The way I've been building my arrows, since I have very little access to power tools at the moment is to just build my arrows and tune them around a full length arrow shaft at 32''. Is there anything wrong with doing it this way for a hunting arrow setup?
Nothing wrong with that.
Infact, it will add to your overall mass weight.
I generally tune to the head I want to shoot.
As long as you realize that commercial shafts are spined for a 28" finished arrow with a 125gr point and you make adjustments accordingly. My draw length is 26" but I cut my arrows to 30". As long as the arrows shoot well the length is a personal preference.
There is nothing wrong with it as long as you are ok with letting the arrow dictate the components used. Most guys are particular about the components though and would rather trim the shaft to tune.
I've got the stuff to cut arrows down to the length I want,but I find full length shafts much easier to tune.
Well, I use a back quiver so it would be a problem but otherwise no.
I run arrows pretty long but like 150 and 175 grain heads. I build my arrows, spine and length, based on that.
Although I recently got some 200 grain heads to try.
I'm running 200 grain heads and it works pretty good. Thanks all for the replies, I was pretty sure it didn't matter, it just seemed like it was looked down on for keeping arrows longer.
The longer an arrow is the less weight it takes to tune it. Which means a lighter spine. That translates to more wobbly arrows on impact and that kills penetration. I learned this the hard way hunting with 32" arrows. I now just cut with a cheap dremel tool and square them up.
If you use a bow quiver, chances are full length arrows will stick in the dirt filling the nocks with mud every time you lean your bow against a tree. Longer arrows accentuate movement in the bow or back quiver increasing your likelihood of being detected by game. Likewise, it takes more movement to remove a long arrow from a bow or back quiver and place it on the string. In a final stalk, with the arrow on the string, the extra length is more likely to get hung up on brush and/or necessitate more movement to avoid it.
For all these reasons, I don't make my arrows any longer than they need to be -- one inch longer than my draw length to BOP.
Sorry GUYS!!!!
I forgot to add my big laughy face emoji and my silly follow up comment about people making fun of you.... got distracted as usual. :banghead:.. so I just removed it. :campfire:
If full length arrows are easier to tune you are way off in the spine required for your bow weight, draw length, arrow length combination. Have been a half inch longer guy for over 50 years.
Kelly, all that, bow weight, draw length, head weight and arrow length is figured out before hand. It's all part of arrow making as you probably already know. I learned arrow making with raw cane and raw hardwood shoots so every aspect of the arrow has to be worked out or you'd never get them to shoot well. IMO, the arrow is the most important, critically tuned aspect in the bow/arrow combo.
I use full length arrows for 3D and build a far superior arrow for hunting penetration on deer sized quarry.
Current arrow well-tuned setups using the same bow and identical name brand shaft and spines:
3D- BE 400...32 ½"...12 gn insert...145 gn point...17.5% FOC...407 gn total wt
Hunting – BE 400...29 15/16...100 gn insert...200 gn BH...27% EFOC...533 gn total
Note: I hunt exclusively from the ground and full length arrows would be out of the question for many of the confined haunts.
On a serious note .... several reasons to cut em...
Mostly tuning, dimensional stability at impact, and maneuverability and handling. All my arrows are 29"s bop. From bunnies to bison.
And yes, Scott builds a mean arrow.... and is a great shot too. :archer2:
I'll add a little. Full length arrows are no more lethal than say 29.5 inch arrows. The length of the arrow is one of the least determining factors in penetration. I also like all my arrows to be uniform in length, and with the broadhead of my choice. A full length arrow weighing 400 grains running 185 is not as lethal as 550 grain arrow running 185. The arrow has no idea what length it is so it has no bearing on much of anything except personal preference.
Shoot what you want and have fun. :archer:
Tom0728 " The longer an arrow is the less weight it takes to tune it. Which means a lighter spine. That translates to more wobbly arrows on impact and that kills penetration. I learned this the hard way hunting with 32" arrows. I now just cut with a cheap dremel tool and square them up."
This makes a lot of sense!! I think I need to play around with arrow tuning again and see if I can fine tune my setup a little better. Do you just square the end up with some sand paper or are you more precise than that?
I have a 29" draw.
So I cut to 29" BOP.
So I draw to the BOP, Kinda like a draw check.
I don't like excess arrow sticking out....
All of my arrows regardless of material, Are Give or take 500 grains with 125 grain Tip's. :archer:
to move your point on farther away. :thumbsup:
Back quiver, plus 32" carbon shaft plus a three inch broadhead. Those puppies are going to be sticking way up there. Watchout for low power lines, branches and lightening. Full length with wood arrows, turns it all into a rather large guessing game for spine.
Lstok88 i just made my own square with wood and yep I cover my block with sandpaper and spin. Im not into the idea that foc from only weight perspective increases penetration,to me it always seems that by using a stiffer shaft due to added weight is what makes the whole deal work. Look at slow mo video on some light arrows.....they bend like crazy.
Quote from: mike g on May 04, 2021, 01:58:53 PM
I have a 29" draw.
So I cut to 29" BOP.
So I draw to the BOP, Kinda like a draw check.
I don't like excess arrow sticking out....
All of my arrows regardless of material, Are Give or take 500 grains with 125 grain Tip's. :archer:
If I ain't wrong Fred Asbell was used to have his hunting arrows touching the riser at full draw.
I personally fine tune my arrow with the point then I cut the arrow as needed
I may be the odd ball here, but I have shot arrows 29" or so for so long that it is ingrained in my brain I think. When shooting, I "see" the arrow tip in my perifial vision. I do not use the arrow tip as an aiming point but my mind apparently does subconsciously factor it in.
I didn't realize that until once long ago I was visiting RMSG in the Denver area. I saw a nice Poison Dart bow, complete with bow quiver hanging up in the target range area and what appeared to be full length skinny arrows.
I asked about it and was told that it was Tom Clum's personal bow and was offered the chance to try it out. Immediately I had a nice group of arrows in the target but as I recall the group was about 8-10" low.
Could I get used to that eventually? Probably, but for the change in shooting various bows and some of the reasons listed above I choose to keep my arrows at 29".
Quote from: MnFn on May 21, 2021, 09:07:55 AM
I may be the odd ball here, but I have shot arrows 29" or so for so long that it is ingrained in my brain I think. When shooting, I "see" the arrow tip in my perifial vision. I do not use the arrow tip as an aiming point but my mind apparently does subconsciously factor it in.
^^^ This, and 29ish inch arrows for me too.
I am a tad OCD though, and I guess that's why I like continuity in my set-ups. I choose the components (same type for all my 3 bows) and tune from there, trim shoot, trim shoot etc. My arrows have always come in at that 28-3/4 to 29-1/4", and they shoot great for me (I draw just a fuzz under 28")
I've tried tuning longer arrows, but my brain just will not co-operate, and it won't compensate for the longer shaft length. I simply cannot hit where I look with them. I end up aiming instead of simply looking at my spot and shooting. Unfortunately the aiming thing doesn't work so well for me.
My thoughts, for what they are worth, are the advantages (of which a good many are mentioned in above posts) of a properly tuned arrow that is an inch to an inch and a half longer than ones draw length, do out-weigh any ease of tuning benefits there may be.
But....if your set-up tunes perfectly, and your arrows consistently hit where you look, then by all means use the full length shafts.
That's the beauty of traditional archery, we are all different and we all like different things, so if it works well for you, then it's the right thing for you.
Best
Lex