Heard about these and watched a PUSH U-tube. So thought I'd give it a go. So far looking good. Three 2" sheaths is supposed to be 10 grains, four should be 13+ grains. Wool puff is 45-47 grains. Should pick up a smidge of speed, but they should shed water better. First pic is start and others are after 50 arrows. We'll see.
I use them and they work great.
Quite quiet and I am moving back to my 4 arrow EFA quiver. With hardwood arrows should be whisper soft.
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I just started using them on the recurve I hunted bear with this spring. I used 3, 2inch pieces they are quite and cheap and I always have paracord around. I used to use rubber cat whiskers because they shed rain but the paracord also works well in that department. They do quite the bow but I think the next set will be at least 4, 2inch pieces.
Four is a good size. And if I do the math 3 = 10 grains, 4 = 13.3 grains.
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How do you think they'll do around cockleburrs, stick tights and other hitchhikers?
Intrigued. Do you just cut a length of cord and put them in the string? Or do you take off the outer layer first?
Interesting, I have used various materials for string silencers, but not paracord. Being an old paratrooper, and having packed a lot of parachutes, you would think that it would have occurred to me to try this.
When you say 3 pieces at 2", are you using that on both ends of the string? Also, I'm assuming that you remove the sheath cover.
Sounds like an idea that I'll have to try. Thanks for the info. :archer2:
CR, you cut to length 1"-2"-3" number of strands is your choice then pull the insides out. Once you attach them you can pull them apart or just keep shooting them and they should come apart.
You can tie them on or insert them between the strings which is how I do mine. Hope this helps.
"Do you just cut a length of cord and put them in the string? Or do you take off the outer layer first?"
You are actually just using the outer layer/sheath for the silencer. You pull out the "guts" of the paracord and discard.
Actually, you pull out the inside and throw it away. 3-4 pieces of sheath cut to 2" and put between the string. Starts looking good after about 50 shots then gets better. Use different color cords to get the effect you want. Not sure about picking up travelers have not hunted it yet. Video says it sheds water better than wool.
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I have various hanks of nylon cordage, which consists of interior strands sheathed in a wrap, which I use for miscellaneous backpacking purposes. Do you think this would work the same, or is there something special about paracord?
Paracord comes in many colors all with nylon threads inside I guess it would work. I used a camo color and standard OD. I also have black and red.
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Gregg Coffee told me about it. It works. This is on a triple carbon elk heart. It is only two lengths of para cord. I think I'd try three strands next time. If two works, three must be better right?
[attachment=1,msg2923641]
Impressed with how well four 2" strands work.
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Think I notice a bit more pop with these silencers. Noticed a slight "buzz" with 2315 arrows in 4 arrow EFA. Put heavy wood arrows in quiver and "buzz" went away. 2315 snapping to target at 15 yards. Pretty quiet, 60 more shots, but still not all fluffy.
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Shot a bit more high wrist with my locator grip and focused on follow through, had a couple four arrow groups that were fletching all touching at 15 yards. That's not bad for me.
Thank you for the clarification and tip.
Pulled it from another site and a U-tube video. Thought I'd pass it along. So far very pleased with the results.
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Never thought of this but tried it last night
Took about a dozen shots to fray over 50%. I like it...Thanks.
Just passing along what I heard and tried. It seems to be working out well.
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Hey Wudstix. Did you tie in the pieces of paracord or just insert them between the string strands? Thanks for the tip. I'm going to give them a try.
Simply inserted paracord sheaths with white inner threads removed in string and then squeezed them together a bit.
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Here's a super easy way to set these up:
1) Wrap the paracord around 4 fingers on one of your hands to get 6 pieces. Cut and pull out the inner strands. Save 2 of the strands.
2) Cut the sheath length in half.
3) Cut each of those into 3 pieces
4) Use one of the inner strands to tie the 3 sheath pieces to the string with double overhand knots on top and bottom. Rotate the sheath pieces so that they are even around the string.
5) Shoot the bow to fray the sheath into a silencer
Would it look/work better if you used three different length pieces rather then all the same length?
Don't see why not just be non-symetrical.
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Finally felt like shooting after work this evening. Put another 61 arrows down range at 10-12-15 yards with about 4" six arrow groups with 2315 plus a heavy woodie. Paracord adjusted to 12" from nock groove, quieter. Think I found the sweet spot. They're fluffing out nicely. Still a small "click" in the shot may try shorter/stiffer shafts tomorrow night. Or try some 2219, or heavy hardwood, Hmmm!!!
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Top and bottom after 201 shots. Looking pretty good.
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Five arrow group at 13 yards. Two sticking out the back.
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So I have used 2 pieces of chord to silence my bow and it works great. The only issue is that when you slide them into the string they sometimes move. I like sliding them in the string, but does anyone have some pictures or suggestions for knots to tie to prevent them from moving? I have tried the constrictor knot, but hoping there might be a better knot to try? Any pics would be greatly appreciated!
Do you use just the sheaths between the string? I have four sheaths and was able to adjust a bit with unstrung bow before they got real fluffy. But they haven't slid at all.
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yes, I just slide them between. and seems like every time they slide, I keep pulling them back and they keep sliding.
I've seen three recommended, I use four and squeezed them together with no slippage after they frizzed and fluffed out.
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Quote from: Wudstix on July 02, 2020, 01:38:32 PM
Do you use just the sheaths between the string? I have four sheaths and was able to adjust a bit with unstrung bow before they got real fluffy. But they haven't slid at all.
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Quote from: Deertaker on July 02, 2020, 11:16:57 AM
So I have used 2 pieces of chord to silence my bow and it works great. The only issue is that when you slide them into the string they sometimes move. I like sliding them in the string, but does anyone have some pictures or suggestions for knots to tie to prevent them from moving? I have tried the constrictor knot, but hoping there might be a better knot to try? Any pics would be greatly appreciated!
I'm with wudstix..... there are no knots involved.... just insert between the string bundles...
deertalker.... when you say slide , do you mean up and down the string?...... then try a tied nock point above and below to keep them from migrating... If they are slipping out from between the string bundles ..... cut the para cord about 6"+, insert between the bundles, and tie an overhand knot, cinched tight, trim to length.... lather, rinse, repeat.
not very good photos, but it shows an extra loop around the string with the cord so it doesn't pull out.[attachment=1][attachment=2][attachment=3]
I have been a Qiviut fan and alpaca wool for years due to light weight and water shedding, paracord is noticeable faster than wool puffs and cost savings is substantial. The water shed test will come and that could be it.
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Moved the PC string silencers two inches to 1/4 of string length from nocks and Eureka, noise gone and arrow flight is amazing with very tight four arrow groups.
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Quote from: Wudstix on July 09, 2020, 09:10:45 PM
Moved the PC string silencers two inches to 1/4 of string length from nocks and Eureka, noise gone and arrow flight is amazing with very tight four arrow groups.
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What do you mean by "two inches to 1/4 of string length ".
Do you mean you divided the string length in quarters and positioned the silencers at 1/4 of the length from each end
Yes, string 56" NTN so moved from 12" to 14" and that is the spot.
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okay thanks.
That works for my 63-67# hybrid longbows, best. Also, for Big River recurve 66#.
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Yes I understand it'll be different for different bows and different Indians, still it's useful info for me anyway.
I usually start at 12" but usually end up at 14-15"ish for my 60" bows.
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I think I'm going to fiddle around with the distance today and see what I find.
There is a formula for placement I see used a lot. 3/4 and 2/3 of the distance from limb contact to nock point. Can't remember which is top or bottom number. I go by memory any more.
I have a great memory, but it is short.
Starting from top for a 56" string that would be 18.667" and 14", or vice versa. I like 1/4ish of string length from string groove on both ends.
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Trying something new to me. Got an answer on the other site that 1/4 from top and 1/3 from bottom was professed to be best. Shooting in the dark is a good test and it seems to work, but without a decibel meter we may never know. Arrow flight with @745 grain Leopard wood was PDG. Shooting in the dark between my privacy fence and house provides a good test tunnel, small thump which I hear about same time arrow hits target at 12-15 yards.
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Four arrow group this evening. Last arrow red nock tucked high right. Light 2315 arrows flying well. Think it's tuned.
That's a good idea, going to take to wool off my string and give this a try.
Possum,
I've found it works as good as anything I've tried. Price is right.
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Will the madness never end? Picked up another tip on the other site. Suggested that putting silencers on L/6 and L/10. "L" being the measurement from string touch points at the groove for longbows and on the limb curve for recurves. The 1/3 and 3/4 helped quiet the bow and L/6 and L/10 brought back a bit of speed with equal or better quiet.
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