I'm looking to improve the small wood lot behind my house. As of now, this is the only private place I have to hunt (hoping to pick up a lease or two next year).
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I am specifically looking at the two open areas separating the woods. It totals roughly one acre out of the total 10 acres of woods, with all of that surrounded by row crop (alternating corn/wheat/soybeans). The target area was fenced years ago with 5' woven wire, though there are several gaps now due to missing gates and fallen trees.
My initial thoughts are to plant some chestnuts and sawtooth oaks (have found a local supplier for both), and try to create a small no-till food plot (or two). I'd also like to figure out some sort of cover to put across the front area since that side faces the road.
Anyone want to suggest things that are: a) reasonably priced (open to whatever, but I don't have thousands of dollars to spend on this at once), b) preferably don't require a tractor (which I would have to borrow)?
And to clarify, this is for attracting/holding whitetail deer.
First, be sure the soil chemistry is appropriate for the crops you intend to use and your woodlands. A soil test sent to the State Ag office will give you that info and in some states it is free. The breaks in the old fencing will help with deer movement and concentrate them through certain areas. Chestnuts, especially the hybrid American chestnuts would be good but sawtooth oaks are considered an invasive exotic and can become a problem on small acreages. Native persimmons, plums and grapes are good food sources and except for the plums which produce fruit in the summer are available during the hunting season. If you have mature oaks and beeches you can clear around them and fertilize to promote their hard mast. Even a well fertilized fallow field will attract whitetails and give cover during the day light hours. Thinning the wood lots, especially removing unwanted species will encourage better growth and mast production of the valuable species like white oak and beeches.
Do you have any oaks in the existing woods? If so, you might want to have a state forester advise you on removing a few trees to let your oaks get some sunlight and room to grow. Plant a temporary screen down near the road. There are several tall annual grasses available. I would plant a 15'-20' tall grass screen on the edge and then plant alternating rows of pines or white cedar for a more permanent screen. Depending on the size of the tree plantings, you would have to replant the grass screen for a few years to let the trees grow and you most likely would need to put cages on the trees or possibly a temporary fence to protect them from browsing and rubs.
In the open area at the top of the photo down to where it necks down, I would consider planting Native Warm Season Grasses. That is fairly pricey, but you are looking at a small area. For best results, you would need to terminate the existing growth and would need some equipment to prep and amend the soil. A soil test before planting anything is a great idea. The soil ph will probably need to be dealt with, but bulk lime is fairly cheap. I have about an acre of plots and I haul a couple of tons in a trailer and spread it with a shovel. Your local co-op may have equipment that you can borrow or rent at a low cost. The lower open area below the bottle neck is where I would consider a food plot. First planting I would do a white (mix Ladino and Alsike) clover with winter rye as a nurse crop. In my plots I have planted some crabapple trees and am planning on planting some persimmons. Do some research on the soft mast trees as far as pollination is concerned. All of the above is me assuming that the top of the photo is north. If I'm wrong on that, you could just reverse the NWSG and foodplot locations.
Both sides of the bottleneck would make for great stand sites allowing you to play the wind. The NWSG will make for a great bedding area with the bottleneck acting as a travel route to the foodplot. Access to the stand locations will be key so entering from the crop field edges would allow you to avoid being winded. You will also find good stand locations leaving yours woods where the deer are entering the crop fields.
Actually a really good looking spot and I like the shape of the open area. I am sure you are aware that you are looking at some labor. You won't get it all done at once and the best way is to pick out one project at a time and finish it. I had (still have) the tendency to try to do too many projects at once. Habitat management is a process and takes time. I actually enjoy the work as much as I do hunting. It's rewarding to see the results of your work. Anyway, this was just my initial thought from viewing the photo. You may have some non-native invasive species to deal with (Asian Bush Honeysuckle, Autumn Olive, Multiflora Rose...) and that is a chore in itself!
Thanks for your thoughts! I forgot to mention that the woods were select cut last year, though there are still a few large oaks. I don't know how many total trees were removed, but I would guess around 120? It's a family farm, but I don't own any of it (yet), so don't get to make the big decisions/money. :bigsmyl:
Mike, the top of the photo is actually NE.
I started applying the stuff Jeff Sturgis provides on his Whitetail Habitat Solutions site, whitetailhabitatsolutions.com.
I am only part-way through improving my place but I am already seeing bigger bucks and seeing them during the day. I think he has some very valuable concepts and he does have strategies for small parcels. You don't need 200 acres - I have 28.
Good luck
JMC
Take an inventory of the existing trees and natural browse.
For example, I fertilize honey suckle, oak trees and other "natural' browse.
Honey suckle is an invasive, but the deer browse the fertilized plants way back each year.
You can do alot with a weed whacker to reduce invasive species competition with the natural browse.
Roudup can be your friend if used selectively (backpack sprayer) and in a correct concentration.
This is all low cost (mostly sweat)
Judd-I've seen deer browse honeysuckle vine, but not Bush Honeysuckle. I wish they would because I've still got a ton of it. :bigsmyl:
Very nice...I see a host of possibilities
Mike-
Yes, we have the vine here.
When fertilized they really hammer it in the winter as the leaves stay green late in the year.
Deer were growing very well for eon's before we decided to start food plotting.
Enhancing natural browse is one of the best and most cost effective ways to help deer.
There is nothing wrong with supplemental plantings but if you "intensely" manage your properties natural plants and trees, it will pay big dividends.
Lately I have seen a few more you tube videos explaing natural browse enhancement.
I think more people are realizing you can do alot with smaller acreage.
Judd-I agree that the deer do browse the vine honeysuckle and if I had any I would utilize it. Enhancing native browse is an effective and economical way to enhance your property. I have a 3 acre field that was nothing but weeds, briars and small trees that I mowed 2-3 times a year. I ran over with a disk a couple of times one Spring and it was amazing to see how it turned out. Lots of clover and ragweed deer do like ragweed) and other native weeds that the deer and turkey hit pretty hard. A neighboring farmer cuts it twice a year now for grass hay. Seems to come back better after every cutting.
Pat is right, sawtooth oak do spread but I would have to go with them anyway. They are incredible in the fast growth and acorn production.
A virtual 10 acre wooded island surrounded by a sea of crops should be handled with particular care.
It is quite easy to blow deer out of a 1o acre area. Yet, if strategically setup and hunted one could have a struck gold.
Just some options that I have implemented with the exception of planting the saw tooth oaks:
1. No traffic No traffic No Traffic ,,,stay completely out of the core areas
2. Determine entries and exits based on wind and morning and afternoon hunts. Note morning hunts may present a bigger challenge since the deer will likely already be in the fields.
3. Hunting fringes will be more productive
4. Strategically drop every tree in two locations for bedding areas...~ ΒΌ acre
5. Add a water source or two if none present...could be quite significant
6. May consider planting cedars for entry and exit cover
7. Planting the saw tooth oaks should be quite productive
8. The terrain may be such that some serious hinge cutting may be advantageous
9. Would consider a food plot such as Antler King's Big 8....one that generates palpable and nutritious foliage for early season, the rut and late season.
Note: There are other possibilities