Hi guys. So I have the likely possibility of drawing a SC Alligator tag this year. I have done some carp bow fishing in the past but did not invest a lot of time in my setup of arrow flight. This time considering my target I'm trying to do better. I'm looking for advice and I'm not a tuning wizard so any tips you might have about process or gear are appreciated. Thanks in advance guys!
I'm sure I might have more questions later but initially I'm focused on getting the best shaft to build on. What seems challenging to me is the huge chunk of weight on the front of the arrow. I know there are guys here that are really into EFOC and I thought you could help me in the right direction so I don't have to collect shafting that's to weak.
I'm not using the standard fiberglass fish arrow because it's 1200-1300 grains with the raw shaft. I'm not hung up on an ending weight but that's a lot. I thought 900grains for now would be my target.
Some facts. I'm shooting a 3 piece R/D Zipper bow. Current limbs are 51# @28 I'm right handed, shoot off the shelf- Velcro with a match stick under it. I draw 28"
Gator tip is 438 gr total weight
Shooting gator with line attached to tip of arrow like bow fishing setup with float.
I have some 300 spine Trad only arrows on the way but while I waited I work up an arrow I had. Easton MFX 340 spine cut to 29" footed with 2.5"aluminum arrow to cover 100 gr brass insert. Shafting is 11.2 gpi total arrow weight 470 gr (includes brass insert & footing) arrow with gator tip = 908 grains
I shot the arrow with a matching weight field point made of 3 components hot melted together. With feathers on the shaft it obviously seemed to fly nock right at 5&10 yards while my regular hunting arrows flew nicely straight. I know a poor release can give false shots.
Do you think the shafting is weak for the head?
Is 300 spine still going to be to weak?
Right hand shooter arrow flying nock right is the arrow is too stiff.
Years ago Dan Bertalan did a video for Black Widow co. shooting alligators. Don't remember what his set up was, maybe you find the video.
How are you going to hunt the gator? If you are using a catch line and baited hook, then you can just use your normal setup to dispatch the gator once he is caught.
If all bow, then I would recommend shooting him with a bowfishing setup first. The line on the bowfishing arrow should be attached to a float. You probably won't need the float, but you don't want the line attached to your reel, just in case!!!! After you get a couple bowfishing arrows in him, then you can maneuver him into position for a kill shot. Again, you can use your normal arrow/Broadhead combination for that. This is the method I used to take my 11'1", 390# gator here in Tx. The bow I used was a 52# Bob Lee recurve.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/3452717f07777f7bf9692e138204a9b5.jpg)
Gators make some of the coolest looking euro mounts there are!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190624/e8b8013d569cec82ddb48be7891725ef.jpg)
Bisch
Beautiful Alligator Bish! Yes this will be a spot & stalk night gator hunt with line attached to arrow with float on end. Good question, ty.
One advantage I see in the solid glass fish arrow is the toughness of it in case the gator goes into some kind of brush. But that may not be a "thing" at all.
Just returned from a visit to your beautiful state and while there read and was intrigued by the alligator hunting rules and regulations. Would love to do it sometime. Good luck, hope you draw!
The fiberglass arrow is tougher I would imagine but my understanding is that all the big game arrows glass and otherwise are built to detach from the head after impact leaving the head imbedded under the skin with line attached. There is such a struggle, rolling, biting, thrashing beside the boat that it would seem odd luck that any arrow survives till the end. I'm sure there is more than one way to do it but this is my plan so far :bigsmyl:
Detaches. That makes complete sense. Kinda like the old whalers harpoons.
I've only been on two trips and shot them with the regular white carp arrows and the big game arrows. If I went again I was planning on just running a regular weighted carbon, with the idea it would break off.
Well I did more reading from the pages of the trad gang past and sacrificed two arrows in the name of experimentation... mistakes were made ha but I think I have it now. I know this will not interest everyone but I had fun learning as I built this unusual to me arrow.
After I realized I was working to making a nock right flying arrow stiffer and fly more to the right... I started over with a new arrow shaft.
A full length 32" MFX Classic 340 spine/11.2 gpi with 100 gr brass insert = 454gr + 406gr alligator tip = 860gr total. let it dry over night and shot it... flew slightly nock left = weak. I was so excited lol I had not footed the shaft yet and wanted the final arrow to be and than adds some weight and at the 2.5" length to cover the internal brass some stiffness maybe. So I glued on 2.5" of 2016 aluminum shafting and waited till morning... The footing added 30 grains for 890 grains and it shoots straight! Ill shoot it for a few days before I recreate that shaft with the others I have and go practice aiming on some moving carp targets.
The nice surprise is point of aim at 5 yards is my normal sight picture. 10 is a minimal drop. 15 is getting farther down on the target lol
(https://i.imgur.com/pfpLlbf.jpg)
Interesting thread....keep us posted.
If your fletched shafts are flying nock right, I think that means the arrow is too weak. For some reason I remember reading somewhere that the stiff and weak indicators on a bareshaft are opposite on a fletched shaft. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Well I'm no expert but I started out making a bad flying arrow much worse, I was impressed really lol and now the fly really nice and straight. So I'm happy.
The 340 shafts have to be 32" long to weaken then into flying straight I believe.
Just playing around I did glue up a shorter 400 spine arrows to see if it's stiff enough to handle the tip weight. Haven't shot it yet though. Have to get some a few days of working done first :archer2:
If your fletched shafts are flying nock right, I think that means the arrow is too weak. For some reason I remember reading somewhere that the stiff and weak indicators on a bareshaft are opposite on a fletched shaft. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.
Hi Jim!
Sounds like you are going to have another fun trip.
(I'm still waiting for you to tell about stalking that nice bear in Colorado!)
BowMike
Ha Ha thanks Mike... We need to share a pot of coffee and a couple stacks of French toast. I have to draw the darn tag but I have a good chance and will know soon. I'm excited, been shooting every day.
Hopefully you will draw a tag!
You do need about 2 inches of arrow sticking out from the riser at full draw. This is for the arrow slide and line attachment.
:archer2:
Hmmmm
Yup, good point Benjy, didn't think of that originally. I draw 28" and have a full length arrow shooting well... so lots of room on the end of that.
:campfire:
Well as an update I should add that I didn't draw a alligator tag this year. I learned a lot getting gear together, making arrows, doing research and talking to those that know...
to be continued :readit:
Sorry to hear that. You should be a "shoe in" for a tag next year.
Sorry to hear you didn't draw a tag here in SC.
Which area were you going to be hunting? If you draw one next year maybe we could meet up.
Did you try to get a Florida gator tag?
Nope never applied to Florida Jim. I hear tell they do have some Alligators there too :)