I have it all pulled out ! I'm trying carbon out . My fletched arrows fly great when I pull off a nice release . When I bare shaft at ten yards , I hit a bit low and 6 or so inches to the right .BUT , the nock end is around 10 inches higher than POI , and approx 8 inches left of POI . How? My gear is a Toelke whip , tillered for 3 under ( which I do shoot ) 64 inch , 55 @ 30 " ( I draw 28") carbon express heritage at 29 3/4 ", three 4 inch feathers (shield), 50 gr brass inserts , and 145 grain tips . I'm nocked at 1/2 inch high at the top nock for good arrow flight , and have moved it from zero to 3/4 " bare shafting and it doesn't change much , also I'm right handed , thanks , Troy
Sorry ; those are 150's
I would try more tip weight.
you need a real good release in order to bare shaft, make sure your release is good and clean and disregard any shots that are not good. it does sound as though you may be weak shafted --more tip weight, one thing at a time.
As an experiment, try shooting the same set up with split fingers and see what you find.
Curious as to why you guys are advising more tip weight when his symptoms are nock left, impact right, which indicates a weak shaft for a RH shooter?
Persistent nock high is often the result of too much string pressure on the ring finger when shooting 3 under. Try putting most of the string pressure on your index finger and just laying the ring finger on the string without much pressure at all and see if that brings the nock high down any.
Quote from: McDave on May 16, 2020, 10:44:35 AM
Curious as to why you guys are advising more tip weight when his symptoms are nock left, impact right, which indicates a weak shaft for a RH shooter?
ditto
What spine are your arrows?
He stated Heritage 150's. The Carbon Express arrow selection chart recommends that at his set up he should use the 250's which are stiffer (which should help his results).
Quote from: creekwood on May 16, 2020, 10:42:29 AM
As an experiment, try shooting the same set up with split fingers and see what you find.
Again, and please report back what you find. Maybe nothing, but maybe a clue...
I will let you all know . I can spare up to an inch off the shaft too
The only reason I say more tip weight, is I have a toelke whip and it's 54 pounds at my draw. He is under that at his draw. 150 are pretty stiff when cut down. Doesn't hurt to try. As said above if your release Isn't perfect it can be off. If you cut some off you can't put it back.
I shot the same arrow from my 55#@28 Wes Wallace LB but my arrows were cut at 29". I had no issues. Sure 250's flew but I had to up the tip to 175 grains besides the 50 grain insert. Yes, heavy arrows can and will make up for form mistakes but wouldn't it be better to find those mistakes and correct them? Otherwise you end up with an arrow that resembles a Lincoln log in flight.
Hey folks ,Troy here . I went back to all of Dan's recommended measurements , it got better . I used 195 grains up front I'll try to send the pic at ten yds [attachment=1]
I've found that tuning is not an exact science, what with false weak indications, etc. Never hurts to try things that might seem counterintuitive at first.
McDave, you are so right. To many variables.
Will the hair grow back now? Glad to see your making progress as it sure can be frustrating. I hated carbons about ten years ago!
I sure hope so! I thought trad was relaxing !
Better. But perhaps that still looks a bit too far nock left on the bare shafts.
In my experience, perfect form and release can get an out-of-tune, fletched arrow to work. But a well-tuned shaft allows for better shooting when my form/release is less than perfect (which is most of the time).
And 10 yards is only a starting point. With those results you need to move back to 20 and see what's going on.