I was reading another post and the topic swung over to sharpening two blade heads. Since there are always new guys on board and hunting seasons are fast approaching I thought I'd start one on the subject. Lots of stuff in the how to section, but what the hell.
Here's couple of videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SM3pLrDfDKU
https://youtu.be/2zbgR4ybg1s
Feel free to add your tips and tricks. We all seem to approach the task from a different direction we all know there is more than one way to undress the feline.
I learnt by keeping the file static and moving the broadhead mounted on a piece of broken shafting.
The much vaunted KME is appreciated for a reason. It takes a bit of time to lay down the angle but plain works.
Thanks for taking the time to repost.
Good stuff Charlie
One word, Rada.
Quote from: T Sunstone on August 19, 2019, 10:53:10 PM
One word, Rada.
RADA...a good place to start....tweak it from there..
Thanks Charlie
I can't do it by hand!!! I just can't hold consistent angles from one side to the other. The closest thing to "by hand" that works for me is a KME, but it is still painstakingly slow.
A while back, I bought an electric sharpener for my kitchen knives. It worked so well, I thought "I wonder if this will work for broadheads?". It is now my go-to sharpening method! The sharpener is a Chef's Choice Edge Select. It will only work on 2-blade heads that the blade can be removed from the ferrule. For me, that's ok, because I only shoot 2-blades that have removable blades.
This sharpener has been a game changer for me, and I actually enjoy sharpening broadheads for the first time in my life!!!!! It is an excellent choice for anyone who is "sharpening challenged" like me!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190820/e9ab120306e356cdae25d99c0c1e2fa9.jpg)
Bisch
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I've been sharpening broadheads with just a file for many years. That's how I started out and to me it is the easiest simplest way.
I like being able to resharpen a head in the woods. It's easy once you learn how to hold it and file a consistent angle.
I sharpen mine on a flat bench stone the same way I sharpen my knives. I think the biggest mistake is using too much pressure. The weight of the blade is all that's needed and it is hard to mess up that way.
When i file broad heads at home, especially new ones, I use a broad head/arrow holder. Nothing more than a cut off from an ash canoe seat. They make them with extra length and they always need to be cut to length. Anyways, I grind a slot to harness the arrow and taper the end so the blade edges remain supported but clear of the wood for the file. i think 3rivers sold a plastic hand held arrow support. They help to get a consistent firm file stroke, which can be difficult with narrow heads. Way back when for three years in a row, I gouged my index finger on my shooting hand, right where the string bit me, sharpening Hill heads prior to the season opener. Two times it was the corner of the head digging a hole in me, another time a nasty cut when it turned in my hand. I switch hands when filing, the left hand index finger has been cut as well, but i really remember the right index finger cuts back when I only shot right handed. One year,1976, I shot a deer with the middle and ring finger under, with the stitched index finger still heavily bandaged sticking out straight, it was a very close shot.
A Rada Wheelie and a glass rod has me ready for action in less than 5"s per broadhead...the same results with convex heads...
Quote from: pavan on August 20, 2019, 03:06:07 PM
When i file broad heads at home, especially new ones, I use a broad head/arrow holder. Nothing more than a cut off from an ash canoe seat. They make them with extra length and they always need to be cut to length. Anyways, I grind a slot to harness the arrow and taper the end so the blade edges remain supported but clear of the wood for the file. i think 3rivers sold a plastic hand held arrow support. They help to get a consistent firm file stroke, which can be difficult with narrow heads. Way back when for three years in a row, I gouged my index finger on my shooting hand, right where the string bit me, sharpening Hill heads prior to the season opener. Two times it was the corner of the head digging a hole in me, another time a nasty cut when it turned in my hand. I switch hands when filing, the left hand index finger has been cut as well, but i really remember the right index finger cuts back when I only shot right handed. One year,1976, I shot a deer with the middle and ring finger under, with the stitched index finger still heavily bandaged sticking out straight, it was a very close shot.
That is a true huntsman![emoji106]
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I just grab a file and touch them up before I go out. Been doing it that way for many years. Killed a few deer with them.
Back in the 70s it seemed that no one that I hunted with could get their heads sharp, so i ended up sharpening everybody's broad heads. Half of my problem was hand fatigue from gripping arrows for dozens in a row, that is why I came up with the arrow holder. in the 60s lots of guys around here used the free hi-precisions, locally manufactured. They would take a few idle swipes at those gum soft laminates with either an old rusty file or one of those little pocket stones and go shoot deer. Then one smart ass told them that all they were sharpening was the center weld and not the real metal. I enjoyed that one, who knows maybe the welding was harder than the metal. They invented the first three blade single bevels trying to get around that. Then it seemed almost over night that hi-precision was out of business and everyone was using Bears and Deadheads and sharpening them with those little plastic carbide Bear Archery broadhead scratchers. A file still was the key to get heads to a point that the Bear broadhead scratchers could do a job, but the blood trails were noticeably better. My canoe seat wood broad head holder, that i hacked out 30 years ago.
(https://i.imgur.com/0mzJGLx.jpg)
This might make your life easier -
I am able to sharpen broad heads well, with a lot of different methods. I have pretty much every sharpening device on the market including the KME and I can use them. But by far the easiest thing I have ever used also happens to be the fastest and gives the best edge is my $38 belt sander from Harbor Freight. I'm not taking credit for the idea, I saw it on Jason Samkoviak's trad podcast.
The series of belts and strop belt for it was probably another $25. I really only use the 800, 1000 and the leather strop belt. I use Flitz polish on the strop belt. I sharpened this whole box of newly mounted broad heads in about an hour while drinking coffee, chatting with my wife and petting the dog in between arrows.
The only way I'll use something else is if the power is off! Or I'm on a trip. Then I have files, stones...etc. It does a perfect job on single bevels. And Treesharks types also.
[attachment=1,msg2881460][attachment=2,msg2881460][attachment=3,msg2881460][attachment=4,msg2881460]
Well, this hasn't gone exactly like I imagined, but I'm pretty happy with it. Like I said new guys should have lots of options to choose from for getting their broadheads killing sharp.
Like Pavan and some others I started when it was just called bowhunting. The word traditional was still in the future. Jones style caps were the rage. If you tried to wear a felt hat you'd be accused of some sicko hero worship. Plaid shirts in wool or flannel were the camo of the day unless you happened to score some WW11 Marine camo at the Army Surplus store.
Arrows were usually wood but might also be aluminum (very soft alloy shafts that bent if you looked at them crossways) or fiberglass which were rugged but too expensive for a lot of us. They were most likely tipped with Bear Razorheads lovingly stroked to a wicked meat cutting with a file.
I ruined several broadheads learning the bowman's art of file sharpening one. Stones were for knives and I was a little to heavy handed to learn that delicate technique. I was still years away from learning the value of a brand new sharp file and the different grades of cutting power.
There just weren't any real options in those days and I learned to put an aggressive serrated edge on my precious Razorheads. Gradually I'd refine my touch and could get an edge that would cut hair with just the file. A valuable skill that I still employ from time to time.
These days I have more time on my hands and my preferred sharpening tool is KME set. Awesome edges on straight and convex shaped blades. I'm going to run a Simmons Tree shark through a deer this year and will be employing another little tool that really turns the trick on concave edge broadheads. A few strokes on the RADA tool and a finish on a ceramic stick and I've got a big nasty razorsharp Shark.
My buddy Terry Green likes the accusharp tool and has done quite well with that on his Zwickey Deltas. I guess what I'm saying is that it really doesn't matter how you chose to make the edges of your broadheads wicked sharp. Just find a system that works for you and never take a dull broadhead to the hunt.
Wisdom.
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Quote from: Charlie Lamb on August 21, 2019, 09:31:15 PMI guess what I'm saying is that it really doesn't matter how you chose to make the edges of your broadheads wicked sharp. Just find a system that works for you and never take a dull broadhead to the hunt.
I think this one sentence about says it all!!!!
Bisch
I am a file guy too, but I also admire the ease of using an accusharp tool for 2-blade heads.
My preferred system is a 10-inch mill bastard file to get things started. I then go to a 6-inch chainsaw raker file. The raker file is a very fine cutting flat file, and the edges of the file have no teeth -- I use the edges like a butcher's steel to finish my broad heads. Shaving sharp in no time.
A word to the wise: Put a handle on that little 6-inch raker file if you use one. Don't ask me how I know to do that.
I enjoy the accomplishment I feel when I get one super sharp using a file and diamond stick. I use a variety of heads and can get them all shaving sharp with a file except my 4-blade Zwickey Delta's. That danged little bleeder blade wreaks havoc on my angle!!!! I use a Rada and crock stick on those.
Great video Charlie - there's something very gratifying to me about the strokes of a file.
Charlie,
I did not read this from the start. I thought it was the usual where someone was struggling to sharpening heads. So I shared an easy solution. Sorry if I went in a wrong direction there!
Tedd
No problem at all Tedd. Regardless of my original intent I really like how this thread has evolved. I've got a grinder like yours but didn't know leather belts were available. I know those edges are wicked razor sharp. :thumbsup:
Same here! I wasn't trying to steer your thread in a bad direction, but as a sharpening challenged individual, was just trying to throw another alternative out there for others like me!!!!
Bisch
At home...when I have time...it's a belt sharpener. The Work Sharp unit has been excellent for me to get a completely polished and stropped razor edge on a broadhead.
Out on a hunt I rely on a modified file. I used a flap disc on a 4.5" grinder to round and smooth the narrow edges of a file. I can file a dull head to very good sharpness and then turn the file 90 degrees (on edge) to use it as a steel. With ever-decreasing pressure I can get a head wickedly sharp with just one tool in camp.
(https://i.imgur.com/JIu9YaXl.jpg)
Like I said Jerry, options are good. No worries!
Kevin I like that file idea.
I keep a Rada in my pack, and I put rouge on the buckle end of my belt, I get both knives and heads started with the Rada until they cut hair, then strop on the belt until they shave.
Chris Spikes' tutorial on sharpening Simmons broadheads....
Here are a few links to read about different sharpening styles...
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108930.0
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108927.0
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108924.0
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108908.0
https://www.tradgang.com/tgsmf/index.php?topic=108942.0
I use files, three sided diamond stones, accusharps mostly.....
I like to use a belt sander on Wensel Woodsmens to level the bevels as some come arched ....and on Zwickys to smooth out the tri-lam for a bump free stroke with any tool I choose or have on hand.
I have a Zwicky 4 blade video in the archives as well.
File, stone, and honesteel...I used em all and they all work.
Back in the day, when some of the heads didn't have good steel like most do today, we use to file serrations on the back 3rd of the blade. Regardless of what some think of serrated heads...THEY CUT.
I call this one the "LaClair Lacerator". The next time you see Bob of Ace Archery at a show, ask him to see one, he keeps one in his tackle box I gave him that killed a deer.
This may irritate some. Years back when the first mechanicals were all the rage among compound shooters, two newly guys both lost deer that were hit with them on carbon arrows. They were told that normal heads would not work because of the speed of compound arrows. They told me about the lost deer, they felt bad about it. They saw my arrows, then they went and got 6 140 grain Hills each. Back then Craig had the pamphlet on how to sharpen them. Basically, just get the edge sort of sharp, and then reverse the head and file and at about a 45 degree angle forcefully drag a serration into the edge with one stroke. That's pretty much it. Later in the season they both shot deer, one deer went down in sight and the other ran into the remaining unpicked corn leaving an easy to follow blood trail, before it went down in about 120 yards. They thought that they discovered a super secret and this being the first year that they bowhunted. The next summer they figured that if the Hill broad heads were that good, the bows must be good as well. They came over and showed me their stuff, I thought that I was going to have a couple of new longbow friends. Not to be, they got good at it very quickly, saw brighter horizons and moved to better hunting country. We read lots of stuff how to get heads sharp, shaving, hair popping, all kinds of edge configurations, I like serrated edges myself and go quite a bit past the simple directions in the Craig Ekin pamphlet, but those two newbies found that those simple directions were all they needed.
YMMV
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