I dont know if im in the write wroom or knot,
But kick me out if im not,
Ive got a 40#cabalas frontier Longbow I just bought Ive got a 28.5/29inch draw
the store guy set me up with carbon shaft arrows, Stalker extreme 400 55/70 8.4GPI
(I have no idea what any of that means)
and i went home happy and doing ok shooting them, Hey Im learning, Im new,
so I bought a fletching jig and refletched them--why you might ask,,,because I could,,,
NOW
I want to buy wooden shafts and build my own for this bow,
how do I figurmajigit out what size diameter shafts to buy, what wood, ?
and who on here sells them
then how do i figure out what weight arrow heads to glue onto them ? looking to do 2 blade and 3 blade, and target points
feather length ?
thanks all
for putting up with my newbie questions
John
www.arrowskp.com should get you started John. Kelly knows his stuff. Wealth of info out there but you have to start with some basics. Have fun.
The spine marked on wood shafts is for a 28" finished arrow with a 125gr point. For each inch over 28" you subtract 5# of spine weight. For each 25 grains of point weight over 125gr subtract 5# of spine weight. So if you buy shafts that are spined 50# but cut them to 30"(for your 29" draw)their effective spine will be 40#. A 125gr heads won't change that spine for the finished arrow. I shoot either Grizzly 125gr(2 blade) or Wensel Woodsman 125gr(3 blade) with good results.
And your Cabela's carbons are spined way to stiff for that bow.
i agree with BAK
you are probably drawing about 43# at 29"- you should be using a #50 spine wooden shaft with 125Gr points.
those 400's are WAAAAY too stiff- depends a wee bit on, whether the guy who set you up- left them full length or trimmed them.
if they were left at 32" , and shooting out of your 29" draw they would significantly reduce the dynamic spine enough that they might work ok.
in otherwords, if you had a 43# draw at 29" and wanted to shoot a 32" arrow you would need about a #60 spine shaft to get proper flight, if your bow is cut closer to center, and some big ol, fletching, and a heavy point, those #70 spine carbons could be made to work, in a pinch- not ideal- but could work!
Simple way to begin with wood. If your bow is 40 lbs I'd either by an arrow sample pack and test spines 40-45 45-50 to try with 125 grain head. To keep it ultra simple I buy 1 spine above weight of your bow so 45-50 stick to a 125 grain head to start and adjust length if arrow by 1/4 inch till they fly right. Easier to start by messing with one variable at a time. Also watch clay hayes arrow tuning 101 on YouTube.
Ps cabelas should have probably put you on a 600 spine.
Nothing feels as good as shooting a wood arrow. You will be addicted.
He never cut my shafts, there 32inches from front to end of nock no blade/tip
ive been using my 100gain tips there a larger diameter of the shaft
but i was too cheap to buy any until I figured out what weight to get,
Ive been shooting at my shed--barnboard-resawn pine wood, 20 feet (please dont laugh) and im hitting within 4 inches of where
my eyes point unless I burp,fart, or hold too long, then i start shaking and let it fly as the point comes along,
the shaft isn't corkscrewing,
I want to shoot a solid traditional 3 blade VPA 3
and target points,,Bodkins are cool looking, LOL
and yes I do have a Target bag,,
Start here:
https://www.3riversarchery.com/pdf/ArrowCharts.pdf
Use the 3rd (bottom) chart for wood shafts.
Buckle you seat belt...it's a wild ride and extremely addictive! :archer2: