archery where 30-40 yard shots are common. But I have full confidence in those heavy arrows punching 2 holes into any living thing in its path.
I'm shooting 44@30 and found 400s to be too stiff for me. When I loaded up the front to compensate my arrows dropped like rocks past 20yds. 500s were way to weak unless I tried 100 or less points plus they were a bit squirrely and too noisy.
Enter 450 spine arrows. Both 31 or 32" and any points from 1oo to 200 fly great. Plus they fly the same with my 41@30 limbs.
Sadly 450 arrows are a challenge to find for a reasonable price. I buy Chinese off the auction sites.
And I thought traditional archery was supposed to be....simpler.
Check this man out, he gives some good pointers on shooting & his specs on the arrows he shoots. He has made several videos. The guy can shoot, even though he doesn't shoot a lot on his vids. Good luck on your journey.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lWOurGGs9fE