The thread on tennis wrap got me to thinking. I'm not a fan of slick grips. I know that a smooth grip is less likely to lead to torque, but a nice leather grip feels so much better. Now the down side of that is that some grips just aren't shaped to accept leather well. What I have found works for me is a judiciously placed pad of the sand paper rough self stick stair step tread material. I place a couple of square inches of the stuff where the bow rests on the palm of my bow hand. Slip is eliminated. :coffee:
Bare wood for me!!!! No wrap, stippling, or checkering on any of my bows grips!!!!!
Bisch
I wrap all my bows with a rawhide lace so the bow wont "squirm" in my hand when drawn. Its just enough for grip, doesnt smear when hot and can be removed/replaced easily. I also shoot with a snug grip and have never had a problem with bow "torque". But that's just my way, YMMV..............
All of my bows are either bare wood or checkered grips. Doesn't seem to make much difference which one.
That would hurt my dish pan hands !
Quote from: Tim Finley on June 23, 2019, 11:00:57 AM
That would hurt my dish pan hands !
But you could sharpen a knife or broadhead right then and there lol.
It doesn't stay "sharp" for very long. Before I did this on this bow it was tough to hold well on a hot 3d course when my hands were all sweaty. Now it works great. :coffee:
If you hold the bow correctly....it makes zero difference.
So they say Terry, just never has worked for me that way. I think part of it is the confidence thing. And the more confidant you are the better you'll perform. :coffee:
I like my recurves bare and my longbows wrapped. I have tried grips wrapped and unwrapped on different bows over the years...but this is what suits me/works for me.
BAK....I have had a few 'slick' grips that weren't friendly here in the south 1st part of deer season due to the humidity....most all mine are wrapped.
No need in putting monsters in your head...don't let others either. My comments are what I have experienced in my back yard and the field....not what someone told me.....wraps were good for Howard Hill ...and we all know what he did.
That being said, I've never had a torque issue due to a wrap or golf glove...or a golf glove and a wrap....so I don't think you have anything to worry about. :campfire:
I like the beaver tail wraps.
I definitely don't care for checkering or stippling.
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One of the first shooting lessons I took was from Rod Jenkins, who is a big proponent of slick grip. He feels that the the bow hand should be placed on the bow handle where neither the bow hand nor the bow handle can slide, regardless of the amount of sweat there may be on your hand and the bow handle. This has to be a place where all the force is directed on something solid, like pushing against a wall, and is not depending on friction to hold it there, like the web between thumb and forefinger, and the meaty part of your hand on the thumb side of your lifeline. On the bow side, the surface has to be either flat or rounded in such a way that no significant forces are trying to push your hand down an angled slope. Rod was merciless about shaping his grips to achieve this, and I have become the same way.
I have a bow made by a well known bowyer where the force of drawing the bow was trying to make my hand slip off the bow handle to the left. I lived with this for years, thinking that he knew more than I did and I was going to ruin the bow. Finally I knew what I wanted, and didn't want to live with the handle the way it was anymore. So I sanded it so there is no inclination for the part of the bow handle that contacts my hand to slip sideways, and I am much happier with that bow. It might make it harder to sell, but between now and then I will enjoy it more.
The secret is to know why you're sanding something before you start in on it, and then just do it little by little until you get what you want.
I agree with that with a compound. Even my Primaltech longbow needs minimal handing to shoot. But it doesn't work for me with the standard high wrist grips like on most recurves. I have no control of the bow at that point and no consistency. Especially a slick grip like my PSA had. So I shoot with a thin leather glove to compensate.
If your grip is consistent and you can shoot consistently with it then do what works for you.
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Quote from: Bisch on June 23, 2019, 09:35:56 AM
Bare wood for me!!!! No wrap, stippling, or checkering on any of my bows grips!!!!!
Bisch
Slick for me. Mr. Jenkins class helped me understand a proper grip and I do not need/want friction. I feel it helps keep torque down.
I have no problems putting a rasp to a grip that just doesn't work for me.