I finally tore up my last two WW heads this last season. Looking to get some more. I always got the 100 gr glue-on and used a 42 gr glue-in adapter. After adding the glue and sharpening they always came out to 150 gr (+/- 2-3 gr).
I see that there are 150 gr Elites available (they may have been around for a while, I only just found them). Even after buying the heads and the inserts the Elites are more expensive. I am not debating their quality, they are great heads! I have had much success with them. The Elites look to be a solid piece at the base and have the additional pieces in the middle, whereas my homemade have the glued-in insert (aluminum).
Those that have shot the originals and have moved to the Elites, how do they shoot? I am just looking for some input to inform my decision before dropping extra dollars.
Thanks,
OkKeith
They shoot fine and come with level bevels.
Thanks Terry!
I hate to be a cheapskate but $20 for a broadhead is tough for me to lay the cash down on. I know they are worth it, no doubt at all.
Thanks again,
OkKeith
They do not have the same dimensions....least that's what I remember...so check that out.
That's why I never switched....I like the length width ratio better on the origionals.
I'm sure they are as good as the originals that's why I'll stick with the originals they are a great head
I have shot the elite and they are super durable. I have a 175 on an arrow that I use to stump shoot with. It has been shot for 3 years and is still going strong. No real edge damage the point did start to roll but that is no fault of the head.
I don't think you will be disappointed with them.
I have no experience with the Elites, however I did have what I consider small failures on the originals, rolled tips, I know...should have tonto'd them, and a collapse. This year switched to a VPA 175 3 blade....which I understand...VPA makes the Elite, correct me if I am wrong.
Shot a spike bull this year with my 50 @ 32 recurve, 30 yards, through the scapula and got both lungs, 652 grain arrow. The broadhead performed flawlessly and just needed a touchup after. Will be using these for awhile. Scott.
Yes, pyramiding the point was recommended by the designers, as the manufactured didn't offer them that way.
By the way I've been cleaning up.... And running across A lot of stuff..... If I find the 190 Grizzly I bent I'll post a picture of it.
Well... I think I will splurge and get three of them. I was digging around in my "tub o' archery stuff" and found one of my original homemades. I will do a side by side comparison shooting session. My thought is that I will see no difference.
I do like the idea of the Elites being all one piece. Every one of the ones I glued up failed at the aluminum insert adapter (it had NOTHING to do with the rocks, trees and shoulder blades I shot them into!).
Thanks for all the good input.
OkKeith
What does 'failed at the adapter' mean...
I think I know...and know the reason...maybe I need to make a post about the reason but it has nothing to do with the head...can happen with any glue on/adapter head.
Please expound... :campfire:
I just ordered a pack of 175 VPA from a Trad Gang sponsor. They opened a pack of the Woodsman 175 Elite and the VPA 175. They told me they were the exact same broadhead just different package and the Woodsman cost about $12.00 more a pack. I have always been a huge fan of the Woodsman. But I wanted to try a solid broadhead instead of having to glue in adaptors.
I always have trouble getting the glue in adaptor and broadhead to spin true.
Maybe someone will make a good tutorial on it :help:
Terry-
Any of the ones that broke or came apart did so because the aluminum screw in adapter I glued in either broke or the glue failed. All of the busted ones were inadvertently shot into something hard (rock, stump, etc.).
OkKeith
I have always wondered how strong the aluminum glue in adaptor would be. I have killed several deer using the Woodsman with the glued in adaptor but I have always had a small amount of worry about the strength, especially on a accidental shoulder shot.
Matt-
With the exception of one head, all the ones I broke hit a "non-target object" (rock, really hard tree stump, etc.). Also, its not that these were new broadheads. I have been shooting and sharpening them for nearly 20 years! I more than got my monies worth. The one that did break on a shot into a deer was the same age. I had a quartering away shot and hit a little back. The arrow went between two ribs (breaking both) and lodged in the ball socket at the bottom of the shoulder blade. A hard hit. The broadhead didn't break just the insert. I figure that happed from the torque the shaft received when the deer lunged forward. I haven't ever had a broadhead failure, just the inserts I glued in.
A steel insert is of course stronger just because of the nature of the metal (and one piece broadhead correspondingly stronger) but my bows all seem to like either 125 or 150 grain heads. I just didn't find any WW that were screw in AND 150 gr then. I wouldn't have any worries about going in to the field with the same old heads I have been using. As is my normal way (Momma said I could break a steel ball bearing), I have just tore them all up and need some more.
OkKeith
Quote from: matt steed on September 20, 2019, 10:31:45 PM
I have always wondered how strong the aluminum glue in adaptor would be. I have killed several deer using the Woodsman with the glued in adaptor but I have always had a small amount of worry about the strength, especially on a accidental shoulder shot.
I have been using aluminum adapters since the eighties with no problems.... Right wing feathers make a difference I don't have time to get into that now.
If aluminum adapters were such failures they wouldn't still be selling them nor would I be using them.
I have bent grizzly broadheads..... So they are not exempt from failure.
I have never broken an adapter of steel or aluminum except when I hit something like a block in which the insert bent.
Didn't say that aluminum adapters were failures... I only said the ones I had failed after an abusive shot.
In the twenty some odd years I had them they were shot into a lot of things. Animals, logs, trees, etc. They only failed after I eventually managed to shoot them into something that broke or bent them.
I don't think there is any worry about using an insert of any sort of material but the fact remains... if you shoot it into a hard object something is gonna give. I guess from a design standpoint if the adapter goes it's actually the least expensive compenent in the system.
Thanks for all the input and information!
OkKeith
I hear your Keith, I hit something hard enough to bend the the grizzly but not break the aluminum adapter.
It all has to do with application and assembly.
Sure does Terry!
Unfortunately I'm the kind of guy who could tear up just about anything. I try to take good care of my stuff... I just have a knack for destructuon.
OkKeith